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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
81 truck w/ early 1.6D NA + 5sp
Like the title says. My transmission is jammed into 5th & doesn't seem to want to come out of it.

My linkage has a good amount of slop & needs to be changed but other than Reverse occasionally difficult to get into (can take a few attempts) & 2nd on occasion doesn't always stick from lack of proper throw, it's worked.
Now a few months back...as noisy as these things can be, I was in 4th & at about 50mph I went to put it in 5th and missed it. Instead dropping into 3rd. It decelerated hard while revs aimed somewhere near the red no doubt & it also made the shifter move a bit more than it should. It took a bunch of fidgeting but I got it free. Now today was supposed to be the last day of driving it for awhile to deal with some other goings-on & was going to also finally take care of the linkage.
Was a mile from work & went to make the turn off the highway...shifter locked up & wouldn't budge. After work I checked the linkage for binding (the thumb piece with the ball has play & the ball is flat on 2 sides) & found none. Disconnected the rod from the trans lever to try operating manually. Transmission is jammed solid. FORTUNATELY I could take off in 5th but it required more half clutching than I'd like & the couple stop lights despite taking back streets to avoid the rest required riding the clutch. All parked on the work slab as originally planned but not with the extra work.

Thoughts?
I forget what trans-code it is exactly but it's one of the desirable ones & hopefully there are no bent shift forks. Best case maybe the speedo gear I lost down inside...& could only recover half of...floated into the wrong place?

Current motor is using coolant & has started to pressurize the coolant tank but doesn't overheat. I have a good late-1.6D mated to another 5sp in a project truck that could go in it's place. It needs to come out anyway so a TD can be dropped in the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Far side of the country. Way over in AZ. So would have to ship. How much you asking for it + cost to send it to 85325? Won't much different than a bare block weight-wise.

What is the hex headed bit the size of a fat thumb sitting right over where the shift rod goes in? On the off chance it's culprit.

Would like to think this one may be salvageable since it's one of the GOOD ~25% OD 5 speeds. At the earliest opportunity it will come apart to see.
Have another trans (also 5sp) that is lower geared though I think...would have to pull the stamp code to be sure that might become a part donor. OR it becomes the recipient from the other (maybe).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Everything is dropped out. Engine//trans are split to make handling a little easier. Got the other whole unit pulled & standing by. Only thing holding it back from direct install is replacement mount bushings. I THOUGHT it was a later 1.6 but since it lacks an oil baffle I was able to get a peek through the oil fill & could just make out the hex sockets. Nuts. Was hoping it was a later. COULD still go with the motor no longer mated to the stuck trans & just get new HG as I believe I've found the culprit for coolant consumption. That infamous driver's front corner.

On the off chance of being able to salvage the FF trans that stuck on me I checked the single spare I have which is a 2H which makes 5th 0.97:1. Being lower geared I had a mind for a project for it later but option is there to be a donor if VW 020 5 speed Hard parts or some other site lacks what I'll need.

Time for another transmission. Where are you located? I have an 82 diesel transmission sitting in Massachusetts with nothing to put it in
I'm in AZ though. Would have to be shipped. I AM interested.
 

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Honestly if you have another transmission in hand use that one. The price to ship large items via freight has increased and the shipping companies tend to damage large items in transit
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No big deal. Still want to have a good backup on hand. Got a good later 1.6 w/ hyd heads that has low comp & have yet to open up...got it as an extra freebie when I drove 3hrs to go after a $50 like-new 1.6 head...might just need a fresh set of STD rings. Pair it to another trans & good to go when needed.

Through the FB group BurnAllTheMk1s I found a guy who has an assortment out of Stanton CA. Asking $60 for the 4sp & 100 for the 5s (all FF & FN). But it's about 4-1/2hrs away so will be meeting him half way...I'd rather drive as little as possible into the depths of CA as possible...even if I could make the round trip in my beater 2 door Rabbit on <$30 (6-7 gallons @ local prices & avoid ever touching the highway robbery that is CA pump price @ ~$5/gal. Initially this is going to double the price of a 5sp but may be able to bring it down a little. ESPECIALLY if I can have the truck ready in time. From what I've seen some other places selling our transmissions for as much as $400...so 100 is a steal...the other 80-100 cover the "convenience" charges. I go after it this Sunday.

Got the other motor//trans finally bolted into place yesterday...at long last. Just some wiring to finish hooking up & do a block flush before installing the radiator. Have to clean out the CV flanges of grime (should have done that when it was out), then make the exhaust work. This motor takes the bowl-style connection which I have so it's just cutting out the necessary chunk from the original truck down pipe then getting them connected.
 

