Hi, It could be the transmission? you could try justanswers.com free 7 day trial and there are lots of VW mechanics there that could help. Did they code the car at the dealer? any auto parts store should be able to do that at no charge.
2007 Rabbit No acceleration
I just joined this club, and hope someone has experienced, or have knowledge of the same problem as I have with my 2007 Rabbit.
The local VW dealership is not able to pinpoint the problem, and by process of elimination the cost could easily be more than the value of the car.
Cold or warm, when attempting to accelerate it will stay at idle.
Shifting gears gently, in fifth I will be doing 30 miles per hour.
After sometimes 2 sometimes 5 minutes it will give 3 long beeps then suddenly accelerate, and everything is OK.
It may run fine the rest of the day, or it may repeat the problem if it is shut off and started later in the day.
The dealer diagnosed that the throttle body needed cleaning, and it needed an O2 sensor.
Throttle body was cleaned, but although it may need an O2 sensor, the sensor does not work intermittent, and would therefore not cause this problem..
Following the dealer's suggestion the engine temperature sensor (coolant) was changed.
The problem is still there.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I will keep checking this site, but if it is allowed I can be contacted directly.
I thank you in advance.
John Jensen
905-484-3915
The local VW dealership is not able to pinpoint the problem, and by process of elimination the cost could easily be more than the value of the car.
Cold or warm, when attempting to accelerate it will stay at idle.
Shifting gears gently, in fifth I will be doing 30 miles per hour.
After sometimes 2 sometimes 5 minutes it will give 3 long beeps then suddenly accelerate, and everything is OK.
It may run fine the rest of the day, or it may repeat the problem if it is shut off and started later in the day.
The dealer diagnosed that the throttle body needed cleaning, and it needed an O2 sensor.
Throttle body was cleaned, but although it may need an O2 sensor, the sensor does not work intermittent, and would therefore not cause this problem..
Following the dealer's suggestion the engine temperature sensor (coolant) was changed.
The problem is still there.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I will keep checking this site, but if it is allowed I can be contacted directly.
I thank you in advance.
John Jensen
905-484-3915
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Electrical Gremlins on VW's is a thing that all Dubs in all years have. If Lord Lucas is the Lord of Darkness, the BOSCH is surely the Prince.
One of the biggest Bains of these critters is grounding issues with the main battery to frame and frame to engine connections. Keeping the battery post clean and tight is only half the battle, the other ends of the cable where it attaches to the Frame and from the frame contact point to the engine/transmission is also a must.
If you haven't cleaned your Battery cables or replaced them with new that is a thing that you may need placing attention to as yours are over 10 years old and haven't probably been given a second thought.
Service Techs in the old days, as well as now rely more on the codes and aren't give a good education on electrics in general. So they see a code look it up, and only look at the component that is being called out for. I have been snaked on one of my cars for a 0131 fault which was bank 1 sensor 1 on the o2 sensor. I replaced it and all was well for a few months until it happened again, and again and again.. It was when I finally broke out the book and decided instead of replacing the front sensor (o2) that I would do both the front and the rear the light has stayed off as it was the rear one that was the issue and not the front one.
Trannys that are shifting funny are now being controlled my electric valves and sensors that the old timey ones didn't use, and will go flakey or the connectors get oil soaked and become intermittent, which not a lot of Techs take care of when replacing a component, they forget to check the connector. Since the component or sensor in question may try using a different path to ground for the controller than the one that was designd to use, this is where the main ground point of the system is critical for car sanity.
Examples that I have seen over the years:
My battery cables looked great clean shiny, good connections, but occasionally if the air temp was 50 degrees and it was very damp or raining my car wouldn't start. I rebuilt the Distributor as well as put new plugs and wires in, but the issue would persist and stranded my wife on more than one occasion.... Well I needed to move my car, and it wouldn't start, I couldn't get it to go to save my soul. I got really peaved and flung my hands in disgust and the combo wrench in my cold wet greasy hands flew out and fell across the batteries negative post and Grounded to the frame, I saw it SPARK.... So I took the main Battery post frame connection off the battery and then the frame and peeling back the sheath, it was a nice and pretty Green and white covered cable as it was corroded beyond all doubt and the cause of my intermittent issue. Once I replaced the battery to frame and frame to engine cable, the car ran great. (to get around this I ran a Jumper wire from the battery post to a bolt on the frame), and drove the car to the parts store to get new ground cables.
I have seen water coolers and coffee pots when wired wrong to the a/c box when turned on or brewing coffee cause a million dollar computer system to power cycle in the middle of processing due to a ground fault.
I have seen flaky o2 sensors cause a engine to run enriched, or not run nice at all. I have seen clutch /speedo cables being used to power the Starter solenoid, and folks wonder why the cluster is melting in front of them or that the clutch cable breaks because it is being welded to the internal sheath and won't work or is stuck in one position or another. I have seen the Hydraulic lines on clutches conducting current as well causing the seals to melt.
I have seen ECU's get fried when you run a starter because it is using a return path of a sensor to power the starter solenoid (frying the heck out of the ECU) causing the car to not start, or run really really ragged.
Doing a parasitic test, or a voltage drop test on your cables as a quick way to diagnose issues with flaky electrical happenings.
I am not saying that your Tech is lacking in Electrical education as in the past, but they get too ingrained in to looking at the codes and forgetting about the other things connected electrically to them to accurately repair your system.
my 2 cents.
One of the biggest Bains of these critters is grounding issues with the main battery to frame and frame to engine connections. Keeping the battery post clean and tight is only half the battle, the other ends of the cable where it attaches to the Frame and from the frame contact point to the engine/transmission is also a must.
