Using the T30 bit remove the screw holding the rotor.

Remove the rotor and note the 3 T30 screws holding the dust sheild. (Not required to remove for Rabbit brake replacement.)

Destroy the dust shield.

Unbolt 3 T30 screws and remove shield

Admire the caliper and carrier. Note 13mm and 15mm sizes

Loosen carrier/caliper bolts

 

Grab your caliper tool

Set properly into caliper to reset the piston. Note the piece between my fingers. You can tighten/loosed the tension when using/removing the tool.

 

Once the piston is compressed install the GTI carrier (if applicable) and install the new pads.

Install the rotor utilizing the T30 bolt again, and the caliper/carrier using the 14mm triple square bolts. (Be aware of the ABS sensor wire/connector. You do not want to have to replace this if you crack it with the breaker bar.)

 

Reinstall wheel/tire

Lower jack to torque down the lug bolts fully

Comparison of stock brakes and GTI brakes
Stock

GTI

Dont forget to pump the brake pedal to expand the caliper piston. You know it when the pedal gets hard. You also might want to let the car roll down the driveway a bit and then slam on the brakes. If you notice any liquid on the wheels, brakes or concrete you might have broken a brake line.

 

If I missed anything or you have any questions feel free to ask.

 

Hans if i may, any and all brake jobs ive ever done i always take the caliper off the carrier first, just makes it easier in the long run.

and im not so sure its safe to jack up the car on the control arm.

oh and do u have gti front rotors?

 

If you jack it up by the control arm all you're doing is compressing the suspension. Same as if you were driving around corners. I'm not lifting the whole car up by the arm, just enough to get the tire off the ground. This will also keep 3 wheels on the ground so you're working from a decently stable platform.

As far as the carrier/caliper question. I just found it easier to pull the caliper off than try to wiggle all of the tools behind the hub rotor and all of that.

Yes I do have GTI front rotors. However, I didn't think to get the weights of the rotors and carriers when I was messing with it.

 

I was asking about front gti rotors for one main reason, this is a bad mod for people who dont have them, when you go from 260mm to 286mm which are 2mm smaller than the rabbit fronts you change the desired effect of braking.

 

IE rears might overpower the fronts?

 

No dust shield in the rear?? Ehhhhhhh......

 

You got pricing on a set for me? I also need the tow hook cover for a GTI rear lower bumper.

 

Awesome DIY, I might use this in the future.

 

Update on the brakes. Make sure you're paying attention. I'm pretty soft when it comes to braking and I slowed down to turn off the highway and got a little surprise when I applied the brakes. They're significantly more aggressive than the stock Rabbit brakes.

 

where do you get the rear gti carriers?

 

ECS sells a kit that includes the carriers and rotors. Otherwise you'd have to get them from someone upgrading their GTI. They are pretty pricey purchased separately.

 

Great DIY, im definatly going to do this at some point.

 

Nice DIY Kiser!

I wanted to do this when i had my MKV, never happened though :-/

 

But you have a mkv again!

 

Might want to mention a brake pad bedding in procedure (especially if someone does all four at once). And you left off the part where you put gti dust shields back on!

 

Bed in varies by rotor/pads. The two most common procedures are 1) moderate driving for 400-500 miles while the pads/rotors develop a nice relationship, go out on a couple of dates, then hopefully at the end of the 500 miles end up with a nice even surface between them. (avoid heavy braking) 2) Moderate slowing method. Varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Accelerate to 30-40mph and gradually apply the brakes to slow to around 10 mph. Repeat this process several times allowing the brakes to cool between each braking session.

 

I like # 2. I start the procedure and drive for about 4 miles. Upon returning the customer is informed about proper break in (same as new vehicle) and away they go.

 

will the 15" steelies(winter mode) clear the rears? I know the GTI fronts don't clear, but have no clue about the rears. Anyone? My rears need replacing, and thinking I may go this route as well

 

GTI carriers and rotors won't clear the 15" steelies. Perhaps you could snag some 16" steelies off a jetta owner.. not sure if it'll clear those though.

 

can anyone confirm this as well? The rears only? I know the fronts won't clear... but I swear I read that the rears would clear.

 

I can check tonight when I get off work I have a 15 inch spare sitting in the garage.

 

I've heard it said by numerous ppl that the 15" steelies won't clear gti breaks, but that the 16" Jetta steelies will.

 

Thats cuz of the front brakes...312mm is like 12.5inches, add in caliper and the id of the 15" wheel isnt big enough to clear...

 

The GTI rears are the same size as the Rabbit fronts, so I don't think fitting a 15" steelie on there should be a problem. Though we'll let Hans test it out for us

 

It doesn't look like you used a jack stand. You may want to consider it. Cars are very heavy when they land on you and jacks do seep or fail.

 

This is true, but he wasn't lifting from the frame, he was lifting from the rear control arm.