[RuralTowner]

Got 1 pump re-sealed & put back together using the good bits from a 108 K...in same spot where it seems alot of pumps say 107 AG. Again assuming the higher numbers refer to later series...the K is only a few letters below the one in my 84. Opted to then open up the one that was mounted to the motor//trans that went in & later bent a valve. Found out why the motor ran like ****. Half the guts were gummed on top of previously discovering the #1 delivery valve was stiff. Plunger gummed...throttle ring gummed...rollers gummed...cam disc looks really ugly ESPECIALLY on the lobe side. Only the advance plunger in the pump belly escaped it.

Had a helluva time getting it apart...the stem the governor weights ride on has that spanner nut which requires a punch to remove w/o the wrench. Managed to back it off about 1/4 turn...enough to relieve its pressure on the IP body but the bolt is S T U C K. Had to pop out the shaft from the sprocket & 1 of the transfer pump screws was stubborn. Aside from the governor wheel & the sliding piece (forget name)...just the eccentric ring deep inside remains.

One of the few times I wouldn't mind torque bits would be if they used those for the vane pump cover instead of Philips.

 

[RuralTowner]

Think I might be paying for going to Prothe. After much other trouble finally got it running. Took it for a test drive & temp rose to 220 - 230 in less than 5 miles. Not the T-stat as I've tried 2 different ones. About an hour ago did another test...after only 2mi or so got the same temp spike. Pulled over & checked hoses...only warm. Popped reservoir cap to a fountain of water & only a little steam. Quickly get it back home a couple mi away & by then the reservoir was empty. While still running I top it back off. Level stays. Try again & only get 1/2 mile before turning back. Back to the hot fountain then it levels out followed by actively seeing the reservoir empty. NO external leaks.

Only thing I can figure is either bad head gasket...I missed or didn't quite get the block & or head cleaned up enough...OR somehow (now that I think of it) a bolt didn't take too well. Seeming to recall 1 bolt feeling funny even though all got torqued down & given the initial 1/2 turn after install then the 1/4 after a warm up period. Thoughts?

PO of motor never mentioned anything wrong with motor aside from low compression which the new rings would have amended.

 

[briano1234]

I would suspect that you have the dreaded head bolt crack where the bolt hole may be cracked. I would go with the Arp Stud Kit, and a new head gasket. The Studs hold better in the head and are re-usable.

I would also ask if at that time were the hoses hard to compress or ballooned?
Which was the classic sign that the head gasket failure that I was experienced with.

 

[RuralTowner]

VWVortex seems a bit more turbulent. But to keep this thread a little on the updated side too...the hoses were warm & about as spongy as a cold running motor even before popping the reservoir cap to the endless fountain. HBs that came with the Prothe set (so no doubt very cheap ones at that) didn't feel consistent during the removal process with about half feeling like they were good & snug while at least a couple came lose a little too easily IMO. New Elring gasket on the way from RockAuto after AutoZone failed for almost a week on getting the HG but did get me some new MAHLE HBs.

 

[srgtlord]

You could also have a bad thermostat. Ive had plenty of bad ones straight from the autoparts store that were the crap never-last brand

 

[RuralTowner]

Don't think it would be the T-stat. First "overheat" with the old one that came in the motor & presumably was working when the engine was pulled (before I got it). One in the truck now came from motor I was driving w/ prior to the trans issue. Never got hot...sure it reached 230 (about half the gauge range) but only under heavy load but would cool down. Yet the end result is the same as the 1st here. Only difference is with the one that came in the motor I never opened the reservoir until the next day to check coolant...which was down. Coolant normally comes out as a boiling froth for the most part in a proper overheat situation w/ lots of steam & bubbling even after pressure is relieved (so far as I have observed anyway) but I had what seemed as just an under-pressure fountain. Also would not explain the speed of the temp rise. ESPECIALLY for that 2nd drive attempt where the system was filled back up from over half empty with cool deep-well water & didn't get a half mile before being forced to turn back around aside from coolant soaking up alot heat from everything else. When engine was finally turned off there was no audible boiling or escaping steam from the reservoir.

Prior to the drive I probably could have idled it for an extended period just fine but then the driving put everything under load. One way to eliminate T-stat as a culprit would be to omit it...I have a gutted one used for the purpose of flushing so the T-stat cover doesn't leak. If the issue were to happen again then something else far more severe is afoot.

