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Discussion Starter #81
okay i might try a little gas in there because its cold out? ill make sure the starter sounds like it did when i first started the car. That's also crazy that it started in -20 weather. sadly we get that around pembina a lot. do you think it wise to make it a little richer for cold winter days? Also i accidentally left the long gp relay connected when i first started it so would that fry the gps?
 

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I know they are incompatible, but I don't know the repercussions of that swap only that the fast glow relay will usually burn out the slow glows.
If you pull out the CS knob that should suffice to increase the ip timing by 5 or 6 degrees.
 

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I always make a point to pull out the Cold Start knob just before shutting off the engine. That way it is all set to go when all is cold and I am half asleep at the wheel. Sometimes the knob needs the rotation of the pump to make it come out full stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
alright so success and no success. I got it running for about 10 min. then the battery died and the fuel shut off. so i though the alt was not working. charged and then started engine again.
the alternator is giving charge but it is obviously not making it to the battery. i will check that later. Now i just in the time that it ran the second time i just left the charger charging the battery. then the battery terminals MELTED!!!

I cannot figure out how in the world that could happen. To much discharge or recharge? And the terminals are not round because i don't have the technically right battery. that said i have to vise grip the cables to the terminals so it doesn't have nearly as much contact area. It only happened while i ran it without the alternator connector(3 in connected to alternator) connected. Anything helps its not like i can make it worse.
 

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They melted because they were HOTP, the electrical connectivity of the connections wasn't clean and neat so there was electrolysis occuring.

Suspect the Battery, and if your alternator was over charging the battery that could also happen.

For grins, I would take the alternator out and have it tested.
Replace your battery cables Frame to engine, and frame to battery for the ground.
I would splice in a new cable from the Positive to the Alternator.
I would also test the battery out of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Okay so make sure i have good clean contacts. the alt. is charging at 13-14 volts witch is good if you ask me. i would consider testing batt and alternator but our closest auto parts store is a hour away and we go there once a month. Is electrolysis making volts have to jump from the terminal to the cable or too much current draw in one spot. i do have new ground wires.
 

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You have a bad connection on the battery terminal. That is causing the current (flow) to be at one itty bitty spot instead of the whole connection. When this happens then there is a Overheating that occurs, Similar to running too high of a device on a tiny power cord, they get hot.

You stated:

And the terminals are not round because i don't have the technically right battery. that said i have to vise grip the cables to the terminals so it doesn't have nearly as much contact area.
That is the issue probably....
 

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Discussion Starter #89
So i got the wrong relay part so ordered from a different website that hopefully has the right parts. I cant get it to start by hot wiring the gps and preheating the air going into the engine. cold start cable pulled and try use the throttle to get it to start. My battery is giving up the ghost slowly but so far it still works for the first 15 seconds of cranking.
 

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You need a much better battery! 15 seconds is way too short for a hard to start diesel in cold weather with potential GP disfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Well my interstate wont charge so i was going to dump and refill acid but i really don't know how to do that. Other that dump acid into container then cover with baking soda and chuck it in the garbage and then refill with acid. I don't know how much to put in or were the max level is.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
well i got her running. It was awesome and it ran fine until i revved it up and then let it go back to idle. then the cam decided it was going to break and that is what it did. it broke on the first cylinder(closest to pulley) and on the second lobe. Do any of you know where to buy a new cam and if there is a way i can make this not happen again? also i am wondering if i had my belt to loose.
 

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I would more think of the belt being too tight and lack of lubrication. I would also mow worry about valve strike on the piston. Also the oil not having enough zinc content as well.
 

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if that is a crack in the Number 1 journal? I think you are going to be looking at a new head or at least removing the head to verify integrity.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Yes it is broken and i will need another cap or 2. do you know where to find one?

Euro Caddy (pick up) Econo Camshaft K-grind Solid Lifter [109 07K] - $50.00 : Techtonics Tuning, VW and Audi Performance Tuning and Repair Parts

This cam specs it to be for a mk1 but i am pretty sure it has the wrong sprocket connecter.


This one says its for tdi only engines but has the proper sproket connection.
 

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I would be looking for a used head and avoid any part of this one. What would cause that to happen? Pull the head and see what the valves look like. Pistons might be hammered too so you might be looking there for damage as well as the rods.

Just an ugly deal all the way down the stroke. Yucka dew.
 

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I would be looking for a used head and avoid any part of this one. What would cause that to happen? Pull the head and see what the valves look like. Pistons might be hammered too so you might be looking there for damage as well as the rods.

Just an ugly deal all the way down the stroke. Yucka dew.
X2, as I said previous, the only way to be sure of all the damage is to pull your head and Verify....
I have had the proverbial slipped Timing belt whilst driving. The Carnage that it wrought was devastating.
This happened all previous to the Interweb, at 130K on my engine...

Valve strike on the number 2 and 3 Cylinders broke the valve off, combustion Welded it to the piston at an angle on number 2 cylinder (forget which one it was exhaust or intake) which eventually punched a hole in the head that took out the other valve and then the number 3 cylinder followed suit and basically all 4 of the pistons got Mushroomed and swedged to the Cylinders. When I tried to spin the engine by hand I couldn't move the crank at all with the head off.

Fortunately for me a Guy I worked with sold me his Diesel bunny with the same mileage and I did a engine/tranny swap. I drove that engine for another 200K miles, and the only issue that I had with his engine was that every 6 months or so the head gasket failed.... Speed forward and I know now that it was because of the bite of the head bolts and how they can loosen.... If I had bought a set of ARP racing studs to use instead of new bolts every time, I wouldn't of had to change the Gasket so often.... But alas what did we do before the interweb and forums..... I will say that I got really really good at head gasket changes and could do it on a diesel bunny in under 3 hours start to finish.... I also learned a lesson about after market timing belts and using genuine VW.....Which destroyed my engine as the teeth on the new belt separated and caused the time slip destroying the engine.

I hate to say suck it up, but you have to know that the Diesel is an interference engine that is the Pistons Travel is taller than the cylinder and goes in to the head, so that the Valves can strike them...Unlike the 1.8 and or Gassers engines (non-16v) which are non-interference engines where valve strike can't occur.

Don't source any parts until you know the total damage as you are probably wasting time and monies...
 
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