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149K views 64 replies 31 participants last post by  le0n  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
As some of you know many a Rabbit don't have footwell lights installed from the factory. Why they deleted this I have no idea. Anyhoo...i'm doing this DIY as I work, so bear with me here! When you are done you will have fully FACTORY and functional footwell lights that turn on with doors open. They DO NOT turn on with the switch. That would NOT be factory ;)

Parts:
VAG-COM needed...find someone who will lend you theirs or purchase your own!

Two footwell lights P/N 7L0 947 415
4 wire ends with short leads P/N 000 979 131 A (A just means gold plated, you don't need it to be)
1 wire P/N 000 979 025 A (again, A not needed)
2 wire connectors for each light 1J0 971 972
1 Circle grommet for ground wire (found at local auto store)
2 wire connectors (Pink from dealer)
1 lighter (heats the shrik part of the Pink connectors for waterproof connections
Wire strippers
wire crimpers
Large roll of 0,5mm3 (20-18 gauge wire)
Small trim stick or screwdriver
T20 torx driver
This thread.

Here is a picture of all items needed:
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More soon to follow!!!

I just found that the pin on the CECM needs a special wire and I had to order it. It should be here on thursday or friday. I'll keep ya posted.

Here are a few more pictures. We will be using Connector "B" on the cecm (central electrics module, located above the brake pedal) and Pin # 7 on the connector will house the new wire that we will be installing!
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Remove the two T20 screws holding the cover on the driver side in.
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Look up and you will see this image..this is your CECM!!! Read the picture and unlock the connectors by pushing that tab toward the driver side until it clicks.
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Unlock the pin lock on the connector by prying at the bottom of the pink lock lever. This will let you push the new wire into the connector.
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Some basic prefab work before going in the car. Wiring not done of course.
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To maintain factory wiring diagrams, Pin 2 on the footwell light connector is power and pin 1 is ground...though it doesnt matter which way you have it.
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So now what you do is take the prefab harness you just saw and lay it in the car. The grounds are going to be grounded into a screw holding the dash in on either side of the car where you will see a cap. The driver cap houses the fusebox and the passenger side houses an empty space. Make sure the ground wires are at least 12 inches long. You will be running each lite to its own ground source for a total of TWO grounds. Make sure the wire going from pin B7 is about a foot long or SLIGHTLY less. Splice a wire that is long enough to span the car and give power to the passenger side...look at the picture for details. The other wire in this splice goes into the driver footwell light.

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the last two images are in a different post....


That that is the end of wiring up footwell lights designed to operate like factory! The bad part is you cannot have the wires in the same areas as the factory does it because the harness routes behind the whole dash and the grounds are welded connections. The best you can do is route the wires away from everything nad use zip ties to secure them out of the way.

The LAST and most important step is a Vag-Com. You need to go into 09 Central Electrics and click coding. Then go into long coding helper and view byte 0. Byte 0 shows up by default. The little checkbox that says "footwell lights installed" needs to be checked off and then you click "Do it!" Once you do that, remove all extra parts and VAG from the car. Shut all the doors and open them....you have working footwell lights! They come on when you take the key out of the ignition and they also come on when you open a door....just like factory.

Good luck!
 
#30 ·
cig lighter is 15 powered... meaning it's on when the key is on.

Takes 2 days for parts in local warehouses to arrive. 3 days from warehouses across the country. Order monday and you should have them wednesday. Pay for shipping and you can have them overnight it for tuesday. LED's would work perfectly...HOWEVER, voltage is computer controlled and you need to get a voltmeter on the wire AFTER you put the lights in so you can see how much power you are working with. If you have 7 volts available, you can determine which type and how many LED's to use.
 
#33 ·
I got them all from the dealer parts department. I'm sure you can get them online, but i'm not sure where.
 
#34 ·
Installed footwell lighting today - thanks Nitroscope

Thanks for the great and detailed write up. I put the footwell lighting in today, took me about 2 hours - including a run to Home Depot for the circle grommet connectors for the grounds and the wire connectors. The rest of the parts I ordered from Miramar Audi/VW at www.genuinevwaudiparts.com. I'm very happy with the end result - thanks again for the how-to!
 
#36 · (Edited)
I have all needed info posted already with part numbers and pictures. Maybe you skimmed to fast and missed it!

the cecm only needs one wire.... 1 wire P/N 000 979 025 A (again, A not needed)
 
#37 ·
Hey thanks for your replay! I've already marked that item number.
I was confused b/c you've mentioned,

>I just found that the pin on the CECM needs a special wire and I had to order it. It should be here on thursday or friday. I'll keep ya posted.

after you've listed all parts required. So I thought it was not on the list yet......:p

Anyway great write up thanks a loot!
 
#38 ·
If I find the overhead light fuse, can I use an add-a-fuse circuit in and not worry about throwing a bulb blown light? I know she's a picky beast. Might consider adding some red LED lights - though I don't know how useful they'd be. I hate being completely unable to see the floor at night though.
 
#39 ·
The bulb out on the cluster only warns the driver of EXTERIOR lights that are out, not interior. You can grab power from anywhere you like...but doing it the way I did is the FACTORY way of doing it.
 
#40 ·
So....anyone do this yet? Or are you guys party poopers?
 
#42 ·
fly me out, pay for room and board, let me drive your car, and THEN ill install them for you. Otherwise, no. I require much pampering and primping.
 
#45 ·
You have vaged it to work, yes?
 
#47 ·
has anyone measured the output voltage on pin 7. I've got a bunch of leds and would be nice to know what voltage I'm dealing with incase fiddling around ends up for nothing. also, I'm planning on putting some leds above the cubby in front of the shift knob so it alluminates the center console. there is the flexible bit of trim there that I can bend down a bit with my fingers, wondering if that can be pulled out with more force. if so, that saves feeding wire there in a visible area. also, thanks for the writeup, very well done.
 
#48 ·
it's 80% of battery voltage. If you have MFI, you can set how bright they are.
 
#50 ·
well i did this and had a guy change the vag setting yesterday and when i got it all hooked up it diddnt work...so i just ran a constant power to each side and tapped the ground off the dome lights that functions the same as the footwells but now i can actually turn them on and off with my domes which is cool...i used some nice red led pods that i had lying around and they look great even kind of stockish...ill get some pics if anyone is interested
 
#51 ·
Meh...if they didn't work you did something wrong.
 
#54 ·
Ill get the diagram. On my mac now, need a PC.
 
#56 ·
Yeah got my netbook home so ill let you know asap....