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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody had trouble seating the main bearings on there dowel pins.I get the first one in then cannot get the other two in.I took one of the dowel pins out and put it in thr bearing hole and it is pretty loose.thinking of making my own pins to make more of a tight fit.even if i mark the bearings still cannot get them seated,and then i end up making the hole bigger by turning it so much.anybody have any thoughts on this.thanks
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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Photos would be very helpful here.

Thanks
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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The dowels and dowel holes in the bearings look like they are the right direction, all facing forward (flywheel end). The dowel at the flywheel end looks a bit longer than the others. Is it seated all the way into the case? Might pull it out and make sure no trash is in the hole.

If you take out all the dowel pins, will the crank seat into the case easily? Taking out the dowels and trying to seat the bearings/crank will let you know if the bearings actually fit the case. If the bearings are too big (OD) then the bearings will not seat.

Besides the rear bearing that is captive by the gears, can you seat the other bearings in the case without the crank? If the bearing outside diameters are correct for the size of the bearing seats in the case, the bearings should just fit in the case snugly.

A good test if the bearing ODs are correct is to put one of the split bearings into its seat and make sure the edges of the bearing are exactly at the height of the case half. If the edges are lower than the case machined surface, then the bearing OD is too small and will be very loose. If the edges are higher than the case machined surface the bearings are oversized (maybe .010 or more too big).

If the bearings are the correct size (OD) for what the case is machined for (STD/stock, or bigger if align bored) then the bearings will fit just snug once they are gently turned to line up the dowel holes with the dowels.

It is ok if the dowels are slightly loose as they are there to locate the bearings properly in the case. They should also keep the bearings from spinning in the case if the bearings somehow seize up slightly on the crank (overheat or run out of oil). This protects the engine case from damage.

Regards
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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Probably should have pointed out that you could use the other half of the case to try out the bearing tests since the other half does not have any dowels. The entire crank with bearings should seat without problems since there is no dowels to worry about.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The dowels and dowel holes in the bearings look like they are the right direction, all facing forward (flywheel end). The dowel at the flywheel end looks a bit longer than the others. Is it seated all the way into the case? Might pull it out and make sure no trash is in the hole.

If you take out all the dowel pins, will the crank seat into the case easily? Taking out the dowels and trying to seat the bearings/crank will let you know if the bearings actually fit the case. If the bearings are too big (OD) then the bearings will not seat.

Besides the rear bearing that is captive by the gears, can you seat the other bearings in the case without the crank? If the bearing outside diameters are correct for the size of the bearing seats in the case, the bearings should just fit in the case snugly.

A good test if the bearing ODs are correct is to put one of the split bearings into its seat and make sure the edges of the bearing are exactly at the height of the case half. If the edges are lower than the case machined surface, then the bearing OD is too small and will be very loose. If the edges are higher than the case machined surface the bearings are oversized (maybe .010 or more too big).

If the bearings are the correct size (OD) for what the case is machined for (STD/stock, or bigger if align bored) then the bearings will fit just snug once they are gently turned to line up the dowel holes with the dowels.

It is ok if the dowels are slightly loose as they are there to locate the bearings properly in the case. They should also keep the bearings from spinning in the case if the bearings somehow seize up slightly on the crank (overheat or run out of oil). This protects the engine case from damage.

Regards
thanks for the info.the crank was turned to .0250s so the bearins are .025 os.
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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The crank was turned so the inside of the bearings should be smaller but I thought your problem was with the outside of the bearings possibly being too big and not seating. Can you compare the outside size of the old bearings with the outside size of the new bearings?

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The crank was turned so the inside of the bearings should be smaller but I thought your problem was with the outside of the bearings possibly being too big and not seating. Can you compare the outside size of the old bearings with the outside size of the new bearings?

Regards
Hi i have thr right size bearings bexause all the rods turn freely,but i got the one dowel pin down a little bit further and i got all the bearings seated, put the top halph on got it half way down checked the crank and it stilled turned as soon as i got it all the war down could not turn the crank.
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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If the case half is just sitting on the other half and it will not turn then you have an interference problem. If you tightened up the bolts holding the halves together and it won't turn, then the bearing outside diameter is too big, and you are crushing the bearings against the crank. If you have the case halves tightened, to torque specs, you should be able to put the generator pulley on the crank and turn the crank by hand. Might be slightly tight but without the pistons installed, you are just turning the crank within the crank bearings.

Only interference problems you might have is either with the distributor drive as it is driven by the brass gear on the crank (you did install the distributor drive before putting in the the crank, right?). It could be stuck or the washers could have moved and pinned against the brass gear. Alternately it could be the rods caught at an angle inside the case as the case half is lowered over the rods on the side of the engine that is up.
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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Huntlu, Any progress on this?
 
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