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Hello all; any and all advice and information is greatly appreciated.

I recently inherited my grandfather's '69 bug. Don't know much about air cooled VW's, and am a somewhat amateur mechanic (can change oil, perform a general tune up, etc. but not a lot of knowledge about mechanics). So my grandpa's bug was rebuilt about ten years ago including the engine and transmission. He drove it around all the time until about five years ago he had some health issues and it was parked in the garage until now. I've inherited it and I would like to get it going again in his honor. I have the "How To Keep Your Volkswagon Alive" book by John Muir that I've been told is invaluable. I will dive into that here soon. But I want to get some advice on what I should be aiming at doing to get her purring again. I'm guessing replacing a lot of gaskets and rebuilding the carburettor. I replaced the battery, siphoned out the old fuel and replaced, and sprayed some starter fluid in the carb, and I'm sure I will be yelled at for doing this, but I tried to start it. Again, it was in tip-top shape when it was parked 5 years ago. It acted like it wanted to start, turns over, but won't actually start. I fiddled around and figured out the carb is not getting any gas. The fuel pump is working. I figure the in-line fuel filter between the pump and the carb needs to be replaced, and possibly the carb is just gummed up.
Anyway, besides rebuilding the carburettor, and changing the oil, what should I do? Here are some specific questions:
-Which gaskets should I replace?
-How do I determine the size of the engine (1600cc, etc.)?
-Type I, Type II, Type III? I don't know what these mean. I'm guessing different generations of motors.
-Adjust the valves?
It is an "auto-stick". I remember driving it a few times in my late teens, and there is no clutch but you still shift manually via a pressure-sensitive stick? Is this all mechanical I'm assuming? Should I check anything about this?
I don't know. My general plan of attack is to collect some advice, do a thorough tune-up. Toying with the idea of just doing a complete rebuild. Get some good books (I've been told "How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine" by Tom Wilson is great), take it slow, learn as I go. Anyway, all information is very appreciated. I want to get this old girl going for my Grandpa again. Thank you-
 

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Don't know a lot on the early beetles, but I have to ask is it a Super Beetle, or just a "plane Jane" as there was a difference in them.
The plane janes still used a Carburetor, where as the Super Beetles usually were fuel injected with a EFI or Digifant 1 system.

What a Injected Super Beetle one owner looks like.




I occasionally will work on it, about 2 years ago I replaced the Top and all the seals and scrapers..... I did the Alternator once, and that was a "drop" the engine thing.....

Vacuum leaks are the Bane of VW's. so you may what to trim the ends of all the vacuum hoses to re-fresh the connection, take care of removing the hoses prior to clipping.

Carb'ed units after sitting usually lacquer up the Jets and Floats, and it could be as simple as removing the Carb, taking off the float bowel, and spraying carb cleaner in it to get the carb freed up.

The Digi injectors there are 4 of them usually mounted on the sides, have connectors. and a rail on the top. They take o-rings after you remove them, and they are about 2 bucks for a kit of 8 rings. Those can get Lacquered up as well and drip or not spray, there is also a Fuel Pressure Regulator that can get gummy, and force all the gas to return to the tank instead of the fuel rails. This can be cleaned with carb cleaner when removed.....

I wouldn't thing that a total rebuild is needed, just some cleaning of parts. Also on the early dubs, if you leave the ignition key in the switch, you apply power to the Dizzy, and if the point are making contact, you can burn up the condensor in the Diz. Electronic ignition has a hall unit and isn't susceptible to burn out.

My Older Brother was driving across the Desert in Calif. He stopped at a rest stop, and while he was gone doing his business, his wife had the key on listening to the radio..... Needless to say, he had to have it towed.... When I found out 3 days later, I said replace the condensor, and don't ever leave the key in the ACC to play the radio. The Radio will play with the key in or out. 30 minutes later, he called and said, it's alive.... Then he chewed me out for not telling him.... Well I didn't know he was buying it....so it was all on him.

John Muirs books is great. I had a friend in the Service that had a 64 beetle that he had the engine in his Locker in Pieces, you should of seen the officers face when he had locker inspection. :)
 

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There is a world of difference between your 69 type 1 and the EFI bug pictured above. 1975 is when VW T1's were first introduced with fuel injection. Type 2 is a VW van or bus, type 3 is the notchback, squareback, or fastback, and does not have reference to engine size or year. First off, you want to check all vacuum ancillaries related to the auto stick. Under the left side, driver's side, rear, you'll find the servo that does the shifting, it works off of the engines vacuum with a rubber diaphram that sometimes just disintegrates sometimes causing a no start or no shift problem. Next on the left side of the engine compartment is the control valve for the servo. The hoses connected to it have to be connected to the proper outlet and inlet, otherwise no start or no shifting. I do not recommend messing with the shifter contacts until you have it running. If the carburetor is dirty, by all means overhaul it, set your Dwell at 46 degs. with a meter or 0.016" with a feeler gauge. Timing at 10 degs. at idle between 900 - 1,000 or 31 degs. BTDC @ 3500 rpm. One other detail is engine size, If you have single port heads you most likely have a 1500cc engine, if it's dual ports it could have been pushed up to 1600 cc at the time it was rebuilt.
 
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