 

[srgtlord]

In that case it is either the headgasket or a cracked block....

 

[RuralTowner]

Leaning towards possible HB due to being poor quality. PO I got the motor from used to run it I think & only said it had low compression...no coolant issues. Outside of block is thoroughly oil caked as some of ours tend to get. No external leaks anyway. Freeze plugs intact...any overheat w/ those shot would result in LACK OF coolant. Didn't see any cracks in the cylinder walls that would allow hot combustion gases into the cooling jacket...also would've seen significant coolant there when head pulled just from seepage. Got a little bit in the 2 middle cylinders (were down) when pulling the head which is bound to happen.

Gaskets came in today...just need to pick them up. Will update with the results.

 

[RuralTowner]

ELRING 3 hole HG in place. 10 new MAHLE bolts torqued + 1/2. Got it warmed so gauge reads just off cold...WP//alt belt not installed to aid quicker warm up. By the time I get to bolt #4 I get that almost spooky CREAK for the next 1/4...same goes for 5 & 6 (2nd in on front driver's being the most infamous w/ the tightest feel)....wide departure from the softer feel of the bolts that came in the Prothe set @ this stage. The rest did okay. I am however left w/ mix results on what followed.
To remove ambient outside temp as any contributor...just took it for a test. By this time it was idled enough for temp to begin reading ~160 on a gauge where 130 is just off of bottomed out. After 1st mile (didn't exceed 30mph)...stop...temp reads just under 170. Check reservoir to see if it repeats the previous mess fountaining. Just a little steam (cool outside so of course) & the overflow return doing it's thing. Get a half mile further expecting gauge to settle up on ~200-210 but begins to push higher. End of 2nd mile I stop w/ temp reading ~220...burp the cap...this time there is some escaping coolant but it quickly subsides to only see the return line spitting. Entire time haven't gone above 30mph. No highway speed load (this is complicated by another matter). Rad hoses are only that normally expected spongy warm. Drive the last ~1/2 mi w/ cap off...temp doesn't change.
On the off chance that SOMEHOW my gauge which had no problems before...was somehow deciding to be faulty...I d/c'd the one for the cab & quick & dirty connected another brand new un-used gauge I had & set it in the rain tray while keeping the rest of the capillary line clear of anything. Topped the coolant back off to replace what little was lost then did another tentative 1 mile circuit...temp SEEMED to behave similar//same. Engine by this time will definitely be warmed up...loosen cap to vent pressure & remove. Burps a little yet again then ceases...no endless fountain. Engine ran nowhere near long enough yet for fan to be kicking in.

MARGINAL improvement or so it seems...at least no endless geyser from reservoir when cap popped after warm yet far below OP temp...just the normal burp. HOWEVER...can't do a proper test this go due to oil dip stick tube. My tube (see previous post for image) supposed to have an O-ring or something in addition to the bracket? Existing setup doesn't have a place for the tube bracket to attach. I used a full tube of JB putty trying to seal around the tube & onto the block of which the latter didn't work out too well & even after old-granny test driving it I still get considerable leak between the putty & tube...enough to get spots all over the upper rad hose.

Thoughts//tips on sealing that?
ALSO since this motor has a hydraulic head...is THIS by chance going to be potentially causing higher temps?

Little truck is a big headache.

 

[jeSSie_00]

Is this vintage car.? Very cool. https://metalroofinghoustonultd.com

 

[RuralTowner]

Vintage in that the truck is over 40 yrs old now & while the body is still in good shape there is no call to keep it garaged. 1st of all in SW AZ which has the dream environment for preservation...though would LOVE to have an enclosed one large enough so projects can be done inside out of the Summer sun. Don't see having one in the budget anytime soon.

Truck is on the road. Turned out to be that the water pump wasn't moving coolant even though the blades were intact & was spinning fine. Were a cast-blade instead of the stamped paddles or even the cast spiral cone...had next to NO flow.

After all that effort however...RL has stepped in to throw a Jahre Viking worth of wrenches into the WORX. So the 1.6 IDI TD I was saving for a project truck...a project that may NEVER happen now...is going to end up in this rig. This motor after having ALOT of teething issues works...just not as well as hoped...is coming out & the TD is going on. May as well use my best motor in the little workhorse. ESPECIALLY since fuel prices are going bonkers.