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Discussion Starter #1
My 84 has an AC system in that wasn't working when I got it...and doesn't help that one of the hardline that connect to the back broke so all the AC is doing is taking up space and make it harder to keep the belts under proper tension. As I'm sure others can attest...getting solid tension on the crank//WP//AC belt is a PITA.

I'm planning on pulling the AC compressor and changing over to the non-AC alternator. Got 2 of them (plus 2 AC types + 1 w/o pulley) when I bought a 4-door SAR (Some Assembly Required) recently and at least 1 of them should work. Only 2 wires on them...1 LARGE gauge cable I'm sure probably goes right to the battery terminal on the starter and 1 small lead. Correct me if I'm wrong please.

Before I do the change I need to know what wiring I need to keep out of the harness that plugs into the back of the AC type. Is 3 or 4 wires I believe.
 

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Well get the proper a/c bracket and your belt tension days are over.
The one on the left has a barrel bolt, and you loosen the 4 bolts, tighten the barrel bolt and then lock the 4 bolts and Bob's your Uncle it stays tight.
On later 84 Cabriolets and Golfs up to 89.







Using a Cabriolet style of alternator is ok, as it is simply to wire up. The Big Bolt in the phenolic plate goes to the battery, and the little bolt in the same phenolic mount goes to the blue or black wire, which is the exciter wire from the instrument cluster. As long as the shafts are the same you should be ok, whoever if you do remove your
alternator then your going to need the longer relay to get the belt at the right position, as the non-a/c pulley is longer.

larger wires and

Large lug to battery so you would take your two larger wires and tie them to the battery where the odd colored one goes to the little 8mm nut stud.

They are avail at toywagen.com.

Folks usually replace the connector with separate insulated female crimp connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Longer relay...clarify please.

The AC bracket on mine has a hinge bolt on the bolt on the bottom then 2 shorties for either ear of the AC...of which both are a pain to start. Then its just a pain trying to hold tension with 1 hand and try to tighten the 1st bolt with the other and not have it try to spin the whole bolt instead of the nut. More than once when it seemed I FINALLY had the right tension to let go it would invariably rebound ever so slightly. When it doesn't...its snug just enough that eventually vibration loosens it just enough so that even the racket of THESE diesels can't drown out the squeal.

Since I got the 84 the self exciting NEVER worked. Battery light on the dash would stay on until I either gave the throttle a good bump or once I got done shifting through all the gears and got up to about 50-53mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think I know what is meant now. Long snout pulley. Am good in that dept as both the alternators in hand have them already. I just need to make sure I have the correct belt at the ready before I do the switch over.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I swear the bracket the AC bolts to and the Alt also likes to lose bolts. I'm missing the pulley-side bolt off the AC now. The alternator belt pulled a Houdini on me this morning...now you see me and now you don't. I have belts for both AC and non-AC setups but I THINK the belt I have for non-AC is too short. Read on here that the AC can be pulled and just keep the bracket in place but it means using a much longer belt than it would "normally".

Where on the block would the alternator mount with the AC removed? I have one of the tension arms with the teeth but it was made clear VERY quickly that it is WAY too short if used with the alternator in the AC position...the IP is in the way. I'm going to keep the AC bolt setup for the time being but want to be sure I have everything else correct for when I do the change over.
 

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When folks delete the a/c, some grind off the a/c bracket a little past the WP lower bolts.
They keep the Alternator mount.

Others remove the whole bracket using longer bolts in the water pump. Then mount the a/c to the bracket at the top of the a/c bracket.

The Alternator Tensioner arms, there are about 3 or 4 styles of them.



 

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Discussion Starter #7
The image helps. If that bracket isn't already on the block I'll check with the other assorted parts that came with the 4 door. I'd prefer to make use of the short toothed tension arm since I don't see THAT one working loose. Mine's managed to not only come loose but recently the alt itself lost the hinge bolt and only stayed in place thanks to the tensioner bracket...which shockingly was enough to keep enough tension where a throttle bump was enough to get rid of belt squeal....since oil consumption is very low I only pop the hood every 2-3 weeks.

If I can't find one in the assorted bits there is also a long block (minus IP) that had sate out in the elements that might have it...wish I knew what block it is as it might be good for core parts. Not sure if its a 1.6 since the only raised lettering on the back is a big "D" on the flywheel end of it.
 

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D is diesel, and there may be a 1.5 or 1.6 stamp on the rear of the engine on the exhaust side, I know that my 1.5 did.

For part numbers and specs on the bolts.
http://www.oemepc.com/

It won't tell you the pitch but give you the length and size of the bolt like m8X200 The pivot bolt is a allen.
On my Diesel, I lost the tensioner bolt on the block, and finally used a longer bolt and a lock nut.

Om my cabbies I have had the a/c bolt back out, and lost the pivot bolt on my power steering bolt, this last time I
added a lock nut on that as well.

Oh, and on the etka link, use the RHD as that is the British VW's and they have pictures way back on them, just be warned that the rabbits are called a GOLF and pickups are called CADDY's.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have hinge bolts...3-4 or so among the bits I got. I looked at that block...no mounting brackets of any sort left. May just make do by removing the AC and keep the alt where its at...quite a bit longer belt though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well after going through my 2nd Alt//AC belt in 3 months I've sort of had it. Doesn't help that I think the root cause was the clamp bolts that held the AC weren't tight enough at one point thus causing them to fall out w/o my noticing....putting the strain of keeping BOTH belts tight on just the alternator...which wallowed out the hinge hole on it. Picked up new belt as a stop-gap on Saturday and when I went to put it on today it is WAY too short despite supposedly being the right length...it barely has enough length to loop over the alt's pulley nut.

