[fadyharp]

you may need to add some trans fluid to it to unstiffing it

Kodi nox ​

 

[RuralTowner]

Trans still has oil. It's physically jammed no matter how much effort I put into it. Not about to force it by putting a cheater on the lever. Prior to this there was no feel of binding even after the prior episode where it briefly jammed after missing a gear & getting it unstuck. Stuck in 5th so if I'm lucky only the end housing will have to come off.
Truck engine is still apart as I haven't had the chance to begin the re-ring. This coming week will though.
On top of this today the outer CV socket on my 84 grenaded...lovely...here goes another 150 for a pair since the other side isn't looking too good either.

 

[srgtlord]

Ive seen 5th gear disappear from lack of oil but the 5th gear assembly was toast. How do you know its stuck? Is it in the truck?

 

[RuralTowner]

OH even a blind man with every nerve dead in their body could tell it's stuck. Lever won't budge...at all. Forcing it is guaranteed to destroy something. Visual inspection (after removal) it looks like the arm moved just a tad too far. Transmission still turns just fine but is stuck in 5th. It's a repeat of what happened after the mentioned episode where my sloppy linkage made me miss making sure it was in the correct gear some months back but was able to get it unstuck. This coming week I'll be off burning vacation time & will finally be able to get the other motor together & installed using my only other 5sp formerly mated to the motor that bent a valve due to onset CRS. After that I'll pop the jammed trans' 5th gear housing.

Trans is no longer in the truck. It got pulled about the same time as the 1st post & is divorced from the motor. Trans is still full of oil. Other than sloppy linkage making R difficult to get into with 2 & 4 sometimes (2 is the worst offender) finicky due to how our double-divorced linkages operate...worn out thumb ball makes linkage throw tricky with sometimes repeated & forceful operation of the stuck to give things momentum. Thumb ball on mine was worn flat when last seen...but discovered the plastic missing entirely when I 1st went to see what was going on after jamming for the last time. The metal part of the thumb had become wedged in the box it rides in & pushed it even further. All new linkage & bushings were the 1st thing done on this thing after getting it back home...even before pulling the engine//stuck-trans.

 

[RuralTowner]

FINALLY got around to reinstalling what amounts to the 5th engine in the truck...3rd since ownership. This motor is a hydraulic lifter 1.6 so it's an early Mk2 at the least. An issue I'm running into is the oil dipstick tube (all metal) which I think may be the wrong one. When the tube (just the part poking out of the block is over 3x as long as a Mk1's) is seated so the rib is ALMOST flush with the block I can hear the rest of the tube (which is as long as the stick) it bottoming out in the pan. It looks to have originally been siliconed into place. I have other spare blocks that could conceivably be donors if I could figure out how to remove them. Hints?

It has the bracket on it for securing it...but doesn't seem to line up with anything anywhere.

 

[RuralTowner]

Hooked up only the vitals to get it running...solenoid & GPs. Oil pressure line not connected as this motor doesn't have the fitting on the filter mount. Leaving the rad & coolant lines off for now. Cranked it for a couple times @ ~6 sec & could tell it was trying to build compression but no go of course...lot of air. Went to go get my home-made remote start & was about to hook it up & saw oil (not alot but enough & the fresh filter had very little in it on the ground below the filter mount. $#@&! The mount on this motor got swapped out since this motor originally had one with the fitting. Sure enough the bolts were finger snug only. Changed back over (mount was on the motor paired to the jammed trans). Now the only lube the cam & crank had was assembly grease...after replacing the mount to make use of the gauge & wanting to get fresh lube to the bearings I primed it with CLEAN OIL. Got in the cab & cranked until the gauge started to move then held for a few seconds as it held 40psi. GOOD! Everything has some lube.

2-4 primed okay @ the injectors but 1 isn't exactly getting wet. Even the nut connection @ the pump seemed to only drip weakly. This is the same pump from the previous motor that I messed up the #2 intake valve on. No start. Now the IP was NEVER removed from the bracket even when installing the motor mount. Pump worked in previous motor but since I'm getting a failure to start still I think I may be looking at a pump issue. Something sticking. This also means that the previous bout of running like $#@& that preceded the following F-up is pump related & NOT a timing pre-set failure. You can only imagine (I'm certain you can too)...how pissed this makes me. Hints on how to possibly service the distributor head of the pump while in the vehicle? I don't have a dial gauge (yet) so the fuel adjuster would be left untouched for now. An option I may also try is feed it pure ATF & maybe throw in some MMO & cycle the pump w/ the line nuts disconnected @ the pump...just let the mess fall onto something to catch the mess while trying to clear out the pump.

