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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Changing a water pump? Don't work at it from the bottom up....
Try this.

O dear, my water pump is nicht sie pumpin.
it is gerfunked beyond gerfunkin.
It is leaking faster than a Democrat creating new ways to tax me.

So I have joined the ranks after having changed out the pump only, Major pain in the ass as you have to remove timing covers and other crapola
It is Far easier and less the PITA to take it out as a whole assembly than to "follow" the just replace it as it is.


In my most humbled opinion.... you will have a easier day if you do the following.

NO YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT, BUT YOU DO HAVE TO REMOVE ONE 10MM TIMING COVER NUT, and the upper timing belt cover.

If you can visit a wrecking yard, get the bracket and barrel bolt adjuster off a 88 GOLF/Jetta as it makes adjusting the belts so much easier than the gear. You will need the Bracket, Barrel Bolt, and right side pivot bolt and nut, all are 13mm.

Why, VW changed this is beyond me, but the older style is far superior for adjustment.






Disconnect the battery

Remove the 2 power steering res bracket bolts to allow you to move the thing out of your way while you are working.


Jack the car and or support it on ramps and or Jack Stands.

Remove the 5 bolts that hold the power steering bracket to the block, the major pivot, and the 2 that hold the p/s pump to the
bracket.

Remove the 5 13mm bolts and the one 13mm nut that hold the power steering bracket to the block, the major pivot, and the 2 that hold the p/s pump to the bracket.









Remove the thermostat housing, and be prepared for the Deluge Use only a 6pt 10mm socket.



Have a pan available to catch the fluid.





Now once it has mostly douched you, you will see the thermostat, pry that out with a flat blade screw driver
and get a second deluge.



Remove the Alternator (see how to:http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/32210-Cabriolet-Alternator-Removal-Non-York-A-C )

Remove the upper radiator hose and the res hose. Bend them back and unwind them from your a/c hoses.

Remove the 2 13mm bolts and nuts that hold the a/c compressor and are the adjusters.

Remove the 2 8mm Allen bolts that hold the a/c compressor on the back.

Remove the a/c electrical connector.

Now Pry the a/c compressor out of the bracket.

Take the Belt off

Carefully move the a/c compressor out towards and rest it on the fan shroud.




Remove the upper a/c bracket pivot bolt



Remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the a/c bracket to the block (These are 2 of the pump housing bolts too.)



Remove the bracket by pivoting it up, then using a pry bar pry it out.

Remove the 2 hoses that are on the back side of the water pump.

Remove the 10mm nut that holds the timing cover to the water pump.



Remove the 2 remaining 13mm bolts that hold the water pump body to the block.

Wowsers it is out it is far by far the better method.

If you ordered a whole assembly, then clean off the mount area add a new o-ring and away
you go to replacing it.

before



after




Be Warned that you have to place the Alternator belt on before the a/c belt.

You need to only torque the w/p and thermostat cover bolts to about 87in/lbs so don't go honking.


Even if you didn't order the housing assembly, you can now get the pulley off and the 10mm bolts.

You can spray the back side of the bolts with pb-blaster....

I didn't need a housing as I had a spare one, and even after removing my old housing my cordless
impact didn't strip or break any of the 10mm bolts that hold the water pump to the housing.


Be sure to clean the housing and lightly sand it.



Place the gasket on the housing, then the pump.

Clean all the bolt threads



Hand thread all the bolts and coat the bolts with never-sieze




For added measure, coat the back of the bolts with a anti corrosive paint:



To move the Pulley over, I find that if I lock a Flat Blade Screwdriver between the bolt and pulley hub, I can use the floor
for leverage to loosen or tighten them at will.



When putting the the pump back on use all 4 bolts, as you want to align it so that all 4 bolts start easily...


Don't forget to drill a 1/8 inch hole in the lip of the t-stat to prevent air bubble blockage.



For those that wonder, I found a "metal Impeller" water pump locally at NAPA, sure I had to pay
20 dollars more for it but I am way happier to have the metal impeller......


Trust me when I tell you it is far easier to remove it this way than any other that you can think of.


Cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here is a picture of the OEM water pump, they can come in plastic or metal impellers.




Here is the Saleri pump that I bought the other day:




Since adding it to my car, I have seen a 40 percent decrees in running temp, I have also noticed that
the fan dosen't come on too much, and there is negligible temp climb on stop. Now I haven't had it out on a 100 degree day, but
what my old but noisy pump was doing the other day.... it is remarkable.

I only want metal impellers, but this Salari beat the other metal one I put in about 2 months ago.
This one is like Tiger Teeth compared to dentures. But then again metal beats plastic every day.
 

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Briano1234 This is a little off subject....and I know I have see a thread but cannot find it...... I am going to replace water pump then also going to eliminate Bosch A/C compressor.. how once I get bracket off do I remount alternator so that its inline with water pump pulley and crank? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You are going to take the AC mount off, and then at the top of the head where the Bracket sits is where you are going to mount your Alternator.
Now here are two rules:
You will need to place washers at the back of the alternator. Normally when you tighten the through bolt, you will find that it pushes a bushing to the rear of the engine causing the Alternator to Center in the bracket and tighten. By placing the washers behind the alternator bracket you stop that movement of the alternator to the rear so it stays front and center.

