Volkswagen Owners Club Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all new to the forum not so new to the wonderful VW lifestyle. I just purchased an 82 rabbit convertible and was wondering if anyone could give me tips about why the odometer, temp gauge, tach, and fuel gauge don't work. Also found out that the headlights don't work (have not replaced bulbs yet still going to check those) if anyone could chime in with some ideas on how to fix the cluster issue it would be greatly appreciated
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
The cluster:

Odometer is usually the drive gear that is stripped on the shaft, one too many pressings of the trip button while the car was in motion.
It may be as simple as removing the cluster, taking the odometer out, and using a small drop of super glue on the shaft to hold the gear in place.
The gears can be had from between 15 and 40 dollars on line. You really need to know the number of teeth on yours prior to ordering.

The red gear in the picture is a VDO set.


The water temp and Fuel gauge have a couple of issues.
First issue is that the nuts that hold the gauges to the cluster can get tarnished or corroded, and stop making good connection.
Second issue is that the 10V stabilizer can go bad, as that directly powers both gauges, so when that goes, both gauges stop operating. If it is
both gauges then that is usually the issue.

It is a 3 legged solid state device on the back of the cluster.


to test it:


If yours is bad which I suspect it might, then you can order one from German Auto Parts, or autohausaz for 30-45 dollars.
You can get it off of ebay for that as well. however, you can order 10 of them from Mouser.com for about 16 bucks including shipping, don't order one or two, as it is better to get a few and hold on to them. The partnumber for the device is lm7810-aet.

You can test both gauges with a nine volt dc battery applying voltage to the two studs on the gauges.



Now with that said, there is a 3rd thing that you need to look for.
The main connector on the cluster can get weakened a wee bit, the input to the clusters are the black wire usually pin 14 12v+ battery and number 2 pin brown which is ground. Take the shroud off the main connection, and CAREFULLY take the mylar off the tongue. Take a piece of electrical tape and place on the pin side of the connector, replace the mylar, and shroud, you now have plumped your connection which will make it tighter and more better.



Squeeze the two finger locks in and wiggle it off.



It also wouldn't hurt you to replace the cluster lamps at this time as that way if you have a bad one then you won't be kicking yourself in the posterior after finding that out on replacing the thing.

It also wouldn't hurt to take the brown wire on the main connector, and about 6 inches back pig tail a wire about 10 inches long, and get a shorter and newer ground wire to frame.




Headlights have 4 fuses, 2 for low and 2 for high. If you have the older pull type switch it is possibly bad and you need to test it, that is if the fuses are good then the switch is usually the cause. Remove the switch and on the left side there is a button that you push t get the knob and shaft out.
replacements form partsplaceinc.com aren't that expensive, if you have the Rocker type, then it is usually the switch so replace that, depends on which type of switch you have installed.

All Cabriolets or in 82, rabbit verts were made in Germany and shipped to the different markets, they have more in common with the Euro GOLFS than the usa rabbit.

A great site to know is www.cabby-info.com for all things vert.

All my how do I do thats are in the DIY section, and broken down by division. Each DIY division up above has my legend for that to point to the various DIY's and fixes that I have done over the last 14 years or so. Now they are for a 90's Cabriolet (different engine) but are basically all mk1.

The last thing you will want to do after getting your headlights going is to relay them. It takes the hi-current load off the headlight switch (which is a good thing), and increases the brightness of your headlights by 2 Volts usually.

You use a standard 30-40 amp set of relays, or 3 if you want to get really tricky.
The 82 should have a single round grille so you would still need 2 relays, just don't add the pigtail for the center high beam.
How I dod it?

How to relay your headlights.

Did I give you enough to ponder?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
Dang I forgot about the tack, it uses a signal from the coil or Fuel Pump Relay to power it, but I have also seen where the 10V stabilizer goes wonky can effect that as well. So make sure that your wires are all connected to the coil, and that you have an input pulse to the tach (hardly ever have seen a bad tach) but have seen plenty of bad wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the very descriptive reply I love it I'm going to try the gauge stuff tomorrow...as far as headlights go everything else comes o except headlight tail lights come on and runni g lights come one so I don't think it's the switch?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
Thank you for the very descriptive reply I love it I'm going to try the gauge stuff tomorrow...as far as headlights go everything else comes o except headlight tail lights come on and runni g lights come one so I don't think it's the switch?
Measure the switch, as I had that failure when I was a tad short of funds, and the stealership wanted big bucks for a replacement.
Soooooo I took it all apart got the number off the solid state component, and wired around it, so my lights were always on when the key was in the ignition.
Yes the forerunner of DRL's.

The Switch layout on the older Rabbits aren't very descriptive, It shows all the sires going into a box, but not how they are connected inside of the box.
Actually the wiring diagrams of the early rabbits and golfs leave a lot to be desired, as ok, 8 wires going in a box drawing and connected internally by magic.
so that you have 3 input and 5 output but not which is going where internally.

Yours should be:
https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-cabriolet-jetta-headlight-switch-10353.html

but could be:
https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-mk1-rabbit-rabbit-pickup-headlight-switch-9411.html

Check your bulbs with a meter to verify that the 12V is at the bulb then check to see that there is a good ground to the bulb.

typical headlight switch wiring




here is what your fuse panel should look like.


Thank you Kammy...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I tore the dash apart tonight the voltage regulated read 10.02 so I'm thinking it a good, but I'm going to replace it when I get the new one anyway. I tested temp and gas gauge with 9v battery both work. Checked the gauge grounds and they seemed ok, going to clean them with some isopropoline alcohol tomorrow. The red gear on the odometer was pushed off the superglued that back on I put the electrical tape behind the 14 pin connectors to tighten that my gauges are still not working I will let you know what I find out after replacing the voltage regulator and cleaning the terminals
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
And one last thing I checked my headlight fuses all looked good I checked them with a test light and had no power to the fuses so I'm hoping to rule that into a bad headlight switch which I also have on order
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
If you are talking about the wiring mylar that is tucked, it isn't being used and they parked it there but I would not let it touch metal, I would tape the pad side to prevent it from shorting out. I think it originally was to go to the MFA that was used on Euro Models. I see that your speedo has a connection on the back of it for a speed sensor for cruise control.

