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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I picked these up today, rears, they were free LLW's are great aren't they.

Open the top of the car, the trunk, pop the seat latch and fold the rear seat back.

Loosen the Lug bolts:

Remove the Zeppo tops off the shocks.

I jack the car about 18 inches, and support it on the pinch welds infront of the tire.
Do not use the axle or strut :)

Take the tire off.

Loosen the 17mm bolt and nut that hold the shock in the mount, If they don't loosen, you will need to use pb-blaster and some muscle possibly heat.

Once the nut is loose, then take it to the bitter end of the bolt but leave it attached.
Now smack it with a hammer, if it dosen't slide out, you are going to have to use a hacksaw, or sawzall
or a torch to get the bolt out of the shock.

You can try to cut the head and nutted side of the bolt flush with the mount and use a cresent wrench
to bend the mount free of the bolt.

With the bolt out, you need to jack the shock up to unload the tension on the top mount.

I use a 17mm wrench to loosen the top mount and a 17mm socket to free it.

Remove the cup, then the rubber mount. Then you will see the Shock piston retaining nut.

Back under the car.

Remove the jack and allow the shock to "bottom" out, as the top will be out of the hole and you can get to the nut easier.

Place a 17mm ratcheting wrench on the nut in the "lefty loosey" mode and a pair of vice grips on the flat of the very top.

Loosen the nut, when it gets ready to pop off it will but the spring isn't under as much compression and

Take off the rubber mount, spring perch, and the spacer.

Work the spring off the shaft.

Spray the top of the boot stop with wd-40, and let it see for a minute, then twist the boot stop on the shaft.

Using a large pry bar, pry it off the shaft.

On original struts they used a little clip to hold it, the replacements have this evil stop that the boot can ride over.

Force the strut back up the mount and in to the free hole and you can now work it out and toss it.

When going back I place the shock in the mount and let it drop, I then place the lower spring perch on, the strut cap, boot stop, then I put the spring back on, seat the perch add the top perch, then rubber mount, now I force this back up the strut hole, and hold it in place with a jack

From the top of the car I start the nut and tighten it about 20 turns, then drop the assembly back down, to tighten the top nut fully using the same technique of speed wrench and vice grips till I can't tune it any more at all.

After I verify that the perches and springs are correct I re-position it in the hole and jack it up so that I can place the bottom bolt in the mount and tighten it.

Remember that I said to "mummify" the bolt so that it would never be an issue again. Well here is the bolt after 5 years on the car.

Looks brand new,,,, :)

P/N of that bolt is N0104707 it is M10X70.

Wrap the bolt from the heads to the threads with teflon tape, and cover it with never-seize.
Picture of the bolt wrapped with Teflon tape prior to the never-seize being applied.

Place the bolt in the mount, and tighten the nut.

Jack the whole frame assembly up to take the strain off the top.

From the top, replace the rubber mount, then the cup (cup up), and now the nut. Tighten the nut fully
Till you can't get it any tighter.

Replace the Rubber cap
Replace the tire.
Tighten the lugs
Jack the car.
Remove the jack stand.
Lower and repeat for the other side.
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