If you haven't cleaned your Battery cables or replaced them with new that is a thing that you may need placing attention to as yours are over 10 years old and haven't probably been given a second thought.
Service Techs in the old days, as well as now rely more on the codes and aren't give a good education on electrics in general. So they see a code look it up, and only look at the component that is being called out for. I have been snaked on one of my cars for a 0131 fault which was bank 1 sensor 1 on the o2 sensor. I replaced it and all was well for a few months until it happened again, and again and again.. It was when I finally broke out the book and decided instead of replacing the front sensor (o2) that I would do both the front and the rear the light has stayed off as it was the rear one that was the issue and not the front one.
Trannys that are shifting funny are now being controlled my electric valves and sensors that the old timey ones didn't use, and will go flakey or the connectors get oil soaked and become intermittent, which not a lot of Techs take care of when replacing a component, they forget to check the connector. Since the component or sensor in question may try using a different path to ground for the controller than the one that was designd to use, this is where the main ground point of the system is critical for car sanity.
Examples that I have seen over the years:
My battery cables looked great clean shiny, good connections, but occasionally if the air temp was 50 degrees and it was very damp or raining my car wouldn't start. I rebuilt the Distributor as well as put new plugs and wires in, but the issue would persist and stranded my wife on more than one occasion.... Well I needed to move my car, and it wouldn't start, I couldn't get it to go to save my soul. I got really peaved and flung my hands in disgust and the combo wrench in my cold wet greasy hands flew out and fell across the batteries negative post and Grounded to the frame, I saw it SPARK.... So I took the main Battery post frame connection off the battery and then the frame and peeling back the sheath, it was a nice and pretty Green and white covered cable as it was corroded beyond all doubt and the cause of my intermittent issue. Once I replaced the battery to frame and frame to engine cable, the car ran great. (to get around this I ran a Jumper wire from the battery post to a bolt on the frame), and drove the car to the parts store to get new ground cables.
I have seen water coolers and coffee pots when wired wrong to the a/c box when turned on or brewing coffee cause a million dollar computer system to power cycle in the middle of processing due to a ground fault.
I have seen flaky o2 sensors cause a engine to run enriched, or not run nice at all. I have seen clutch /speedo cables being used to power the Starter solenoid, and folks wonder why the cluster is melting in front of them or that the clutch cable breaks because it is being welded to the internal sheath and won't work or is stuck in one position or another. I have seen the Hydraulic lines on clutches conducting current as well causing the seals to melt.
I have seen ECU's get fried when you run a starter because it is using a return path of a sensor to power the starter solenoid (frying the heck out of the ECU) causing the car to not start, or run really really ragged.
Doing a parasitic test, or a voltage drop test on your cables as a quick way to diagnose issues with flaky electrical happenings.
I am not saying that your Tech is lacking in Electrical education as in the past, but they get too ingrained in to looking at the codes and forgetting about the other things connected electrically to them to accurately repair your system.
my 2 cents.
My mechanic said the following
The three beeps are big clue. Something is attempting to alert the driver. Interrogating the modules one by one while it is happening may lead to solving. If "hill hold" is staying engaged, this may be the alert. I would also look at brake disc temperatures after a quick drive. I normally allow for 220*F as a spec...if they are reaching 300*F...possible the ABS is activated for some unknown reason. Lastly...if the vehicle has had any of the modules coded by using an aftermarket obd dongle...and that coding is incorrect for the car or country the car is in...this is a problem we see more often as of late due to people attempting to "add" features that they do not truly understand how they work.
The three beeps are big clue. Something is attempting to alert the driver. Interrogating the modules one by one while it is happening may lead to solving. If "hill hold" is staying engaged, this may be the alert. I would also look at brake disc temperatures after a quick drive. I normally allow for 220*F as a spec...if they are reaching 300*F...possible the ABS is activated for some unknown reason. Lastly...if the vehicle has had any of the modules coded by using an aftermarket obd dongle...and that coding is incorrect for the car or country the car is in...this is a problem we see more often as of late due to people attempting to "add" features that they do not truly understand how they work.
Hello it’s my first time posting I usually just linger and lurk! I’ll give my 2 cents and where I would look first. It would be the throttle body itself and not the plate. Is it consistently opening upon pedal press? I have dealt with drive by wire systems in which the throttle body intermittently works and puts the vehicle into limp mode. Where when you press the pedal you don’t go but can coast. I would run a test on it if it’s not consistently opening. Such as KOEO take off the intake and have a friend look at the tb plate. It should go to WoT when fully pressed. You can also try it with KOER, and see if the TB is consistently opening. If it’s not check the connector followed by the wiring to make sure you are getting power. Then move onto testing the tb itself.
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have you had the fuel filter replaced?I just joined this club, and hope someone has experienced, or have knowledge of the same problem as I have with my 2007 Rabbit.
The local VW dealership is not able to pinpoint the problem, and by process of elimination the cost could easily be more than the value of the car.
Cold or warm, when attempting to accelerate it will stay at idle.
Shifting gears gently, in fifth I will be doing 30 miles per hour.
After sometimes 2 sometimes 5 minutes it will give 3 beeps then suddenly accelerate, and everything is OK.
It may run fine the rest of the day, or it may repeat the problem if it is shut off and started later in the day.
The dealer diagnosed that the throttle body needed cleaning, and it needed an O2 sensor.
Throttle body was cleaned, but although it may need an O2 sensor, the sensor does not work intermittent, and would therefore not cause this problem..
Following the dealer's suggestion the engine temperature sensor (coolant) was changed.
The problem is still there.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I will keep checking this site, but if it is allowed I can be contacted directly.
I thank you in advance.
John Jensen
905-484-3915
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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