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Discussion Starter #1
I did a search and but am not 100% sure I have the information correct.

My current alternator has 2 red wires connecting to a single ring terminal on the back. The new alternator I picked up has 4 male terminals, 2 large, 1 small and a second smaller one to the side. It's my understanding I need to connect the 2 red wires to the 2 largest male terminals.

What's confusing me is I've heard there can be 3 wires with 1 going to the cluster and that I need some form for voltage resistor on the smaller pin off to the side.

Can anyone confirm?
 

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Are the spad terminals in a recess
Like this: look at the connector on the left of the yellow circle. The yellow circle was to show the Voltage Regulator.


Your old one was this?


The first photo was for a 81 westy Rabbits that had a Motorola alternator that used a plug.....
The Second was the Bosch style that was on Euro Golf, or Cabriolet that used ring terminals.

The terminals on the Motorola are from up to down. +12 ,+12, and the exciter from dash (blue wire, black on Motorola IIRC.)

I would take it back and get the proper alternator as the Motorola's were 60amp. Whereas the Bosch could be 60,90,120.
 

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If the Alternator has male spade terminals instead of studded posts, then it is a "Motorola" type of Alternator which takes a connector plug. The Studded posts were on the European, and early rabbits prior to them being made in Westmoreland, Pa. (westy) had studded posts out the back where you could attach the cables to with "Ring" connectors. The electrical system on a "Westy built" was re-engineered which is why "Merican" Rabbits differ from Euro Golfs or Cabriolets. (Cabriolets were all made in Germany at the Karmann Coach Werks. ) and have a black fuse box, whereas "Merican Westy's" had a Gray colored fuse panel with different layouts.

If you also look at the yellow circle on the first pic, that was the typical Motorola style of Voltage regulator.
Whereas the second pic shows the typical flat canned (black) voltage regulator/Brush assembly on the Bosch style of alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay thanks Brian, so you recommend I return it rather than change the harness on the car? Hopefully they can find me another!


Edit* The parts store was able to track down an alternator with the two posts on the back and are bringing it in for me. I will swap the new units and call it a day.
 

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Okay thanks Brian, so you recommend I return it rather than change the harness on the car? Hopefully they can find me another!


Edit* The parts store was able to track down an alternator with the two posts on the back and are bringing it in for me. I will swap the new units and call it a day.
Dang didn't see this till today, glad they got it sorted out for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have another question about the alternator belt.

Since we bought this car the alt belt has been very close to the timing belt cover and you can see on the cover it has made contact. You'd be lucky to put a piece of paper between the two. The cover looks a bit warped and I tried to flatten it out but it's still very very close. Is there and adjustment I can do to move it further away or should I buy a new cover and hope it clears more.
 

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You can try to shim the crank pulley out a wee bit by using washers between the Pulley and the Crank (small washers on the bolts.) but there is minimal clearance....
At the rear of the alternator where the bolt goes from the front to the back at the pivot. You can also place a washer there between the mount of the alternator and the bracket...

This will prevent the Alternator from moving all the way to the mount and keep it out to the front better.
If you look at the mount, there is a bushing in the front that as you tighten the allen and washer it pushes the bushing into the alternator and moves it to the rear.
So by adding a washer or two at the rear of the pivot between the alternator and the mount bracket, you stop the alternator from pushing itself to the back of the mount.
(Probably the easiest) but you will have to push the bushing out to the fender more to fit the alternator. Easy to do with a carriage bolt and a couple of nuts as a press.

29 is the bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Brian, sorry for the late reply.

I took a look at what you were describing with the alt. bushing. My old alternator had some movement within the lower bracket but my new one does not. In fact I had to shave 1/16" off the alternator housing mount just to fit inside the bracket on the block, it was a very tight fit but it helped move the pulley further away from the TB cover compared to the old alternator. This made a huge difference and the belt doesn't rub nearly as often but I still hear it now and again. If the timing belt cover was perfectly flat instead of bent it wouldn't touch at all. I will remove the cover after work today and attempt to hammer it flat or cut it out.
 

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Didn't think to ask, but is there a large washer between the Fan and the alternator front bearing?

If there isn't then that may be your issue and wouldn't be that hard to put in there. A electric, or Air impact is a real helper as no torque is needed to hold the shaft a gloved hand on the fan and the nut spins right off usually.
This is mine on my Cabriolet.


As a matter of fact, when I bought it new, it came with a non a/c pulley, so I swapped it over....(should have kept that pulley dang nab it.).
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Maybe that's the issue! I have a non AC car but the alternator I removed is the same style as the AC alternator that the auto part store listed. If the pulley or routing is different that would definitely cause it.

Although, I played around with the cover a little last night after swapping in a new radiator. I was able to move the cover over a slight bit more it may not rub now. I'll drive it later today and see.
 

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The non a/c pulley is longer sticks out more. A company called toywagen sells a non a/c pulley, and I have see somewheres else sell one but due to irmageddon limited to my phone. Can't do too much.
 
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