Since I lack the non-AC mount bracket I've read where some just keep the AC bracket setup...remove the compressor...and just use a longer belt. Can't find the page (on here I think) where it mentioned the length to use. Seem to recall 42.5in. Sound right?

I have a few non-AC alts that already have the long snout pulleys. To ensure the long tension bracket holds...since the toothed one is WAY too short...I can combine the 2 by sandwiching them and maybe tacking the toothed one to the other to make sure it stays put.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Grrr...just lost entire post when I went to post...it all disappeared.

Finally getting around to this changeover since dealing with a sudden (as of last night) coolant leak which I believe to be where a weak hose meets a clamp. Belt on-hand is too short even at 42" but that's not the issue...the non-AC long-snout alternator I have won't work. The pulley pokes out a full groove beyond where the belt should go. Were the alt to have a double groove it would work. I have 3 long-snout alts....probably AC + PS come to think of it..all same length and a couple more AC type.

HALP!

EDIT: If I really have to I'll just drop the AC unit back in but would rather simplify the engine bay by removing a piece that doesn't work (a hardline broke anyway) and would eat about 1/3 engine power just to operate were I to go through the trouble to get it working. Not counting the fact that I just noticed that I lost yet ANOTHER pulley-side hinge bolt for the AC.
 

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Did you remove the a/c bracket? As if you didn't then you have to use the short pulley.
If you removed it then you use the upper a/c bracket pivot mount to mount your alternator and need the longer pulley.

If you remove the Bracket then you need to take one of the shorter WP bolts out and get two more as the bracket hold 2 of the wp bolts.

snap some pics that is the easy way for me to think on it.
 

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I think this is the pulley you need
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ford-Medium-Heavy-Truck-Alternator-Pulley-Hub-2-Groove-GP-688-3G-Series/152511008765?epid=755613584&hash=item23825d4ffd:g:Pf0AAOSwnF9Y8Ruo&vxp=mtr

I used one for my Mk2 a/c delete,
just checked it and the outside end measures 2.25" from the face of the alternator (behind the fan). I think I removed a washer behind the fan to get that distance for the mk2.
Anyway, went and checked my mk1 that I deleted the a/c (using the stock bracket, alt swung up), and the measurement looks like it will work.

You can web search the GP688 pulley for more specs on the groove measurements. The 17mm bore is correct for vw alternators. The belt I use is 46017
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4693665&jsn=378
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found that coolant leak...bypass hose had been rubbing against a casting stub on the block...a mounting surface it seems.

I'll have to measure mine to see if the numbers will work out. But I THINK I would run into the problem of the belt hitting the timing shroud...right in front of the IP nose where the shroud pokes out just a tad more to accommodate the IP shaft. I test aligned the crank//WP (with AC removed) to line up where the alt pulley would have to be and it seemed it would invariably rub The AC/Alt belt already comes mighty close but is more forward.

Would it possible to get images of your MK1 setup?

For the time being I've reinstalled the AC. As the existing alt mounting holes had wallowed out...preventing proper tension from being kept...I traded pulleys with 1 of my long-snout spares which had the 2 posts on back...tied the small one into the blue wire on the original harness and ran an 8ga lead from the large pole to the starter. The ear on the alt where the tensioner arm would go is different...has a threaded hole and the ear is RIGHT where the arm has to go. But was able to push the arm to the side and secure a bolt in place.
 

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I didn't know about the ford pulley when I did this so I bought a new long-nose vw alt, added washers (tractor supply) and used my original pulley.


After measuring, I think the GP688 would have worked.
 

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I'm sure there are other pulleys that will work, some have a smaller OD so they would spin faster. I settled on this one on a guess from a vague reference from another forum - and it was cheap on ebay.
Some of the prices for vw pulleys are ridiculous. There is no keyway in the pulley, but it doesn't slip. It does help having an impact doing the pulley swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ooooo wish my engine bay was that clean. Mine came as an oily mess...can't do a thing (well...almost) without getting smeared in black. Would require complete engine removal to clean up.
Seeing that image helps immensely since I see the setup is identical.

At 14$ what the hell. If doesn't work for this...be handy elsewhere. If nothing else I saw elsewhere someone took their long snout pulley and hacked it down. As the as the crank//WP pulleys are wider and use belt that is a tad wider...the original pulley (at least on mine) is 2-piece so it could be shimmed to permit proper seating.

Will get the stuff needed to do the change while the current fix will do for now.

I'll check the other alts I have but I think they are all the short shaft type. Maybe I can get compound core charge credit somewhere...PP maybe? :p
 

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I've fixed/rigged a lot of stuff on that car. Gets cleaner all the time, but rust is all that really concerns me. Oily mess actually helps, but if I get a good opportunity I treat the rust and use some kind of corrosion inhibitor.

Not having a/c on there frees up a lot. I'm pretty sure that if the single belt ever fails, you'll know it because the alternator light should come on. Changing it doesn't get any easier.

I keep a spare belt in the car because if that belt flies off- the engine will quickly overheat, since it is the only thing driving the waterpump.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Rust shouldn't be a problem on mine either. During one of the times I was under it it looked like someone had coated the underside. On top of that is fine oil coat that finds its way back.
Don't doubt about the "when the belt flies". My trail rig has 1 V-belt that is probably 6ft around...have a couple spares for it. My beater Yota p/u for a time when it was my A to B...the fins in the w/p had deteriorated by about 90+%...and shockingly didn't have any overheating probably because (I think) I had the T-stat out...or it had healthy convection. This Mk1 at one point in "winter" here I had ran it for a month without realizing I'd forgotten to put the reservoir cap back on...NEVER overheated...has the constitution of a mule if I count the other things its survived.
 
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