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New to the forum here, I currently own a 2020 GTI but have been looking for a project. I stumbled upon a Rabbit Custom and was wondering what a fair price to offer was. So details about the Car
He listed as 1970 Rabbit, but after research, I have narrowed it down to 76.5 to 78. Has some surface rust but not terrible. Definitely needs to be painted. Says the car was running and driving when parked but who know how long its been since then. He's asking $1500, what would be a fair price to offer?
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I would guess looking at it in the 500-900 dollar range as the Rubbers around the windshield and rear hatch may be worse than it appears, only a cleaning will tell. The rear rubbers are hard to come by, the windshield chrome and rear hatch chrome was only avail on the LS model year, but the dash appear correct for a C as there were 4 models that I know of, Base, C , L and in 80 or 81 they introduced the LS. All were differences in Trim levels, the window rubbers and door scrapers are about more than you would pay for the full asking price. Not driven means a lot of things could be wrong as in rotted gas tank, fuel lines, as well as the Fuel Dizzy and other things being totally wacked Rusted Cylinders, bad or fronzem cam and lifters and finding those in a Junk yard is harder and harder every passing day. Body pars missing and bent, as in the wheel arches I didn't think were standard on the "C" mismatched rims, cap off the diz, means that foreign object damage, and corrosion might have occured and that too may be frozen so I would say take a 19mm 1/2 in drive breaker bar extension and a 12pt and 6pt deep or short well socket and see if you can turn the engine over by hand, and if it don't spin easily...you may be looking at a total rebuild or sourcing a new engine. This engine is a non-interference so don't be afraid to turn it but do it easily, as the timing belt could be toast and pop, but the hopeful thing is that you can see the Diz rotate, and that the cam will rotate, any hard binds is a no-no. Look at the Strut towers for rusting and cracking, as that is a biggie as well.

The clutch cable being fully adjusted up also means that a clutch is in your future as well as all the engine mounts both the tranny and the engine...

About 14 years ago here is what 1400 bought me,












It needed a new door, some engine work as a blown head gasket non-working a/c, electrical issues, and a new top and interior....
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I would guess looking at it in the 500-900 dollar range as the Rubbers around the windshield and rear hatch may be worse than it appears, only a cleaning will tell. The rear rubbers are hard to come by, the windshield chrome and rear hatch chrome was only avail on the LS model year, but the dash appear correct for a C as there were 4 models that I know of, Base, C , L and in 80 or 81 they introduced the LS. All were differences in Trim levels, the window rubbers and door scrapers are about more than you would pay for the full asking price. Not driven means a lot of things could be wrong as in rotted gas tank, fuel lines, as well as the Fuel Dizzy and other things being totally wacked Rusted Cylinders, bad or fronzem cam and lifters and finding those in a Junk yard is harder and harder every passing day. Body pars missing and bent, as in the wheel arches I didn't think were standard on the "C" mismatched rims, cap off the diz, means that foreign object damage, and corrosion might have occured and that too may be frozen so I would say take a 19mm 1/2 in drive breaker bar extension and a 12pt and 6pt deep or short well socket and see if you can turn the engine over by hand, and if it don't spin easily...you may be looking at a total rebuild or sourcing a new engine. This engine is a non-interference so don't be afraid to turn it but do it easily, as the timing belt could be toast and pop, but the hopeful thing is that you can see the Diz rotate, and that the cam will rotate, any hard binds is a no-no. Look at the Strut towers for rusting and cracking, as that is a biggie as well.

The clutch cable being fully adjusted up also means that a clutch is in your future as well as all the engine mounts both the tranny and the engine...

About 14 years ago here is what 1400 bought me,
Thanks for the response! Okay, so I feel I would need to knock him down quite a bit to even consider buying it. I might try and turn the motor like you suggested and use a camera snake and take a look at the inside. I think i will go check it out today before dragging a friend and a trailer out there.
 

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Well the deal fell through. I respectfully declined unless he would take less, especially after finding out it wasnt in the city he had the listing in but 3 hours away. Seller started becoming disrespectful so i ended it right there. Hopefully I can find another at a decent price. I will just have to keep shopping.
 

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What do people expect to gain from acting that way?
He would like to sell the car, you wanted to buy it. So why get all sneaky about where it REALLY is located? Why start getting all disrespectful when you offer less for good reasons?

I just don't know what makes them do that.
 

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I don't understand it either. I was being respectful about my offer, and not doing the typical FB marketplace "I got 500" type offer. He did say that he had someone coming to pick it up for 2K right before I blocked him but since the listing is still up, highly doubtful that was even close to true.
 
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