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Discussion Starter #1
I'm the likely owner of this Rabbit. It's been a while since I messed with an old car and so far I'm just trying to get it running.
( I used to drive Chevettes so I sort of know what I'm in for)



It sat for a year or more so the battery was useless.
New battery and solenoid help it turn over but it's not catching so I'm messing with fuel things next. Hope that's not awful. ( Haven't had a diesel before)



However there's this other thing...



The previous owner said has some odd wiring and was working it out.
I'm pretty sure that's going to be a chore.

But it's a cute car.



:c&b:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome,

Wiring mess, you need to know the following links
Question:
Would it be feasible to use the wring from and 87 gas car with the glow plug circuit spliced in just to get me back to square? Or is that weird?
I'd like to do a ce2 wiring swap but that isn't practical right now and I'd like to get the car running in January.
 

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nope 87 different beast.
 

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Wiring is a pain in the butt on a good day, but it looks as if they started something and threw in the towel.

Considering that the Fuse box is usually under the drivers side Knee bar, at least it is out in the open for you to get it right.

it would be best to tell us where you are at.

To run a diesel you have to have a starter circuit.
A fuel shut off valve circuit, along with a glow plug circuit.

There are 2 types of glow plugs, the wait forever, and the seven second type.
They use different glow plugs, and different relays.
So knowing what type you have helps us.

4 Crawler has some good information here:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/GlowPlug.shtml

Make sure that you can rotate the engine easily (really tough because of compression with no mechanical binds by hand 4 times at least.
DO NOT USE ETHER.

Verifying that the timing is correct is another. The Diesel engines are Interference and the Piston can strike the valves.
As i see a stand alone gauge then Previous owners Mods have been done, and may have to be undone to determine where to start on the
wiring.

Chris's Pages and a DVOM are going to be in your future.
 
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It's pretty common for people to rewire the high-amp stuff because the old wiring is lacking. You can easily find internet write-ups on relaying headlights, the radiator cooling fan, and "pimping" glow plugs. Having good circuits (with relays) for high draws will keep the voltage from dropping from the rest of the electrical system.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'd like to get it going diesel but I'm also not against swapping to gas, as I am more experienced in carbs. So far I've only changed the solenoid and got a battery. Last time I had a chance to try and start it it turned over but never caught. It was a really cold day and I just had time to fiddle with it for a couple hours. I ran the hose from the pump into a bottle of fuel and tried to get some into the intake. It tried but never started. I don't however know if the glow plugs are functioning yet, have to find my multimeter for that I guess. Having swapped wiring before, I almost feel like that would be a better start.
 

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Take one of your glow plugs out. Short it to the battery hold with pliers, as that will get red hot in 7-20 seconds if it doesn't, it's bad.
also you may want to try a mix of ATF/Diesel for a first start, and verify by turning the engine over and Cracking the Injector nuts one at a time to see if you are pushing fuel to the injector, this is also how you bleed them.

If the gp's aren't working then you won't get it started.

Also check the GP fuse on the firewall for being intact and 12V with key in and run not start.
 
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you can jump the glow plug fuse with a wire to the battery and you'll find out real fast how much current those plugs are using.

Take a piece of 12gauge or thicker wire that's a few feet long and strip an inch off each end.
Attach one end to the right-side screw of the glow plug fuse on the firewall and tighten the screw.
Now you have a wire that goes straight to all the glow plugs. Do NOT attach the other end of the wire to anything. Just touch the open end of the wire to the + terminal on your battery and it should spark.

If you hold that wire end to the +terminal with your hand it will heat the glow plugs. Should be a lot of current flowing making a good spark when you do it. Don't hold it there longer than you need to.

The old vw diesel engine is as simple as it gets. Those bosch mechanical injection pumps run "forever" if the fuel is clean.

Here's one angle on some discount parts if your going to dig in http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1430470&m=wc&l=en
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm going through the wiring and it's clear they kinda gave up. There are a couple missing connectors. I feel like getting a better wiring harness might be a good start.
 

