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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Items purchased:
IE plate: $73.00 (shipped)
5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local)
Universal Tee: $5.00 (local)
Clamps: $4.00 (local)


I removed this the other night while doing a transmission swap:


You can remove the pump without removing the transmission. Google search it to find the thread on vortex. Be sure to clean any debris from around the mating surface.


Here's the removed pump. Note that this pump was not leaking, however, they are apparently prone to leaking and causing a mess. There are some people that just delete this component all together. The only function this pump has is to supply vacuum to the brake booster while the engine is running. As you know you can get vacuum elsewhere.


I went with the Integrated Engineering block-off plate. It is a far superior build to the other Spulen option that is available on the market.


Installed:


I will say that the Spulen Vacuum Pump Delete Kit comes with a customized PCV hose that allows you to plug the brake booster line directly into. The PCV hose is a good place to get vacuum from, however, it's also a good place to get oil vapor drop-out from too. I don't need this oil trailing down to my brake booster and fouling things up.

So I chose to tie in to a different vacuum line. The N80 Purge Valve vacuum line.

This line is directly on top of the intake manifold away from any potential oil drainage.


To tie into the line you're going to need a Vacuum Tee. I found this at the auto parts store:


Remove the parts of the Tee that you won't be using:


You'll also need to slice off the hose going to the brake booster check valve. You'll end up with this:



This is a convenient place to tie in:


Simple enough:
You may need some Vaseline to get the N80 hoses to fit. But the 5/16" hose fits the brake booster check valve and universal tee perfectly.


Just use some small clamps to secure everything down and you should be good to go. Don't worry about the small bracket that was holding the harness in the first photograph. You just remove that completely. That fat harness isn't going anywhere.

Good luck.
 

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My vacuum pump is leaking and I have already ordered my spulen delete kit. I chose spulen kit because I know they have upgraded their plate since you posted this and have fixed all the leak faults with it. Now, however, I’m worried that running the vacuum from the pcv will result in a leak... should I do it your way @le0n ?
 

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Excellent post. I followed this and no issues so far. Only thing different I did was used a brass tee instead of plastic. I am curious though what did you do with the wire loom and bracket that mount with the bolt? With the ie plate it doesn’t really fit. I have the automatic version of the 2.5 so maybe it’s a little different than yours.
 

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^^ Yep.

All is still good with the setup.
Great post! I've replaced the front seal O-ring in my vacuum pump but I know it's just a matter of time before it fails again. It looks like I will be doing this job.
Does the air filter/beauty cover for the engine still fit? It looks like it should.
Likewise, does removing the wire harness bracket from the vacuum pump cause any problem with wire harness after this job?
 

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I did the above IE Blocking Plate/Vacuum Pump Delete job a week ago with the same vacuum source for the brake booster. I can't feel any difference in the brake pedal or stopping distance with about 200 miles on this system.
While I was at it, I removed the throttle body and cleaned it on both sides, plus replacing the gasket to the intake manifold.
I can't tell if the car runs any better but I feel warm and fuzzy all over.
 

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UPDATE on the IE Blocking Plate/Vacuum Pump Delete job after a week and about 300 miles. Brake pedal is still hard with the same amount of stopping power as I had before with the vacuum pump. Still no leaks. I'm very pleased with the results. Also, IE has contacted me several times to see if I'm happy with their product. What's not to like?
 

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UPDATE number 2 on the IE Blocking Plate/Vacuum Pump Delete job after about 5000 miles and I'm happy to say that all is well. I have no leaks and the braking performance/pedal feel are exactly as before deleting the vacuum pump. YES, I do recommend this mod!
 

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Glad to see everyone doing good with the modification, will be back with my results once the Part from IE . for OP, did you get a new n80hose for brakes ? i Saw Boomer mention getting a new Throttle Body hose, just trying too do everything needed in 1 go around (Probably not possible to things in 1 day with Volkswagen constantly failing parts lol)
 

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Items purchased:
IE plate: $73.00 (shipped)
5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local)
Universal Tee: $5.00 (local)
Clamps: $4.00 (local)


I removed this the other night while doing a transmission swap:


You can remove the pump without removing the transmission. Google search it to find the thread on vortex. Be sure to clean any debris from around the mating surface.


