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On the way home from a family gathering, I noticed that when the brakes are applied the front end has a light vibration. The vibration only happens when brakes are pressed. There is no vibration under normal driving.
Not sure if this is wheel balance or front alignment. I had two tires replaced earlier this year. Tires were all balanced then.

Possible fix to this?
 

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Rotors; Warped, Rusted, or otherwise, as long as the car STOPS, they
can pass it for inspection. Loose suspension parts, no pass... So, you
either look and pry-bar under there to check for loose parts, bad bushings
and ball joints, or replace the rotors and pads if you don't find anything.

Up here, they'll pass it if the boot over the ball joint is GONE or even
deteriorated, as long as there is no play in the joint. Found that out on
a truck I bought, that was newly inspected, and the passenger side tie-rod
end had no boot at all, and the driver side was half gone. There was no
play in the joints, so it passed. I replaced them anyway, immediately. Also,
one inner tie-rod had play, guess they MISSED that... Replaced that too..

Rotors can also develop hard/hot spots, in addition to warping. These
will also cause shaking when you apply the brakes. The tie-rod ends,
and inner tie rods, will do the same thing if they're loose, or the ball joint
in the tie-rod end moves. Any imperfections in the rotors will be amplified
by bad suspension parts.

I am willing to bet, you replace the pads and rotors, it goes away, or, even
is less prominent if you do have bad suspension parts. I replace my rotors
at least once every 2-years. When I had my 2000 Avenger ES, I had to
replace them every year. The car was too heavy for the small 9.1" rotors,
yet the Eclipse, a smaller, lighter car, (cousin platform) got the 10.1" rotors.
Even the Gallant got the larger brakes, yet DODGE puts an under powered
brake system on, thus they HAD to be replaced every year. So, I bought
cheap $13.00 Chinese rotors, since they needed replaced every year. YES,
I tried a set of $50.00 each rotors, and back then, that's a $105.00 rotor
today! Same crap, they warped within a year. So, I kept with the $13.00
cheap Chinese (UBP) ones. I just did the front pads on my son's 2013 Jetts "S",
at 50,000 miles, yet my 2013 TDI went 211,300 miles before I had to change them, yes
PADS AND ROTORS. Pads were actually fine, but the rotors were not... Are on
my 3rd set of REAR pads though, new rotors are in the shed on stand-by.

My 2007 charger? Went through front rotors too... Sold that car though...

My '06 HHR? After almost 20,000 miles, it needs rotors already, and the
previous owner just had them done.

So, here you are, three years after your purchase, same pads and
rotors. Sure, pads may be fine, rotors, may not. Pads on my 2013
TDI were fine, rotors were not, but, I changed the pads anyway.
They were only 50% down, and at 211,300 miles, that's a record
for me, but I am going through a set of rear pads every year.
 

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On the way to learn more about the best creatine supplements here from a family gathering, I noticed that when the brakes are applied the front end has a light vibration. The vibration only happens when brakes are pressed. There is no vibration under normal driving.
Not sure if this is wheel balance or front alignment. I had two tires replaced earlier this year. Tires were all balanced then.

Possible fix to this?
Definitely take it for a service to be safe.
 

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While I can attest to "Chinese" Steel vs American or Canadian steel rotors and warpage... I have also had cars that when the pads were getting down to a point they would either squeal because of Wear indicator springs, or vibrate the wheel as brakes were applied. So this could be just a pad warning, but you need to have it checked out, whether you do it, or your shop does it.

Every one drives differently. I have an EX-brother in law that rode with his foot on the brake pedal, and he would go through pads and rotors every 6 months.
I have seen those speed up and brake folks, and folks that only apply brakes on impact. So how you drive is what determines the wear as well as properly functioning
components.

Rotors, hanging calipers, bad brake lines can effect your handling, and braking.
Vibrations under Brakes while usually indicative of a Brake issue can also be caused by alignment, tire wear, caliper bolts that are loose or missing, tie-rods ball joints, struts.

Knowing your car on a mechanical level is so important. Maintaining your car to Peak efficiency is another.
What I get out of a set of pads is going to be different than you, and on a manual car I get better than average.
I drove a Chevy 1/2 ton truck daily as it was a work truck, at 90K I had to have the pads and shoes changed and rotors turned.

I got 100K on a Toyota I owned before I had to replace the pads.
I had a Chrysler that totally drove me up a tree, until I found out that the ABS modulator was defective and hanging a caliper.
 

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221130 miles before new pads and rotors on my 2013 Jetta TDI. The pads were "okay",
the left rotor started causing shakes. On my 3rd set of rear pads though, which is
odd.
 
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