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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
wheres the dope write up on how to replace brake pads/calipers? cant figure out which pad is inboard and which is outboard, both have chamfers, neither have arrows. also, which anti rattle clip goes where? , how?

side note: any secret technique for getting the new ball joint back into the knukle?


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Either side is inside or outside.

If once you get the pads on and the calipers on if they are the wrong pads the caliper won't fit.
If you have Solid Rotors, then you have to have solid rotor pads.
If you have vented rotors you have to use vented rotor pads which are thinner.
Some Auto Parts shops have the wrong listing for pads, so I always spec the 83 rabbit GTI.

The Clips go on the bottom and top edge of the rotor, they are keyed so that there is a top and a bottom.
The Clips tang should be in the middle of the rotor edge.
I use Disk quiet on the fingers of the caliper and the piston lip to prevent chatter or squeal.

From www.cabby-info.com which is a good place to locate topics.

HOW TO REPLACE FRONT PADS Anti Rattle clips.

How to replace the front pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so it really doesnt matter which pad goes where? they are completely different shapes. everything is unvented here, and we're dealing with refurbished kelsey hayes calipers and new pagid pads. the pagid instructions specify that one is for inboard and one outboard. cant figure out how to tell which is which. does it really not matter?



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Roundy ones on the piston, Thinner ones on the outside.
 

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If you don't ever want to take it apart again.....
Once the guide pis are set and torqued, they won't come out.
They make a high temp grease, that you can use for the slides, (most places sell it in little packages near the checkout which is what I prefer.
I also use Red Brake GOO on the fingers of the caliper and the piston ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
just in sight of the finish line after replacing just about everything other than whats in my engine compartment, (besides a freeze plug) one of my caliper guide pins wont hold the 30ft/lbs of torque, now the hole is stripped clean. is there a heli coil fix for this, or am i looking at scavenging around the junk yards in... california? cant explain how bummed i was when this happened, after more than a month i was ready to be back on the road. glad the failure didnt happen while driving i guess.


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I wouldn't heli-coil only as a last resort.
I am sure that you scour the WTB's in the classified here, vwvortex, Thesamba, or flea-bay.
Email partsplaceinc.com, as they salvage rabbit and cabbies. He would either have it or know where he can get it.

Calipers aren't that expensive, I think the last ones I bought were about 30 apiece.
The pins aren't more than 5-10.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
just finished following the procedure for adjusting the parking brake. i put in two new cables, new shoes and cylinders but not new springs, (which im starting to regret already)

after the parking brake adjustment was complete and i disengaged the brake, the rear wheels still have a bit of noticeable resistance from the shoes, i can hear them rubbing and feel that its not turning freely. before i drop the car off its stands, i wanted to check if yol thought this would sort itself out on the road, or if this is maybe the fault of tired little springs in there. i just dont want my fuel economy to be chopped in half by a dinky little spring.


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I think that you may have your parking brake cables too tight.
The hardware on the rears is pretty tough. I had the same hardware on my Diesel rabbit for 20 years.
If you doubt the cables or the hardware, then replacing them will ease your mind do-it.

IT is fairly easy to back off the Brake cables. They do stretch over time and tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
now that the engine runs, the car won't move! i might be losing my mind. i just did everything by the book. everything related to the wheels was just replaced, by the book. i tried to stay as oem as possible. where did i go wrong? front wheels wont turn, they dragged on the concrete when i used my truck to pull the car n neutral. i removed the wheels, compressed the calipers by hand and can get the pads to wiggle around enough to see light between their contact surfaces and the brake disc/rotor, but nothing moves out of this deathgrip.

why wont the rotor or my axles turn?

im in neutral, and i cant figure out what is holding my rotor from turning if its not the calipers and pads. i guess the next step is to remove the calipers and pads. help!

also, i backed the e brake adjustment way off until completely slack, and there is still a little resistance and rubbing noise, on one side more than the other.


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For the rears take a tire off and rotate one of the bolt holes to get to the adjuster on which ever side is dragging.
Using a flat blade screw driver through on of the holes in the Brake Drum Push the adjuster up.

For the Front, all I can say is to remove your front pads and see if the rotors turn then.
Then take a photo of your brake set up. Including the pads. I guess we need to see if you have solid rotors or vented.
as the pads for the vented rotor will work on a solid, but a solid pad on a vented rotor won't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my pads and my rotors are all solid. so if i remove my calipers, and the rotors still dont turn, then what?

and if they do turn, how do i reinstall the calipers if not exactly as Bentley and common sense dictates?


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I have seen caliper slides that bind and when you press the brakes they won't release.
I have seen front brake lines that failed internally and wouldn't release pressure.

You can remove the calipers or the caliper and frames, if the axles spin, then your tranny is good.
IF the axles still don't spin then your transmission is locked up.

OHHHHHHHHHH wait. Did you replace the front wheel bearings?
There is a known issue with the spring clips. If your didn't reuse the old ones some of the newer kits have Spring clips that have a "too big of ear" where the hole is. You don't see it as a issue until you get it back together and Torqued that the CV is now bound.



Here is the larger eared that don't work compared to the flat ear that does work.


The issue is on the inside, you haven't ruined the bearing, need to loosen the nut on the axle and push the cv back a wee bit, if it spins, then you have the wrong c-clips, usually it is the CV side that the issue is with...Just remove the clip and replace it with the correct one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
this clip business is total boloney! how does one make up to date edits to those wheel bearing write-ups to give warning of this? and germanautoparts and the rest of em need to have warnings too. im bummed


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this clip business is total boloney! how does one make up to date edits to those wheel bearing write-ups to give warning of this? and germanautoparts and the rest of em need to have warnings too. im bummed
I will send a email to the one that I usually refer folks to.

so this culprit clip is the one that retains the inboard side of the wheel bearing inside the bearing housing?
Yes that is the one that is usually the binder side, the front one if wrong will not bind as the Hub doesn't get near it.
So it is the inboard side that gives you grief because it hits the CV flange.

I am sorry that I didn't think on it....
When I change my bearings, and I have done a few, I just buy the bearings and re-use the clips so I never have had that issue. One bearing that I bought came as a "kit" and I caught it the moment I put them side by side.

Also after getting the nut torqued I usually spin the wheel.... So I know that it is good to go.
Then we would have it down to the brakes....if it was still binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so i loosened the axle nut and sure enough, everything spins. i backed in the outer cv joint as much as possible, and found that it was not binding on the c clip, but rather that the shoulder of the outboard-most cv joint flange was binding tightly on the bearing housing. i then measured my old cv joint, to find it was closer to 80mm in diameter than the 90 of my new ones. ###K!

unfortunately, i trusted gap's database instead of measuring my old cv joints. makes a good case for ordering parts after taking your car apart, not before, thinking you might save time.

anyone want a pair of pre greased 90mm outer cv joints?


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