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Replacing your rear window in a Cabriolet top.

Tape Measure
Mason Twine
2 flat blade screwdrivers.
Small flat blade (jewelers)
Diagonal cutters
Warm Soapy water
Oil (for hinges)
Sharp Knife
Stapler (powered or hand)
Small Hammer and Anvil
Clear or colored RTV (clear works good on white or non-black tops)


From Inside the car, remove the 2 defroster wires from the glass.
Push the wires through the seal at the holes, unwind the wires off the sides and out the holts at the bottom.
The wires should be wire tied at the hinges.

Lift up the outer edge of the Seal insert your flat blade between the window seal and the window frame at the rear, start at the corner.

Then after you get it started, insert your second flat blade to keep the seal out.

While you are gently prying up and out on the seal in a rocking motion gently. If your top is off, then reach around the frame and undo the seal from the inside lip.
If it is on, be careful not to pierce the vinyl fabric.

Using a rocking motion with the screwdriver you will get the window out remember to
unwind the defroster wires gingerly out of the gasket remove the plastic covers off the wire ends

The window will pop right out, you may have to work your flat blade down and around a bit.

You wil now see the 200 staples that hold the top to the frame....

You have to use a jewelers screwdriver to pry every one of the staples up and out if you are removing your top.
Use a pair of diagonal cutters to help pull the bitter ends if they are broken. You have to get all the staple bits out.

With all the staple bits out, verify that your frame is loose at the hinges as you need to use the oil to free them up.
Work the oil in the joint a drop move, a drop move till it is free.

Now turn your attention to the Frame, measure it diagonally to verify that it is square.
Run your hand over the inside carefully to feel for broken staple bits, and remove them or use a Dremel to grind them flat.
Repair any cracks in the frame plastic with rtv as a filler.

Remove the Gasket from the rear window glass.
Clean the edges of the glass use a razor knife to get all the dirt and goo, then use brake clean on a rag
to clean the edges.

Clean all the goo and plumbers seal off the gasket lips, I have found that if I soak it in wd-40
that tends to soften it up, then using wd40 and a rag covers flat blade screw driver to I can GENTLY scrape
the goo out of the seal wipers. Use a warm hot soapy solution to fully clean all residual goo out, and allow to dry.
Do not forget to clean the inside glass groove too.

Return the seal to the glass, the holes are on the left or right inside and bottom, and the defroster lines are inside
Use a 45-60 degree angle to return the seal to the glass, an it will go on rather nicely.

Returning to the Frame, if you aren't removing the top, then take the time to verify that your
staples aren't all rusted and or broken. Replace any that aren't flush to the frame and tight to the top.

Run your hand around it to feel for snaggles.
If you find any then Smack them flat with your hammer and anvil or punch.

With your top fully closed, and your window isn't installed you will see this.

Find out where your frame is in relation to the top.

If your frame is loose at the top or the straps are cut, then you will need to replace the straps

If your frame is in position, and you have found the outline of it. Then carefully make a X cut in the vinyl to
DO NOT GO TO THE FAR EDGES Stay about 6 inches from the outer edges of the frame.

Take time to prepare the frame...if this is a new to your car and the rear window was never installed.
With your tape measure measure the corners of the frame in relation to the car, you have to get this measurement to be +or- about 1/16
so the window will look square.

If it is close then you can get it right on with the staples.

With your tape measure pull the material taught on a corner, and shoot a few staples in it to hold the
position. Get it right, as in reposition and re-shoot if needed.

Do the other corner.

I have found that if I can't keep tension on the top to staple it all the way across so I set all 4 corners
tight, and go back later to get the remainder. This gives the top uniformity.

Set and cut the inside corners a little at a time
Do not go all the way to the frame with your cuts.

Force the material into the corner with the stapler and shoot.

Fully seat all the staples and smack any flat with your hammer and anvil.

You can now trim the excess material off even with the inside lip of the frame.
Feel for snaggle staples at the same time.

Lay a bead of silicone over the staples and into the lip of the frame.
This will seal the holes for the staples, and provide a water barrier for the rubber after the window is installed.
It helps to fill voids between your gasket, and the staples, then helps you to install the rear window.

Take your masons twine and wind it into the inner lip of the gasket on the window so that you have 2 wrappings DO not Cross the
cords, and remember which is the start and ending string.

Here is where you need a helper is nice to have, but you can do it alone.

Insert the glass and gasket into the lower bit of the frame with the strings on the inside and press it firmly in all the way around,
with the flat of your hands keep pressure on the glass and seat it almost fully.

From inside the car have your helper slowly unwind the string, at the same time you are pressing the gasket with the palm of your hands on the outside.
The unwinding string will pull the gasket in to the inside of the car and seat it firmly on the inside lip. Wipe off any excess silicone that may ooze either on the inside or the outside.

The glass should be square.
Now from the inside of the car

Place the defroster wires back into the holes in the gasket and then under the gasket and back out and connect to the defroster terminal then place the plastic cover back on.

Stand back and admire.
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