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Discussion Starter #62
i did find another one that was connected to a terminal with no label but had the same prongs. i tried it and still none of the accessories were working. i was wondering if i had a goofy fuse panel because it had a relay for a fuel pump and i cant find a diagram for the fuse box online they all come up with the long ones. if you like i could go take a picture of the fuse panel.
 

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From Chris's pages, they are for a Westy, but give you an idea of what the X or load reduction relay does in relation to the ignition switch.... Check for voltage at pin 85 when the key is inserted and in the Run Position, as you can see at rest or ignition switch off, there isn't any power applied across the ignition switch to power the "X" circuits. Then at Run it is there, but not at start either....
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Got the car running!!!!!!! But there is absolutely no throttle control and the ip wont suck fuel. there was no air bubble in the clear line from the filter to the ip but slowly there was a bigger and bigger buble until it was all air.
 

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Give the fuel screw, the one on the back of the pump just above the distribution head a half a turn in. You may need to get the locknut free first. IP might just be adjusted kind of lean. You should get RPM increase when you twist the screw in. Once you get that try the throttle for response. If none try another 1/3 of a turn on the fuel screw.

If I back my fuel screw out too much and try for mileage rather than power then I loose the throttle response. I have to pull the cold start and engage the idle bump on these recent cold days or it does the same thing. Fussy bugger it is.
 

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leaks aren't good, but the better thing is to know which direction they are coming from. From the ip to the filter, then you have a return line issue from the tank or a leaking seal in the ip. The Crush washers on the banjo fittings are buggers if you reuse them and don't take the time to re-annul them. That is sand all the burs and things, then polish them up to bright and shiny..... Hold them over a open flame till they change hue or color.... then wipe them off and you are free to use them again and get a good seal. Napa used to sell those things fairly cheap.....which is where I used to buy mine years ago.

If you have questions on seals then you can buy a seal kit or take your ip off the car and take it to a Diesel Injection shop and have it rebuilt, it will be about 60 for the kit and a couple of hours to have it rebuilt....
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Well i replaced the ip with the leaky one but i put a very thin layer of rtv on the cold start seal and the one on the other bottom middle side. it ran great after i tuned the mixture and purged it etc. time will tell if it still leaks but after i had it running i tried to drive it and stupidly let go of the clutch at idle and it died. then the battery was toast and it would barely turn over.
Kinda like that horrible wa wa wa wa sound. i didn't think that these engines sucked electricity and no lights were on except the seatbelt light.i had a loose protector thing for the alternator which was positively charged and it came in to contact with a grounded piece of metal and actually melted it(thin metal). Could that toast or discharge a battery?

That's the only thing i think could discharge a battery so fast. Would my battery be toast?(not going to work anymore)
 

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if the battery light was on as it wasn't idling fast enough then your battery wasn't being charged.
Yes a direct short can take a battery out.
I would take the battery and have it tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
yeah i am wondering about that because when hooked up to a charger at 10 amp charge rate it will start no problem but when i remove the starter and try to start it it can barely turn over. but i pulled it out of a warm garage and it is -20 out right now so i was thinking maybe it is so cold that all batteries slow down good or bad.
 

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Batteries don't go south that fast in cold weather.....I would do these checks.
What are the conditions of your grounds, as good clean grounds to the frame and engine are essential.
2. how old is your battery?
3. have you had your alternator checked?

Battery age is a common issue now-a-days, not like the interstate battery that I bought for my diesel bunny years ago that I had to modify my radiator shroud to get it to fit as it needed to be hammered in about 1 inch so the battery would fit, but then again I went from 660cca to 1200cca, and it was about 2 inches longer.... But then again that 5 year battery lasted about 10 years...and never failed me.

Funny thing is I used to Jump start the Chevrolet/Oldsmobile 2 battery Diesels all the time during cold weather,,,,,for guys that I worked with.... They said naw that puny thing won't start...until I popped the hood and they saw my battery... I joked with them that I could start my car and theirs at the same time if I wanted.....
 

