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Discussion Starter #1
I have a metal tube and rubber line mixed coming off my aux air valve...can i replace this all with a rubber vacuum line? a large one ofcourse.

The whole vacuum system in this car is a mess and some things have been plugged yada yada, im trying to get it back to normal and ive so far updated all of the connection that were in the car.. only thing im not sure of is should there be 2 vacuum ports coming off the bottom of the throttle body..? i see two straight shafts off of the bottom but i cant see what they would be for..thanks in advance!:Ciao:
 

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www.cabby-info.com Kammy has the vac routing there. Yes it is a Cabriolet, but hey it is a CIS on 89 and below. Also stating the year of your car in the post helps us help you a bit faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
www.cabby-info.com Kammy has the vac routing there. Yes it is a Cabriolet, but hey it is a CIS on 89 and below. Also stating the year of your car in the post helps us help you a bit faster.

Sorry i thought i had it in there! its a 1981 Rabbit GTI, the car itself has been changed around i believe, by someone who obviously knew what they were doing or atleast i think so... even the fuse panel has been altered:eek: (I have a row of relays mounted just behind the knee bar?!) and my distributor has one vacuum line and i cant see a port for another on it anywhere.. so its taking some time to get it running right im in the process of cleaning the fuel distrobutor and ive ordered new injectors because spraying them clean was not working at all, seems it all got clogged when i changed the fuel filter:Ciao:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sorry for the double post but the AC has also been removed in the car so thats causing for some of my vacuum confusion alot of stuff is missing (boost valve) and some things are blocked off, like one of the two ports on the front of the intake and i believe what looks like the head vacuum line(backside of the head just below the valve cover coming straight up)
 

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I have a metal tube and rubber line mixed coming off my aux air valve...can i replace this all with a rubber vacuum line? a large one of course.
Off the AAV, driver's side, is a metal pipe with rubber hose connectors... that's stock/normal. Unless there is something faulty with the metal pipe, leave it alone. Replace the rubber connectors if they're cracked, hard as a rock, etc.

The whole vacuum system in this car is a mess and some things have been plugged yada yada, im trying to get it back to normal and ive so far updated all of the connection that were in the car.. only thing im not sure of is should there be 2 vacuum ports coming off the bottom of the throttle body..? i see two straight shafts off of the bottom but i cant see what they would be for..thanks in advance!:Ciao:
A) No GTI existed in the USA until the 1983 model year.

B) Because of "A", it's important to list your location (Canada, Europe, USA, etc.) and the engine code of your car's engine.

Each engine has its own vacuum set-up. I can post the following diagram



but it's for, specifically, the 1.7L EN engines.

C) Because you say it's an "'81 GTI", it could very well have been a plain-Jane Rabbit that was turned into a GTI, which means it would, most likely, have the 1.8L JH engine in it (and it sounds like it was converted to CE1 electrics), which has slightly different vacuum routing:



D) You might also post clear and detailed photos of your engine bay (and relay panel) so we can better help you sort things out.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got everything back together today, put fresh gas in it and went to start it, acted like it was going to start but then my battery died from it being out in the cold and worked on, hooked a jump box up and when it tried to start it sounded like the starter grinded after i let go of the key...now i try to start it and it wont do anything at the turn of the key, all i hear now if the fuel pump/fuel distro....i am at a complete loss. i just replaced the battery ground cables today..
 

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Ignition switches go bad all the time.

Turn the key to run, Open the hood and jumper the Solenoid on the Starter to +12V, if the engine turns over and starts, then it is the ignition switch that is bad.
If the Starter don't spin then it is the Starter that is bad.
 

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Look for the engine # on the block, not the head. Mine is on a little flat spot behind the upper radiator hose like where your switches are in the picture. Mine is JH.

If your battery is more than about 4-5 yrs old( or looks old) I would ask Santa for a new one. Winter is real hard on old batteries.

Those boxes only work real well if there is some charge lift in the battery. I would get the OLD battery charged up and do some more tests.

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Look for the engine # on the block, not the head. Mine is on a little flat spot behind the upper radiator hose like where your switches are in the picture. Mine is JH.

If your battery is more than about 4-5 yrs old( or looks old) I would ask Santa for a new one. Winter is real hard on old batteries.

Those boxes only work real well if there is some charge lift in the battery. I would get the OLD battery charged up and do some more tests.