Here's the removed pump. Note that this pump was not leaking, however, they are apparently prone to leaking and causing a mess. There are some people that just delete this component all together. The only function this pump has is to supply vacuum to the brake booster while the engine is running. As you know you can get vacuum elsewhere.


I went with the Integrated Engineering block-off plate. It is a far superior build to the other Spulen option that is available on the market.


Installed:


I will say that the Spulen Vacuum Pump Delete Kit comes with a customized PCV hose that allows you to plug the brake booster line directly into. The PCV hose is a good place to get vacuum from, however, it's also a good place to get oil vapor drop-out from too. I don't need this oil trailing down to my brake booster and fouling things up.

So I chose to tie in to a different vacuum line. The N80 Purge Valve vacuum line.

This line is directly on top of the intake manifold away from any potential oil drainage.


To tie into the line you're going to need a Vacuum Tee. I found this at the auto parts store:


Remove the parts of the Tee that you won't be using:


You'll also need to slice off the hose going to the brake booster check valve. You'll end up with this:



This is a convenient place to tie in:


Simple enough:
You may need some Vaseline to get the N80 hoses to fit. But the 5/16" hose fits the brake booster check valve and universal tee perfectly.


Just use some small clamps to secure everything down and you should be good to go. Don't worry about the small bracket that was holding the harness in the first photograph. You just remove that completely. That fat harness isn't going anywhere.

Good luck.
Just let me say you did great job in this page w/the issue vacuum pump leak Could you tell me a difference between Automatic vs manual transmission in 2.5L ..
Because my one is 2008 Rabbit Mk5 2.5L auto trans I wants do the swamp but prefert to make sure first ?..
thanks in advance for any help in this matter !.. appreciate Alex
 

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Just let me say you did great job in this page w/the issue vacuum pump leak Could you tell me a difference between Automatic vs manual transmission in 2.5L ..
Because my one is 2008 Rabbit Mk5 2.5L auto trans I wants do the swamp but prefer to make sure first ?..
thanks in advance for any help in this matter !.. appreciate Alex
I have also done this modification on my 06 Jetta Auto 2.5L about 200 Miles ago, all is well except when i was refilling the oil lost at the very end, i didn't use a funnel (silly me for rushing lol) and ruined my starter and had to replace that as well. But the auto trans is a little more difficult to do because of the gear shift assembly sitting on top of the transmission is right in the way of the vacuum pump, so unless you want to move your transmission, you will have to remove this piece and carefully reassemble the exact same way you put together, Le0n took a different approach because he already had the transmission off or partially off so he has more room. i can provide you detailed instructions i printed from Boomer Guy on how to do this and the tools you will need. 2006 MK5 VW Jetta 2.5L Vacuum Pump Leak | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
 

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thanks for this writeup OP. i did exactly as your diagrams, but for the life of me can't get the engine cover back on - the intake hose on the bottom side of the cover keeps getting in the way. just a heads up for anyone doing this. i might have to get hoses for the n80 valve (I used 3/8 hose for the brake booster) and try re-routing with the universal tee elsewhere.
 

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Le0n: Absolutely fantastic write-up! It worked exactly as you described.

Everyone: How did you resolve securing the front bracket? The plate screws are not long enough so I could only attach the 10mm bolt. I'm worried about what it is supposed to secure moving excessively and the bracket scraping on the plate.
Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior
 

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Le0n: Absolutely fantastic write-up! It worked exactly as you described.

Everyone: How did you resolve securing the front bracket? The plate screws are not long enough so I could only attach the 10mm bolt. I'm worried about what it is supposed to secure moving excessively and the bracket scraping on the plate. View attachment 47620
You don't need the bracket. Remove it.
 
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