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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Roger Wilco. Gotta say, I'm not going to have this happen
on a regular basis. Car will be back on the block the next
time I can't trust it. I just sold a beautiful 1958 Met that
was 'less than dependable'. I'm frustrated right now and
don't want to spend my time on the side of the road
scratching my head.
I see the VW guys tomorrow and will report back, thumbs up
....or down

Thom
 

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Probably something simple. I was just starting to drive when that car was new. People were buying them because they were dependable. Or seemed so compared to American cars at the time. Should be able to get yours straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I agree it's usually something simple. My problem is that I'm just so done doing all the things I've done in my long,
(some claim misspent) life, to try to make cars dependable when they perhaps just aren't. I'll give it the old college
try tomorrow with the VW place and will try to settle down a bit. I really like driving this go-kart but I will no longer be
found sitting by the side of the road, adjusting tappets and such. (Had around 20 different examples of British metal...
been there, done that...). Thanks for your responses. I will really hope that I DON'T fall out of love with 'Ringo'.
(yes, we've already named it).

Thom
 

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I drove an MGA for many years. Always carried a large crescent wrench to bang on one of the carburetors when float stuck. Part of the charm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
That brings back memories! Yeah, my MGA was
an 'adventure'. Love those SUs when they work well!
 

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Ha! Old bugs did not even have a gas gauge, there was a lever that flips and it should have been in one position, when you ran dry, you flipped it and had about another 1/2 gallon available. Can't remember how many times folks forget this and leave it in the emergency fuel position, which then runs the tank completely dry.

Checking the float levels is a good idea, also the fuel pump (the rubberized diaphragm gets brittle so it does not give much pressure, also can crack, also the fuel filter (you do have an inline fuel filter I hope).

Good luck.
 

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Ha! Old bugs did not even have a gas gauge, there was a lever that flips and it should have been in one position, when you ran dry, you flipped it and had about another 1/2 gallon available. Can't remember how many times folks forget this and leave it in the emergency fuel position, which then runs the tank completely dry.

Checking the float levels is a good idea, also the fuel pump (the rubberized diaphragm gets brittle so it does not give much pressure, also can crack, also the fuel filter (you do have an inline fuel filter I hope).

Good luck.
One more memory, the little lever that actuates the pump off the cam is pressed metal sheeting. They crack or wear out after many years of use, had that on one of the bugs I worked on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Have you checked for spark when it dies? May be coil is acting up when hot.
Here's what I found: A while back I'd gotten a new 'Chinese Solex' carb to
replace the EMPI 'new carb'. THAT one didn't work that well either, so my
VW shop said the jetting was wrong. They changed that and it ran better
....but still not 'perfect... back and forth for a month, then I had the incident
up the hill that started this whole thread. I finally took the top of the carb off
and found what appears to be the reason for ALL of the recent idling, dying,
intermediate trouble I've whined about. The experts at my beloved 'VW Experts'
left a 'Solex' main jet BOUNCING AROUND THE FLOAT BOWL to cause what
appears to have been the on again, off again trouble. They of course, deny it.
What ya gonna do? I still like them but will FOREVER CHECK THEIR WORK!

Thanks all, for the kind helpful hints. I appreciate that.

Thom
 

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I was pretty hot when I went back. We had a few seconds of toe to toe
'iffy negotiations' but we got over it. They're trying to do the best they can,
they just screwed up this time and i let them know that.

Thom
So the jet was getting caught under the float?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Yes, I now believe that it was bouncing around freely, giving me the unreliable idle that so plagued me
and even affecting the tune. It would make sense because by design, that space isn't designed to have
a 2mm cube randomly migrating around to get stuck for a few seconds (minutes?). Knocking on my
blockhead right now but it seems to idle and run better than ever. Ever hopeful.
 

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If it was under the float near the pivot point it would likely hold float up as though bowl was full. And the mechanics that replaced jets think someone else left a jet inside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I agree and the whole problem would have presented as a 'moving target' so to speak. Yes, my mechanic, true to human nature,
was 'completely baffled' about how that could have happened. He even said that they never were inside the carburetor....my bills
of course say differently. I would normally write these people off but I believe it was just a bad day and I am giving them 1 free pass
One.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
This is a shout out to the group, sorry if it's on the wrong section, I'll fix that if so:

I need a couple `1967 exterior door handles with locks and a single key (and the
lockable engine cover handle, too?) I think my local locksmith wants to retire
from re-keying mine.

Also having no luck finding the rubber bushings that go top and bottom on the vertical
rear stabilizer. It's the one that goes across the car.

Thanks in advance.

Thom

PS: car still seems to run well after removing the 'extra jet' in the float bowl.
 
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