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Honestly if you have another transmission in hand use that one. The price to ship large items via freight has increased and the shipping companies tend to damage large items in transit
I second that, since I work for a national package delivery company who shall remain nameless and you wouldn't believe how heavier packages are treated. Sometimes they're pushed off conveyors when someone doesn't have help to move it. Other times, they're just pushed under the belt and get ignored for days because no one wants to pick them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I've come to the conclusion that this truck...<image is from 2 yrs ago after getting it towed to a friends>
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JUST LOVES MOTORS!
The original...before I got it...had a blown motor. The replacement 1.5 in it when I got it had NO compression & was either still in the process of the engine bay being put back together or apart...IDK.
FF to a couple weeks ago the motor I had to put in it ran fine other than it sucked coolant & wept oil from the infamous driver's front corner (found this out after disassembling) but otherwise ran fine aside from the trans locking into 5th.
Finally completed installing the motor//trans assy I had on hand...got it installed. Finally got to try it yesterday...ran like $#@&. Barely got it to start using the in-bed tank which has a lift pump for VO...which was empty so poured in a couple gallons of diesel. Ran VERY rough even w/ throttle & even then died. Was a royal PITA despite priming assist. BTW this motor I KNOW FOR A FACT ran! It was installed in a project truck (due to receive a running TD from a Jetta anyway). Ran fine...just didn't have exhaust downpipe...but that was about 2 yrs ago when it was last run. On the off chance the IP was off a tooth after putting on a new TB (I hand cranked it to check for binding...there was none) I reset everything. BRRRRRTTTTT!!!!! Like an *&#@ing idiot I left the IP pin in. No amount of hand resetting & cranking this time could avoid binding. Spent from about 6pm to 10:30p last night trying it. No luck. NOTE: I'm certain each of us has had to have made at least one dumbass move on our precious diesels before. Lessons to NEVER do (that mistake) again.

This morning tried again...same result. Best I can get is 1-1/2 cranks by hand which tells me everything SHOULD be working. BUT did manage to narrow it down to #2 intake which refuses to open.

Just finished pulling the head. STILL won't crank...jams up every time #2 Int is reached. Now it's possible the attempted crank with the IP pin in place kept the cam locked up too so the piston accelerated into the stationary valve & jammed it. Will have to disassemble to find out what exactly.
NOTE 2: I've had almost-worse happen before with the prior motor (locked up trans one) early on when a makeshift rope belt came undone & the end got bound up in the TB of the idling motor...locked it up good but it reset w/o problems. It was a test run after purchase & only had the crank//WP pulley & no lower TB cover.

But with the head off...I've discovered another problem in cyl #1. Damage that is CANNOT be associated with any valve//piston collision but looks more like something that had entered the cylinder.
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I have been hand cranking the motor & using a piece of bailing wire through the pre-chamber to make sure I was re-establishing TDC...no way a piece of wire would this with only hand pressure.

So I SUPPOSE I can take SOME comfort...after a fashion...in that there was another issue going on. The motor had no down pipe & the intake was in place along with the air filter & cover but mice had gotten to the element. Didn't find anything in the intake manifold but that doesn't mean much even though I used a new element before the 1st crank of the engine after install.

SOOOOOOOO!!!!! OUT IT COMES AGAIN!!! ROUND 3!!!!!

I have another early 1.6 runner that came on a test stand made out of a transmission bell mounted to a cart. But also have another...late 1.6 NA w/ hyd head whose only problem is low compression & currently doesn't have an IP...it was pulled by the PO. Will pop it apart & check the bores. Might just need a new set of STD rings. For the IP I'll use the one from the motor I just put in OR from the previous runner now divorced. OR just put a new HG on the one I pulled (which IS! a runner...despite having to take off in 5th) in the 1st place of this mess.

BTW how to tell what IP is for the early or late 1.6D? I've also noticed a slight difference in block casting as some have a raised dimple between the 1 & 6 on the block while another has just 1 6 & no dimple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll likely go ahead then with the pump from the motor I just put in then had to pull back out. STILL will go ahead & put a new HG on the motor previously mated to the locked up trans however. That way I have a good backup that's proven & leave it's IP in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This thing is far from done with me. Got the motor that will be going in on a stand. FIRSTLY whomever worked on this last was at least as strong as me & didn't give 2-^%$#@ about how they torqued things...had to use a 18in cheater pipe on the breaker bar to get the HBs loose.
The top half of the TB cover latches down but I only had the back panel that's bolted to the head. Well the 2 socket bolts that take 5mm Allen's were stuck. Had to use vice grips. Can't set the head flat since that back shield is in the way & removal requires pulling the cam sprocket. SECOND...whomever did the HBs must've done the same to the cam bolt. Had the lock plate in place on the back of the head...next thing I know the plate goes flying & the cam bolt is still solid. THE TOP END OF THE NOTCH ON THE BACK OF THE CAM SNAPPED OFF!!! FFS CAN'T GET A BREAK (this whole task is filled with puns)!!! If it hadn't been for that TB cover backing being in the way I would've left it alone. Now that the cam is useless...the back race will never oil proper...pulled the whole thing to get the backing off.
FORTUNATELY I have no shortage of spares. Will just use the one from the head with bum valve.
 

