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Discussion Starter #42
This is the relay i have but i couldn't match the you (Briano) put up. the top big one says 321 911 261 the number above the diagram it says 24.0400.00 and the very bottom set says L T 50 85 87 30 86 i cant seem to pick up on what any of those mean.
fast or slow glow plug relay.PNG
Thanks for the responses everyone!!!
 

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171 911 261E is the fast glow.
321911262 is the slow glow.

Google it
 

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The fast ones have a higher current draw than the slows, so the slows on a fast relay burn up, and the fasts on a slow never get up to temp.....
 

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Discussion Starter #47
so i am better off to have a slow relay and fast glows because on a cold day i can hotwire them until i get a fast relay. correct? the slow has 3 amps less but is that enough difference to make a big difference?
 

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You will burn things out, the two systems are incompatible. Yes you can hot-wire anything, but you have to be aware of the consequences. A GP that is overtly used can break apart and those bits can cause scoring of your piston walls or cause a valve not to close properly which can cause piston strike and totally ruin your day. I would suggest in doing things correctly, as I know from first hand experience that my Original GP's lasted well over 120K and about 11 years. I would of eventually had to replace them but I had a ca-ca moment.

I had a timing belt failure (new belt) and pushed a piston into the valves causing major CA-CA mushroomed pistons, and a hole in the head.....the replacement car (same mileage) that I bought to swap engines was converted to the 7 second GP's.... Sure it was an easy swap the relay out and relay in...But the 7 second ones lasted about a year to a year and a half, and the first time I had them all go out I couldn't start my car until I changed one of them (number4)....

I believe in keeping my rides stock to a point, some things even on my 93 Cabriolet I chose to retrograde as the "new improved" things were a detriment ie: (Farging Plastic Water Flanges and plastic parts in the cooling system.) I also found a work around for Fuel Pumps on the Digi's...

Some things when done correctly ie: (Relaying your headlights, Starters) improve the life of other things by shunting high voltage loads off of switches and places them on a higher rated relay. On a Rabbit swapping a ignition switch is easy-peasy, whereas on a 90 Cabriolet, you have an airbag and knee-bar to contend with making a 20 minute job in to a 2-3 hour one.

If it was me, I would assemble the correct parts for whichever you prefer.... However if you go the fast glows like I did you will want to have one or 2 spares in your boot, and the wrenches to take number 4 or number 3 out so you can get one the road....and not towed..
 

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Discussion Starter #49
okay i will purchase the fast relay cause the other one i had was also slow. I also have problems with the lights/wipers/blinkers/flashers and everything else that is on the steering Column and the hazards. the blinkers, hazards, windshield wipers and fan/heating don't work but pretty much everything else electrical like gauges brake and headlights work. i cleaned 2 grounds by the dash/firewall, one on the driver shock tower and the 2 main ones. is there another that i missed by the blower or something? because every so often i will have the hazard light in the cab turn on thinking the flashers are flashing.
 

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Check your Load Reduction Relay, as all of those are on the "X" circuit which is powered by the Load Reduction Relay via the ignition switch. It disables the Accessories circuits so that all power is directed to the Starter, and ignition circuits.

see:
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I found a x relay and installed it but i am afraid the x relay is bad. is there a way to test em or the wires that connect to the relay terminals? I think ill go poke around with a multi meter and see if i can find hot connections and such.
 

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That X relay is the most common one out there, You should be able to find it in any auto parts store. Good to be poking around with the meter though. The connections may need to cleaning.
 

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Check your Load Reduction Relay, as all of those are on the "X" circuit which is powered by the Load Reduction Relay via the ignition switch. It disables the Accessories circuits so that all power is directed to the Starter, and ignition circuits.

see:
I found a x relay and installed it but i am afraid the x relay is bad. is there a way to test em or the wires that connect to the relay terminals? I think ill go poke around with a multi meter and see if i can find hot connections and such.
The above discussion that I outlined has a quick test, but if you look at the Haynes, or the Bentley, and or Chris's pages you see how it is wired, if it isn't getting power then look at your ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
its getting power to the top connector so i am guessing my relay is bad because it has full volts there. What is the numbers on the x relay because i had a little bit of grease on mine and wiped it off and the numbers went off with it.
 

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That doesn't look right. You can just go to the wrecking yard and look for one, as they were in use on most MK1's and 2's up to 95..... The Cabbies till 93.

from page 4 of http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Relays.pdf

42823
 

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Discussion Starter #58
that has the same connection though it does look shorter. is there really nowhere to buy a simple part like that? i mean all the websites i have ordered parts from don't carry it although i have not called parts place cause they say they have stuff in stock that aren't online.
 

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It is such a common relay I can't believe Autozoned or OReallys doesn't have one in stock for like 5 bucks.

If you noticed in the chart that Briano put out there you can see that the same relay ins and outs are on a bunch of different ones so maybe you can pull one from your fuse panel and try it in the X Relay spot. Hint: see Horn #53

I have done that plenty of times.
 
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