If you are talking about the 10V stabilizer then it screws to the metal plate (metal side of stabilizer down.).

When the Key is on and the circuits are functioning, then a fuse will have power on both sides of it, after all it is a wire to ground.
A fuse that only has power to one side usually indicates that it is bad, or that your circuit has an error in it whether it is the switch or a bulb, it could also be missing a ground at the bulb.

On your bulb (headlight) you have 3 tabs. two are vertical and one horizontal. The Vertical ones are "high beam" and "ground" Ground being the brown wire. The top horizontal is the low beam.

Once you have the system working then you should relay the lights.



You will usually go from 11.5V at the bulbs to 13.5.
before relays.


after relays


The one on the right doesn't have the relays.


But it does now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So I just got curious and grounded my test light and checked all the wires in the 14 pin connector I only got a light on for leed 5, 6, and 14. If my assumption is correct I have a wiring issue then wouldn't I shouldn't most of them have power running to them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Re connected my flashers and I the light for 13 cam on which states that is blinker light and I know 14 is power but the one labeled temp does not come on and I don't k ow what 5 and 6 are for
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok so good news after cleaning all the contacts with rubbing alcohol I have a temp gauge and a working gas gauge hooray the only thing left is the tach...and the headlights
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok can someone chime in on the tach possibly a wiring diagram of which wires I need to look for the plug on the side of the distributor looks fine and in tact
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
The tach isn't usually fed off the dizzy, it is fed off of the Coil and the fuel pump relay.
I don't have the schematics for the tach on a 82.

On a 85
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok got my new headlight switch still no headlights...bummed out can I have everything else except for headlight can anyone inform me which wire from the switch controll the actual headlights
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
Headlights have 4 separate fuses. SO you may want to check them first.
The headlights get power from the Load Reduction Relay that is when the Key is in the ignition and in the run position. when the car is started, the relay cuts on and opens the headlights and blower, so you have total power to the starter.

The load reduction relay applies power to the headlight switch on the black/yellow wire
Out of the headlight switch from the white/black wire it goes through the headlight/bright/flash stalk back to the white and to the white/black wire on the bulbs for low, and when you flash or use your brights it uses the yellow off the switch to yellow , and yellow/black.

So you are now down to a high/low stalk switch, the load reduction relay or a bad ignitions switch "X' CONTACT.

Here is an explanation of the "X" circuit.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6761577-The-quot-X-quot-Circuit-from-the-Ignition-Switch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Once again thanks for your help briano1234 I did some wire tracing since I had both side high beams and drivers side low beam I traced the yellow wire from the passenger side low beam all the way back to the fuse panel and found out it is a loose connection on just that particular pin in the connector if I pull on the wire a little bit I can get it to turn on for a while but eventually wiggles itself loose again. So that brings me to my next question. How hard is it to remove the pins from the connectors in these harnesses and do you have a how to on this subject?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
So that brings me to my next question. How hard is it to remove the pins from the connectors in these harnesses and do you have a how to on this subject?
Well actually I don't have a how-to on that inparticular, but there are "pin" extractors, it is basically a hollow tube with a push-rod in the center.
You push the rod over the pin, the hollow of the tube catches the fingers that lock it and compresses them a wee bit so when you push the push-rod the pin comes out of the holder. I have Always called it an AMP pin-extractor as that was the name on the side of mine.

I have heard of folks using coffee Stirrers to do the same thing, I have two of the tools (I have been working in "puters" for a long time) one for regular pins, and one for flat pins Think of the differences between a round pin that you are fighting and the pins in the cluster connector.

Here is one type of flat pin.... who knew that bobby pins are useful for other things than rattling around in my washer.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7226191-How-to-build-your-own-VAS-1978-4-terminal-pin-extraction-tool

Similar to this:
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1702256082362071238?lsf=seller:6136318,store:2813562516179024973&prds=oid:9061312789899206273&q=amp+tools+pin+extractors&hl=en&ei=VZyZWbSgJsmvmQHisLTgCA&lsft=gclid:CjwKCAjw5uTMBRAYEiwA5HxQNurn_vn82LLOgeKv6YErbsvJY3txLINHrmt35GIy02fyXfjmknnD-xoCpD8QAvD_BwE

Now once you get the bloody thing out, look at the little fingers that "catch" if they are laying flat, then they aren't holding correctly and need to be bent out a wee pit.

This of course is on the connector side of the fuse panel. The fuse panel is a whole different ball game....
why? because you can't get to them, they are part and parcel of the fuse panel itself.

This is an 89 Cabriolet panel.



PSSSSSSSS.
If you relay your headlights, you can make your own harness (I prefer the ceramic headlight plugs), then power the relays from the side that is working.
You will be adding 2 fuses to power the circuit you off load the power to the headlight switch, and get better brightness to the lamps..... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Relays came in today so I am going to relay the headlights on friday when I have my next available time to work on it, But upon fixing most of my issues a new one arose. I tried turning the windshield wipers on the other day just yo see if they worked and I had no power to them. Any guesses on what this could be I have already replaced the relay for that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,417 Posts
Fuse, no ground to the motor, and or the stalk switch bad motor.

Check for voltage at the motor with the switch on, (BROWN IS GROUND).
IF there is voltage then the motor or ground suspect.

No Voltage then the Relay, fuse, stalk switch suspect.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top