Rich
i hooked up a newer box and it tried to start so i am charging the box to full and it shopuld pull it, battery has juice but only about 8V currently, im just hoping it runs when charged, i also think i resolved a major leak at the airplate when i realized it had not been sealing fully on the back side
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Looks like my head and block have the same number, i forget now but something along the lines on 103XXX373H but it looks like my block number is above the top hose coming out of my water pump so i cant see all of it
 

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Looks like my head and block have the same number, i forget now but something along the lines on 103XXX373H but it looks like my block number is above the top hose coming out of my water pump so i cant see all of it
Your Rabbit now has a 1.8L engine in it, running what appears to be CIS-basic. All 1.8L engines were factory-equipped with CIS-lambda, so that engine has parts that are not being used (lambda thermo probe) and parts that are missing (idle boost valve, OXS, frequency valve, etc.). In other words, a PO had to replace the original 1.6L and decided to put in a 1.8L for more power and used the 1.6L's guts, while making a lot of the vacuum system & evap emissions stuff disappear. This means you won't find a vacuum diagram for your specific set-up (and, as a side note, it won't pass emissions tests in a lot of places), unless someone out there has the same swap and kindly drew one up.

That relay panel appears to be the typical American-built Rabbit panel, but with some creative PO wiring.

The engine code is located at the top of the engine block, at cylinder #3, just below the spark plug. The 6-digit number after the code is the engine's serial number. You may need to take a wire brush to the area in order to read the code.



If the engine is a JH, you can look for the part number on the front of the cylinder head, above cylinder #1:
026103373F (non-air shrouded injectors; solid lifters)
026103373H (air shrouded injectors; solid lifters)
026103373AA (air shrouded injectors; hydraulic lifters)

A battery is down to 0% state of charge at a mere 11.7 volts and is considered to be fully discharged from that point onward. A battery at 8 volts will have a hard time accepting and holding a charge. So, you're probably looking at needing a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Your Rabbit now has a 1.8L engine in it, running what appears to be CIS-basic. All 1.8L engines were factory-equipped with CIS-lambda, so that engine has parts that are not being used (lambda thermo probe) and parts that are missing (idle boost valve, OXS, frequency valve, etc.). In other words, a PO had to replace the original 1.6L and decided to put in a 1.8L for more power and used the 1.6L's guts, while making a lot of the vacuum system & evap emissions stuff disappear. This means you won't find a vacuum diagram for your specific set-up (and, as a side note, it won't pass emissions tests in a lot of places), unless someone out there has the same swap and kindly drew one up.

That relay panel appears to be the typical American-built Rabbit panel, but with some creative PO wiring.

The engine code is located at the top of the engine block, at cylinder #3, just below the spark plug. The 6-digit number after the code is the engine's serial number. You may need to take a wire brush to the area in order to read the code.



If the engine is a JH, you can look for the part number on the front of the cylinder head, above cylinder #1:
026103373F (non-air shrouded injectors; solid lifters)
026103373H (air shrouded injectors; solid lifters)
026103373AA (air shrouded injectors; hydraulic lifters)

A battery is down to 0% state of charge at a mere 11.7 volts and is considered to be fully discharged from that point onward. A battery at 8 volts will have a hard time accepting and holding a charge. So, you're probably looking at needing a new battery.
With the car running CIS-basic does it need things like the WUR? im trying to figure out the fuel system issues and get the car running correctly, any help would be great, and is there any way to confirm its running on bsic
 

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With the car running CIS-basic does it need things like the WUR?
Yes; even CIS-basic uses a control pressure regulator (proper name for it). However, from what I understand, early versions of the CPR incorporate a vacuum line, later ones do not.

The easiest way to differentiate between CIS-basic and CIS-lambda, is that basic does not have the following:
■ Frequency valve (located behind, but attached to it via fuel lines, the fuel distributor)
■ Jetronic ECU (black box located up under the dash, passenger side)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
yeah i dont see a box under the dash on the passenger side and no frequency valve... so is it safe to assume that my CPR could be messing up how my car runs..? since there is no vaccum line to it although i do have a black ECU box outside of the car that says jectronic on it..but im assuming the boxes we are talking about are different

and i have confirmed that the block has a JH on it


EDIT: IT STARTED..and then died as usual, now to keep it running i MUST be on the gas and it still runs very poorly, and it seems that it doesnt matter what i do with the gas pedal, it acts like its not doing anything and if i floor if it will start revving up about 5-8 seconds later so very delayed..im running out of ideas

Here is whats going on...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WXXWBXQ3us&feature=youtu.be
I just want her to run =[ i didnt get enough drive time..
 
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