If needs be I can go ahead & pull the pump + bracket & just use the one from the trans jammed one...THAT ONE for an ABSOLUTE FACT works just fine. Again it would be a full IP + bracket swap to preserve pump timing. Motor mount is oldish but serviceable & I have 1 of those inserts that goes in the mount so it can never actually collapse.

 

[briano1234]

I had a pump issue once, I bought a pump at a wrecking yard for 100.00 and it was worse than mine. So I took my pump apart, and cleaned it the vanes were polished with 1000 grit paper and I replaced all the o-rings. I used the tard pump as a guide to get mine apart, and well the security screws with the Tri-angle was a bother but I filed a screwdriver to fit and it worked, only having a Haynes was a guide. I put it back on the car and Cracked the stand off unions on the manifold and all the lines and Cranked the engine after getting spray all over and tightening them the engine started.

I took the pump loose and moved it a bit both ways until I got it running well and locked it down. It got me about 45 mpg. not bad for a pump with 200+K on it. Later on I bought the dial gauge and I was at about 95 on it. So you can tune it by ear if you must. I had the pump on and off so much that I suppose I was lucky in getting it back together. You might want to take the old pump to a Diesel Pump rebuilder that is local to you the kit is only like 60 bucks.

 

[RuralTowner]

This pump & the motor it was previously installed in all ran. AM wondering if perhaps the initial fuel from a metal fuel can...the type with the clasp-on tool tray below it. MIGHT have been contaminated somehow. The tank had diesel in it & there was no way for rain (what little we ever do get) could have gotten in...though somehow I had leakage into the tray. It had ~1gal in the fuel can part that I dumped into the empty bed tank which has a lift pump as it's normally used for processed WVO. Tank was empty after having only 15gal of diesel in it. Any contaminants would have had to get through 2 fuel filters to reach the IP. Unless some water DID somehow get into the jug. But thinking the tank didn't have enough fuel I added ~4gal had stored in a 55gal drum that used to have only motor oil (barrel had maybe a cup in it which shouldn't have mattered 1 bit.

The project truck that originally had the motor//IP combo that caused me more headache didn't have fuel lines connected...it was run by just sticking lines into a jug w/ a filter in between & iirc while being parked I kept a section of hose looped between the IP inlet & outlet.

If I just swap over the pump that I know for a fact works...it's on an early 1.6 but the motor now in the truck is a late model. Is there any settings difference between the way the IPs are set up on them? My worn out 84 is a mid-range as years go 1.6 which has more pep than the one I was using in the truck before this debacle. Once I eventually reach 75mph I can hold it there with 4/5th throttle. The 81 4-door I used to have...which was dimensionally identical to my 84 & only marginally heavier due to having about everything still...was a gutless pig that topped out @ 65 on flat ground full throttle...it had the early 1.6 also. Motor I had to put in the truck after purchase (an early 1.6) was a little better but not much...it could at least hold 70 at WOT.

 

[RuralTowner]

Instead of effing with removing the pump from an otherwise (almost) good running motor (said one pulled w/ jammed trans) or even pulling the one that came attached to a trans bell test stand...I opted to dig into the parts cabinet. I still have only a vague idea of everything I have. A half dozen serviceable heads...1 of which is practically new though where it was previously being stored (wrapped up in a rag) the head face will need a cleaning...2-3 more whose cams have gone patina so would need to be polished...another bare head that had a pre-chamber fall out while I was originally loading it up...at least 2 more good used AFAIK that were stored in plastic (got them like that). On top of that 8 or 9 complete IPs in unknown condition not counting the 2-3 others in pieces.
Using my 84's IP as a reference trying to find one w/ a matching pt# which the last 3 are "109" I opted for a 108 F implying it's a later series pump (close to the 84s) I assume from the parts pile. It had caps on the IP line connections so those at least will be dust free. Have a 108 K but the ends of that one were uncovered. The F was missing the banjo bolts for IN//OUT so I grabbed some of those off the others. Even found more than a few UN-OPENED IP seal kits...not counting what must be 2-3 strewn loose in a box that had IP pieces! On top of which...I KNEW I had bought one but then lost track of where I put it...found the timing set. Bit of a cheap EWK set but it has the critical dial gauge bit.

