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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About three months ago, I tried following Vince Waldon's DIY on timing my '82 Diesel Caddy. I didn't have the correct adapter for my timing gauge and just eye balled it. Yesterday I attempted to get the rabbit running after sitting since then and it starts up and runs (little louder than before)

I got the correct VAG Snap-On adapter and my dial gauge. I'm following this DIY and am getting a bit confused.

Does this reading come out to be that the IP is timed to 1.23? I really just need verification on #3 that the gauge (not only just the dial indicator but the shaft itself) is pressed back in and dialed into 0

Here are my readings- if I'm doing something wrong- please let me know. Much appreciated!

1) Set everything to TDC- preload the gauge and set to 0 (I used 6mm preload since the gauge fitting fits better in the holder with a little more than 2mm)



2) Turned the crank counterclockwise, until the gauge stopped. Stopped at 7.35 (Moved forward 1.35mm)



3) Pushed in the gauge and set to 6mm and zeroed in the dial



4) Turned clockwise back to TDC and the dial read 7.23 (Moved forward 1.23mm)

 

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If I'm reading correctly at step 3 you did too much but I may be confused.

At step 3 all you should be doing is zeroing out the face. Don't mess with anything else on the gauge.

Then step 4 gives you from zero, what your ip is set at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Olbedhead and Dubsy-

On Step #3- If I only dial in the gauge face to 0 (and not the shaft)- when I turn back to TDC the gauge doesn't move at all.... The DIY also states that it should move and that would give your reading, but it doesn't.

And I am using the cam lock tool too at TDC
 

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Then it's possible that your previous method was working. A 1.23 reading isn't really crazy or anything. I don't have the Bentley in front of me but I think spec is like .92 ??? So it could be a little past. It doesn't take much to be off .2
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So after a few months of the caddy sitting in my driveway with a too advanced IP...I tried to tackle this again...with a video! Take a look below and please let me know what I am doing wrong.

It just seems to me that the pump actually moves in-wards when rotating it back to TDC....which would make the dial gauge sit there and not get a reading. As Olbedhed stated and as Vince Waldon states- all I should be doing is zero'ing out the gauge face not the gauge.

Let me know what anyone thinks- this has been driving me insane! I appreciate any feedback!

 

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As Dubsy said, but I'd guess you are doing it correctly since you seem to have done it a couple of times before.

That issue with the gauge not moving is crazy sauce. The fact that you had to push the pin on the gauge tells me that maybe the gauge is broken? Does it actuate fine without any pressure? spring returns?

Another way to time it, if the gauge is faulty, it to watch closely to see when the gauge stops moving going forward. That is going to be your current timing reading. 1.35 or so is what it looked like in the vid. might take you a couple of tries doing it that way, but you can reset it to TDC and move the pump a bit to watch that number change.

Still though, if the gauge is faulty, I wouldn't really trust it to set at all. Could be a stuck cam plate in the pump too, but seems less likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Finally figured it out!!! So what I was actually doing wrong was turning the crank back (counter clockwise) way too far. If you start to turn it backwards and go too far too quick, the gauge WILL keep moving and then stop, making you think you were doing it correctly (at about less than 1 full backwards rotation)

I realized that I was turning it back a little too far- to a point where the correct process is turning it backwards/forwards is a VERY small amount. I took a pic below of the cam shaft to show where the gauge stops moving when moving it correctly. If Vince included this with his DIY it would have saved me a butt load of time.

Timed the '82 1.6d to 89mm- which is the higher-end of the Bentley .83-.90 range.

Thanks for everyone's input- I'm glad to have this thing running great now!

 

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COOLNESS
 

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Finally figured it out!!! So what I was actually doing wrong was turning the crank back (counter clockwise) way too far. If you start to turn it backwards and go too far too quick, the gauge WILL keep moving and then stop, making you think you were doing it correctly (at about less than 1 full backwards rotation)

I realized that I was turning it back a little too far- to a point where the correct process is turning it backwards/forwards is a VERY small amount. I took a pic below of the cam shaft to show where the gauge stops moving when moving it correctly. If Vince included this with his DIY it would have saved me a butt load of time.

Timed the '82 1.6d to 89mm- which is the higher-end of the Bentley .83-.90 range.

Thanks for everyone's input- I'm glad to have this thing running great now!

Thanks for this post. I'm having a similar issue. When I rotate the crank CCW the dial does not move at all. I have to rotate it approx 180 degrees before the dial starts to move. I've only done this a few times in the past but I follow the Bentley and Vance's instructions and it has always worked.

I almost think the IP is 180 degrees off but the pulley and pump are aligned at 12:00 with the pin in with cam and fly wheel at TDC.

Any help would be apprecieated.
 
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