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So when you remove the cam bolt your supposed to use a counter hold tool. The lock at the back of the cam is only to time the engine. Ive seen many people break the end of the cam off
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Would've been nice to have that bit of info ahead of time. Probably would've had this pointed out if I looked @ the Bentley but I was going by what seemed "obvious".
OR
Just don't have a gorilla tighten it in the 1st place. On my 84 & even the prior running motor in this truck the cam bolt was good & snug but could come loose easily enough w/ just the lock plate.

FOR THE FUTURE...what does this counter hold tool look like? A bar with a C shaped end I imagine with 2 fat fingers to engage in the openings in the sprocket while allowing a socket on the bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will know for next time then.

Want to also do the front seal on the block which is on a stand. But the crank bolt is yet another victim of a gorilla. Wedged some 2x2 pieces of wood (pistons removed & block upside down) diagonally from pan lip to block skirt so the rod journals would then press on them...all I succeeded in doing is breaking the wood. Even had a 2nd set of hands making sure to hold the engine + stand from trying to go heels over head on itself. Then tried clamped vice grips down as hard as I could on the spacers between the bolt & sprocket...with 4ft of cheater pipe on the VGs & another 4ft on the breaker bar....the bar was flexing & crank turning in the VGs. Haven't tried a pipe wrench yet to hold against the torque. Seems I'm going to have to do the crank seal LAST...after it's all installed so I can use the Cheater's Method...breaker bar on the ground...trans in neutral...use the starter...maybe even give the breaker bar a 90deg sweep of head start so it can SMACK the work slab hard.
 

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Had that happen to me, the cause was not reading the Bentley. They used 110 lbs of torque to set a 60 lbs bolt.
The Bolt bottomed out and bent at the back of the shaft, destroying it. I Took the block with everything but the crank and pistons to my Machine shop, and they had to use 250 lbs of torque on their Impact gun to remove the bolt, the
cranks was too far gone to use any type of Helicoil. Took me 3 months to locate a good Crank. I hope this isn't what you are going through.

The 6 point bolt has a higher torque than a 12pt.
 

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For the crank there is a tool that threads into pulley bolt holes. As for myself I used the vw waterpump pulley wrench and a 6 foot pipe to hold the crank in place while I used an electric impact gun on the crank bolt
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
For my crank bolt I may still try the pipe wrench w/ cheater to hold it then use another cheater on the breaker bar...try longer on both this time. Unfortunately the only 19mm I have is an old but rather cheap one & is only 3/8 drive. The 1/2 drive 12pts I have could certainly stand up to the torque but they're SAE & the one that fits has just enough slop to about guarantee it will slip & round the bolt before the bolt breaks loose.

My rings & rod bearings came in...still have the mains I never used when I did my 84. Again it's a case of the block REALLY should be bored for OS rings & pistons but the money just isn't there. I'm .004 over spec but it's CONSISTENT across all cylinders unlike the wild range my PPO abused 84 was. So yet another case of just fresh rings & a good hone. Did wonders for the 84. Now it may have been doable to do a proper set of boring the block & going OS but by then I'd already committed & bought a turbo + manifold intended for a retrofit. The REAL TD I have is being saved for a proper project.

Just waiting on my gasket set from Prothe.
 

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Yeah I would never trust gaskets from Prothe...ever... My injection pump main shaft seal started leaking shortly after replacement with a prothe one. Ended up having to do the job twice by buying a bosch seal
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Have had a few small things from them before w/o issue. Things like pump seals of course I wouldn't go cheap...ie just did the fuel pressure regulator on the big 04 F250 here using a $90 FORD part that took a month to get here though I had the option of 1/3 that from AutoZone. Prothe kit comes with the 3pc valve cover gasket which is okay for a backup as I already have a German 1pc still in the packaging. The fiber gaskets are fiber gaskets. The 3-notch hyd HG will see what it's packaging is when it gets here. Then there's the HBs. Price-wise I think the margin was about 20% less than over at Parts Place but at the moment I'm stuck having to try and make the $ stretch.
 
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