SO going to clean up the 108 F...mount it in place of the current & use the grunge outline to get an approx set point to match up. Then use the BENTLEY as needed to try getting the 1 MM setting for the pump if I can get it started.

 

[RuralTowner]

FINALLY! Some good progress & 1 step closer to being a "diesel mechanic".

Before pulling the old pump I used the dial gauge to get a judge of pump alignment but also a reading. Replaced pump & lined up the grunge lines to start with. Dial gauge readings seemed way off. Now bear with me...I was reading the "10" as 1mm for some reason. Ended up with the raised dimple that would usually point at the indentation on the bracket (pump completely vertical) instead pointing out & away from the motor which was different than the previous one & any other motors I have intact. Go to bleed things...crank & crank & crank. Not so much as a puff of smoke coming out. Come back & look again at a page I found..which by the way ends up becoming VERY HELPFUL!!! HOW-TO: Set The Injection Pump Timing - VinceWaldon.com

My screw up was I wasn't giving the dial gauge enough pre-load but most importantly not reading it right since the gauge I have is in INCHES. The gauge was still set for what I was doing previous...WAY too retarded...probably something near "90" almost 3mm. 1mm being 1 tick short of "40". Did a proper pre-load. Re-set everything...adjusted pump to "39" which is right about 1mm. Dimple on pump points to where the original did. Double checked by backing off from TDC then back. Reading stayed.

Button pump back up...after cranking & realizing I had the wrong fuel line connected to the IP...took a few MORE cranks but eventually got it to start off. Loud as hell since I omitted the exhaust pipe this go around JUST in case I got to do the routine AGAIN on the motor. Only ran it for a couple seconds...just long enough to know it's working. When I can next get to it the exhaust goes back on along with the CV axles (after filling the cups with grease) & check the trans oil lvl. Then it's putting the engine bay back together the rest of the way so I can actually start it proper to bring it to temp for the next step on the HBs. If this IP proves to be an issue all...by then hopefully I'll have the K pump ready...it will be a simple swap job now that I know what to do. After making sure to READ & not simply have read the steps on that site...not nearly as difficult as it looks @ first glance.

 

[briano1234]

Nice, reminds me of learning the mantra RTFM squared.

 

[RuralTowner]

Must be the neighbor of SUAEI fine print for military personnel when they sign up & gripe about eating the same thing all the time.

 

[RuralTowner]

Went to install the exhaust then the CVs but ran into an issue. It's the bowl-type connection. Got the passenger clip on but the driver's wouldn't go. Took me a minute to realize the bowl was below Cyl #3 instead of between 2 & 3. Motor being a hydraulic head has it being out of a Mk2 which now is clear has a slightly different setup. The heat shield around the down pipe was hitting the bracket for the linkage. It would still work if the shield (which protects the passenger inboard CV boot) was removed but opted to take off the manifold. I have extra bowl-type center drops but they won't quite mount on w/ the intake in place. The ears for the top bolts on the ends rub. So now the intake will have to come off...was hoping to not have to do that.

Also encountered an issue that would affect the future retrofit turbo install. Turbo is centered but down pipe would still be below #3. Turbo I have is (from the description) is from a Mk2 but has the same KKK 03 version found on an AAZ. Seller got it from was going to turbo his NA as well but went a different route & kept it NA. Found (from a UK source) the output flange for use in making custom exhaust...but also found the complete downpipe from a source up in Canada for $65 + 25 so $90CA or ~75 USD. Has the right flange but just found out the orientation is off. When it mounts up the pipe would all be pointed @ the motor. This isn't a HUGE deal. Sure I'm out some $ but it gives me an on-hand reference. The mount plate can be homemade from 1/4" plate & instead of the 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 round outlet I have a mind if possible to make the entire plate feed into the inevitable downpipe to reduce restriction. When this stage comes I knew going in it will take some fiddling...not alot of room between the bottom of the fire wall & CV axle to try getting all it to fit. Still doable...could even consider making a custom adapter perhaps to work on the the older style 6-bolt rectangle exhaust that the truck originally came with. That would keep things centered & simplify some of the pipe routing. That's for later though.