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you can start it from the front of car without the key if you want to, I'd wouldn't dive into wiring without running the engine first.

clip a wire to the fuel solenoid on the Injection pump, a small lug crimped on the wire and tightened on the 8mm nut would be better. Just unclip from the battery to shut it off.

crimp a female spade connector to a wire and put it on the starter solenoid where the wire from the key would normally go. Make a starter button or just touch the bare end to the battery +

Glow plugs - you already know

Make sure it's in neutral lol
 

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you can start it from the front of car without the key if you want to, I'd wouldn't dive into wiring without running the engine first.

clip a wire to the fuel solenoid on the Injection pump, a small lug crimped on the wire and tightened on the 8mm nut would be better. Just unclip from the battery to shut it off.

crimp a female spade connector to a wire and put it on the starter solenoid where the wire from the key would normally go. Make a starter button or just touch the bare end to the battery +

Glow plugs - you already know

Make sure it's in neutral lol
Parking Brake fully engaged. :)

Verifying that your glow plugs work, is required... They have to be functional at least one of them.
The thing about glow plugs that I noticed over the years of ownership is that they go bad one at a time.
When they get down to two good ones it starts, but lumbers till warm, with one good one you can start the car and it runs really lumpy till it gets warm...
With none in cold, warm, or hot weather it won't start at all, be it that you have 7 second plugs or wait forever kind. The 7 seconds ones burn out in about a year and a half. Number 3 and number 4 are easy to get to... to test, and shoot to put a new one in. After I converted to 7 second ones from the wait forever, I carried one or 2 spare GP's and the 2 wrenches or sockets that it took to remove them in a plastic case I placed in my glove box, or in the spare wheel well.
I also carried spare fuses for the GP fuse in my owners manual... (I had one of them Crack, so I soldered it back together at a site I was working at to get me home...) (A Large Paper Clip works well whent he fuse goes).

As stated, if you place 12V on the bus bar for the GP's, and 12V on the fuel stop solenoid (rear of the IP) and you hear it pick, then if you give it a good 10 to 15 seconds for the GP's to warm, you should be able to start your car if you have fuel in the clear line from the Filter to the Pump.

As stated Car in Neutral, Parking Brake on....

Caveats. Good Ground are essential on these little buggers... To get a good ground, take a pair of Jumper Cables and attach both of them one end to the Battery and the other to FRAME, and one to the engine.

Second thing when you spin the engine is to know that you are getting fuel to the injectors, that is why you need to "Crack" open the Fuel line at the Injectors to see them weep fuel... If they don't weep fuel at the injectors, then back up to the stand offs on the IP manifold, You crack the injector lines so it can loosen, then crack the standoff.... Spin and see if the fuel is leaving.

No Fuel to the injectors is either your pump is gummy and can't suck or Pump, or your stop valve is gummy or won't pick.... or the filter that is on the outlet line of the tank is gummed up.

Diesels are, easier than Gassers, they are simple, and easy to maintain.... the hardest part is the Drivers side motor mount, and the timing belt.....

Wiring issues as your dash looks to be, can be deceiving. VW left some spare connectors in the loons for additional things that the original buyer didn't order.
so don't be too worried about those.

All the Westy wiring diagrams are here:
http://chris.chemidl.in/vw-wiring-diagram-pdf-1982-1983-1984/

Just download them and you have all the wiring information that you might ever need.

The second thing you need is either a Bentley, or a Haynes manual...

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a manual on the way. I might try to jump the wires and start it when it quits raining around here. Things like this are why I'm getting another harness though. Those switches are for the starter, wipers, and the horn. I don't have anyway to run the lights or anything else. The cut wires from the back of the fuse block are also not great.



 

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I need to add., if you connect a wire straight from the battery to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injection pump and still have the regular wire from the ignition to the injection pump still hooked up to it.... It will feed 12 volts back into the dash cluster like the key is in the ON position. Gauges and everything will get power. So you probably want to loosen the 8mm nut and remove that wire if you jump it direct,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got the wiring, but it seem like a gas fuse box (womp)
but I jumped a few wires as you guys suggested and it started up. Even have it coming from the tank now.
video
[video]https://vimeo.com/255949038[/video]

So from here I guess I need to see if I can still use this harness. It's at least complete and the right generation.

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions so far!
 

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That is awesome, I'm going to try some of those wiring tricks on my truck, glad you got it running and it want an injection pump!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Attempted to just hook up all the old wiring and see what's what. So far I can start it with the jumped wires, but nothing else is working besides this battery light.



Found the old positive cable which has lead I guess I need to re-attach.



I'm starting to think the guy did all this because of a few bad switches. So far the harness and fusebox I got match up enough to likely use. Maybe this would be a good time to swap the dash?
 

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That original has the 2 fusible links (white) connectors, and the one that is on the end reminds me of the starter lead.... I also see the paint code LE5B on your Valance.

Your battery light is because you are missing the exciter wire. It is a Blue wire off the battery to the cluster, then from the cluster back to the blue or black wire on the alternator.
 
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