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Discussion Starter #73
well i had the battery on a charger but we are now getting freezing rain and then snow so i didn't want the charger to get harmed so i brought it back inside. will resume charging when the weathers not against me. And i thought i heard somewhere that its not good for batteries to get charged when they are cold but maybe i am wrong.
 

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Not cold, but if they are very low on charge, then the battery can freeze (the ph level is more water than acidic). When that happens then if you charge the battery they can explode... Seen it happen.

About every three years on my batteries I would carefully pour out the fluids, Carefully flush the batteries then with about 2 boxes of baking soda neutralize the removed acid. Carefully I would use fresh Battery Acid and refill the battery....But that was back in the day when I was young..... I feel real lucky now if I get 4 years out of a 3yr OEM battery, and my last one went for almost 7 years. Now with that said you can remove the battery from your car and place it on a wood plank or board on the floor inside a safe area and trickle charge it. If it is indoors it can't freeze, and in a few hours it is good to go. We used to do this on farm equipment in the Winter, and those batteries were huge......
 

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The saga continues. Have had many incidents like this one where you start on problem A and it turns into several different ones almost to the point where you forget what it was in the first place.

Give the battery a good warm overnight charge and try again, Plan A.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
are diesels supposed to start in - degree weather? because after a good warm charge it turns over great but it wont fire up. it smells like burnt diesel so it must be trying but it wont run. i have the cold start pulled and never changed anything from the time it ran. warm air in the intake help? i was thinking hair dryer on hot setting
 

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1. Check your Battery to frame to engine ground, if it hasn't been replaced think on doing it.
2. Verify that at least one of your GP's are working by removing the number 4 plug, and holding it with a pair of pliers short it to the battery. If it doesn't get red hot in 7-12 seconds, then it is bad, and 3 bad plugs and you will have issues with getting it to start. Also check the fuse on the firewall, I had one crack from vibration once, and used a LARGE Paper Clip to get my car started, till I could get it to a parts place to get a new fuse, I bought 4 and kept them in my owners manual.... Never had to replace another....in 20 years.
3. If you have a engine block heater, then plug it in. When my Rabbit was new in 81, I plugged mine in. The only time it failed to start was because I bought the "VW" anti-fuel gel, and had a tank full of gelled fuel.. 1 gallon of Regular gas in my tank and a couple of shakes of the rabbit to mix and it fired right up.
4. Charging the battery and ignoring the rest can cause issues.

Try some of those and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I just replaced 2 main grounds and new glow plugs and have ad it plugged it in. The thing i was worried about was gelled fuel but i overdosed it with antigel so i hoped it wouldn't gell up. i have had to hotwire the gps because the new fast relay is not here yet. could i have wrecked the gps from hot wiring it? i will go check the 4 gp soon.
 

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Only if you kept them on longer than about 20 seconds or such....
I have heard that a weak starter may not spin the engine fast enough when cold to get combustion started, so that could be an issue as well...(forgot about that one).


In the back of my 81 Diesel Owners Manual there was a note that said:

"If in the event that Winterized Diesel #2 isn't available, you may use 2 gallons of regular gas to 8 gallons of Diesel."

After the first gellied tank I had, I started doing the 2 gallons to 8 ratio, and never had gelled fuel again.
So all that expensive "Anti-Gel" can be negated with using 2 pumps at the filling station. :) . I used this ratio for the next 19 years of ownership..when I was in the GWN (Great White North), and when I was living in Omaha, Ne in the 90's They said it may go in the teens, so I ran to the gas station in 55 degree weather the day before, and used 2 gallons of regular and topped the tank off with Diesel. I parked the car in front of the house and plugged it in.... The next morning I work at 6:00 to 3 feet of snow, -20, windchill was -70....The car started just fine, the only issue that I had was it got so cold that the tires were Frozen to the pavement... Once I got that free I drove to work.... :) Did I mention that it was Halloween, and they canceled it for about 10 days till it broke 30 degrees. That was when the car was about 11 years old and 150K miles on the original glow plugs (wait forever type). My little bunny was in the gwn for about 7 years, I have since moved south.... So winter lasts from mid Jan-Feb here...
 
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