 

[RuralTowner]

Finally have it running...ish. Had to hold the throttle to keep it running even long enough for it to warm sufficiently (only took a couple minutes) to give the 1/4 turn. After 3 weeks of driving (when it's back on the road) will be about 1000-1200 miles so by then can do the final 1/4. Part of my fuel plumbing is clear (yellowed with age) & I can see I'm getting air bubbles from the upstream side which accounts for some of the rough running. Few line connections to play with still.

OTHERWISE only other major thing is sorting out my dip stick which the existing one is not OEM. Can still make use of the tube. Got some really thin copper material used as shim material that I can use to wrap the tube then carefully wedge the tube in as far as practical then either epoxy or JB weld it into place after being sure the block is clean. Just have to get the stick tube to the right amount to poke out the block before I give it a replacement stick from a bum block.

Going to reseal the K pump I have for it then install at some point. Can you use engine assembly lube in an injector pump?
Otherwise I'll just prime it full of ATF.

 

[briano1234]

I thought that parts place has new clear lines.

 

[RuralTowner]

Have seen them but I have no shortage of injector lines. Got between 2 to 4 loose sets.

Think I got rid of the inbound line getting air. Still runs rough. Leaves me with air contamination due to return lines between injectors not going into place right. Am using fuel line like that found on weed eaters...a bear to get to fit over the nipples...needs to be at least 1 size bigger. Have to use needle nose to get them on but that risks ripping them. Do go on better in warmer weather. Trying to carefully heat the ends with a lighter makes them TOO soft. Smallest regular fuel line I can get locally is a tad too thick. Line nut would have to be on first & even then wedging them on would be a pain.

 

[RuralTowner]

Before I dig into tearing a pump down for re-seal...I dug into the box that had a couple of them in pieces. Each in a different state where 1 was an empty shell while another still had the shaft in place & the "cup" that the cam plate rides on. Pump internals are nowhere near as complicated as I thought they may be though the layout is FAR different than the Stanadyne DBs. First of all the portion with the centrifugal weights is above the main shaft & not on it. As for the other pumps they all came from a place where the pair of guys tore down diesels then fixed up cars to then flip. The pumps can easily be good runners but the motors were shot. However they have been sitting awhile...dry...so any seals can easily go to crap. That may be what is causing my current issues. Also gleaned a good idea of how the outlet valves work so I'll be going back to the ORIGINAL pump that gave me grief & see if simple fouling is the problem.

Other than taking one apart & meticulously laying bits out while taking careful note of how many turns a threaded-in part may be...where might I find a good tear down guide useful for resealing the internals?. Not had much luck finding any yet.

 

[briano1234]

Tech Groups

Group 2 section 23

 

[RuralTowner]

Forgot I even had that one bookmarked.
About 1/3 to 1/2 of the process I was able to glean by toying with the loose bits but w/o a disassembly myself there was no reference for the governor spring assy or a number of the small retainer pins & screws. Those pumps are missing some small bits so can only ever get used as references anyway.

At bare minimum I can just pop the top of a pump to check for gunk or corrosion. The outlet valves had an additional part I had missed. For the rest...turn counting & etch markings (where allowed) to get a pump back together the way it was will certainly be in order. I'd be in these mostly for cleaning then reseal anyhow.
The post where it says the Bosch is crowded (very true) but a rotary is worse...however a Stanadyne DB rotary has significantly fewer parts & is simpler.

 

[RuralTowner]

The VWDiesel thread the link leads to is great. But think I just found an additional source that covers reassembly just as well then some since the voice over includes a good deal of descriptive info. It's also a bit more relevant to what most DIY are likely to be doing. Here he's making 2 out of 1. Different pump but the bulk of components are identical. Also has 1 for the tear down of one...which would go about as well for any other 1st timer as was for him @ the time.