Second you may have to take your alternator pulley off and place a couple of washers between the pulley and the body to get it to align.

Now so you can see what I mean.

Where you should mount your Alternator


Bushing that I mention is on both brackets this shows the alternator


Where you are smacking it to remove.


The breakdown of a cabby mount very similar to a 81 diesel


83 rabbit GTI
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?504849

Cabriolet delete
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2879839

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2559384 (iffy)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Depends, if it is a York, probably if you can't find the sanden bracket holder.

The Sanden Bracket is about 15lbs of reduction. Depend on the alignment of the pulley.
There is toywagen replacement pricey.
http://www.toywagen.com/pulley.htm
 

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so. i changed my water pump and timing belt. removed my ac compressor and bracket. now i am trying to figure out how to mount the ps pump.... i hear it can be done, without other parts, but i can't find a picture of the setup
 

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Thanks for the walk through! I'll be using this tonight. Would you recommend replacing some of my belts when doing this? And do I need a torque wrench to complete the task?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the walk through! I'll be using this tonight. Would you recommend replacing some of my belts when doing this? And do I need a torque wrench to complete the task?

Thanks!
If your belts are new no, if they are old why not, they have to come off anyways, and remember alternator to compressor first, then the comp wp crank.

If you have a fully adjustable Torque Elbow then no, other wise it is very easy to strip a steel bolt (ok, the steel won't strip) in an aluminum part. Never-Seize is the Key and so is the sealing of the back side of the bolts....... it is 87 in/lbs and those are less than 20 bucks most places @ harborfreight they are cheaper and with the Coupon even less. 1/4 drive 6pt socket only.

If you bought pump and housing great, if not you better have an impact and plenty of PB-Blaster....... Spray it on tonight and then again tomorrow, the front as well as the back.
 
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I was not able to finish last night. I had some trouble with the major pivot bolts, they took a significant amount of PB Blaster to get off, and so did the bolts for the WP pulley. I got the WP mounted when I realized I didn't have any hose clamps, the factory clamps are frustrating to get back on, so I called it quits at 2am. I'll get back on the horse tonight and power through. Shouldn't be too difficult to get everything back together, but who knows what problems I'll run into. Pray none!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was not able to finish last night. I had some trouble with the major pivot bolts, they took a significant amount of PB Blaster to get off, and so did the bolts for the WP pulley. I got the WP mounted when I realized I didn't have any hose clamps, the factory clamps are frustrating to get back on, so I called it quits at 2am. I'll get back on the horse tonight and power through. Shouldn't be too difficult to get everything back together, but who knows what problems I'll run into. Pray none!
Actually they make Spring Clamp pliers, that work well I have 2 different kinds, and the dang clamps are actually better as they hold tighter and compress or expand with the engine to keep a tight worry free seal.

I have had the lisle ones, and have stripped them so they don't lock too well, but the ones I got from may father which are about 60 years old work on the flat and round spring clamps... They look like a pair of Gas Station Pliers, with a band to lock the handles together.

Those WP pulley allens can be a dickens, and I usually use a long handled allen to hold the pulley as I use another allen and the socket and extension to break them loose, once the belt is a tad loose you can rotate it.
 

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Big thanks to briano1234! I was able to get everything back together in no time. The only down side to the new WP is that the car runs a little hotter. My new pump is a metal version similar to the OEM model. The old pump had the same super impeller that you recommend. But now I’m not leaking coolant out of the bad bearings and it runs much quieter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great news on no leakage, and I too noticed that I had increased temps lately when I changed mine out for preventative maint, as my Green ones WP front seal gave up the ghost, It took me for ever to locate the leak. It wasn't till I placed more UV dye in the coolant, that I saw it on the back side of the pulley.

I really liked the aggressiveness of the impeller, but longevity wise it was lacking.
 

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I'm wondering if the fan style impeller just puts too much pressure on the bearings and seals causing them to wear out faster? Just a thought.

So my running temp seems to be closer to the middle range of the gauge, over the light, made me a little worried at first, but apparently this is where it should be with the OEM style impeller.

My next project will be to replace my fuel pumps. I've go the whine and it typically starts after about 15 min of driving, so time to change it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No it is usually overtly tightened belts to stop squealing, and they way things are made now it is a IFFY quality issue.
The Temp setting depends on the temp of the t-stat. the Normal 195 will be about 1/2 the way between the half and 3/4 full hot.
The 180 t-stat will sit at 1/2/

Open a new thread for the fuel pumps, as that is where it should be in the General Older rabbit section.

I would suspect that depending on the year, whether you have 1 or 2 fuel pumps, and the issue may be one or the other pump failure.
So open a new thread and post the year of your ride, as the pre-1984 rabbits had one pump, where as the 1984.5 Cabriolets had 2.
The way to tell is if you have a 10 gallon fuel tank, and a full sized spare, or a 13 Gallon tank and a space saver spare tire.
 
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