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The diz should have a hash mark stamped on the side of the case, that you can see if the plastic shield is removed. If you have a vacuum advanced diz it is about at the 90 degree mark CCW from the mech. A Electronic diz is about 90 degrees CCW from the plug.

Be warned that you are going to move the gear as you insert or remove the diz so you have to take tha tin to account.

Crank at tdc on the tranny finger.
Cam dimple even to the heads top place or the valve cover tin, if the valve cover is off you will also see that the number one lobes are up.
Diz rotor in the Center of the hash.

pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Something seemed not right so I slid the belt off and timed it all up. The cam gear and flywheel dimple weren't lining up and once I got them right, the belt went back on just right.
Put the old diz in just in case and it's firing up,possibly better. It may have been off a tooth that whole time. When I took it down the block last week it was hesitating a bunch. Probably gonna get some plugs and washable fuel filter and get back to it later in the week.
 

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LOL.... Been there, my Green Cabby, that I bought from FLA, just had the timing belt changed by a "CERTIFIED VW" mech.

Well 3 weeks later, my car started acting the fool.....It would idle nicely, but give it gas, and it would hesitate, cough sputter, left off the gas and it would idle fine..... After a variety of things that I threw at it.... I finally found the issue was that the Mech that placed the new belt on, Torqued the lower Crank Bolt to 110lbs, that is normal for a 6pt bolt, but not the 12pt. So it Bottomed out in the crank, bent the end, and stripped....
So that eventually the Crank timing gear back out and out come out of the keeper slot, so that the car would jump time, then at idle with no load it would go back in time.....

I had to replace the crank. I am sure glad it wasn't a diesel, as well massive ca-ca would of occurred.
When I dropped the crank, and took it to the shop to see if it could be repaired, my shop guys said they had to get the BIG gun out and it took over 300ft/lbs to remove the bolt, and the bolt holed the crank out of place so much that they couldn't heli-coil it.....

Yep timing and RTFM is always a good thing, that and having friends with pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
Been a while, but soon I'll have some time and I'll be dropping the tank ( as I should have a while ago). Aside from cleaning the years of diesel, it seems like something is clogged up because the tank made enough pressure to put fuel all over the floor and still hiss when I took off the cap.
Also, though it didn't come with, I think I'm gonna add a cat to the exhaust. Any reason I shouldn't?
 

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Bad mileage, and reduced HP.
 

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Discussion Starter #186 (Edited)
A lot of nothing going on, so the tank is out. There was still diesel in there after 2 times trying to drain and flush this thing. Thought I would need longer pliers but I got the screen out. Grabbing some new hoses for some of these and doing the beam bushings since it's apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
This bushing is the easiest I've ever gotten out. Need to clean the bracket and paint it maybe.

I am pretty sure the "gravity valve" is gummed up. Since those are 50 bucks or more, I'll try to clean it first and lastly maybe figure how to bypass it. ( and I got new soft brake lines for the back )
 

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The brakes lines are going to make if feel spiffy, and when i replace them with SS jacketed ones I blew out my rear wheel cylinder on one side so I replaced them both. You will find it easier to change with the axle dropped so you can get to both sides of that connector..... Be sure to clean the hardline nut and line to make it easy to reconnect, and use Never-seize or Teflon Tape on the threads going back.........

You can try shooting the Green brake kleen in the Valve and shake the peeeeeees out of it... it amy free up, but as that is a safety issue I would change it of suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Got my bushings put together


Was cleaning the tank and I feel like it's been out before. The screen was in wrong, but that could be nothing. The nipple for the gravity valve was majorly junked up so that may have been part of mt pressure issue, as the gravity valve seems to move freely. Not sure. Still need to get the last bits out of the inside of the tank and clean out some light rust.

Hadn't thought of it, but this diesel fuel fill neck might be weird. I was wondering if I could put a vented cap on here and I feel like maybe that doesn't work...
 

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Couldn't hurt.... All gas caps should vent by nature..
 

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Even on my 81 Diesel I got used to the pusssssssh of air or Vacuum when I removed my cap on the tank when I went to fill it. Don't forget that fuel will expand Vaporously when warm weather occurs so never totally fill the fill tube allow for expansion, which is the sound that you hear when you remove the cap. Make sure your Heat shield on the exhaust is fastened.

My gasser Cabby's do the same thing, and that is a vented cap. I know that there is on the gassers a vacuum hose or hose that runs from the gravity valve to the fill tube to allow air to enter and escape the tank when filling so the pressure of the fuel from the nozzle doesn't burst things. To be honest I would be wary if I didn't hear the tank evacuate (fart) when I removed the cap I also would put a thin layer of Grease on the seal after cleaning it and the
fill hole as when I would shut my car off after a long run and hear air escape from the cap as a loud whine.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
I wouldn't be so concerned except that it pushed a lot fuel out of the return line when it was just sitting. Thought I know I could just cap it or just use a regulator with a return, it seems like it should not make that much pressure if it's working properly.
 

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I have found that on Gassers if the in-tank pump connection hose is holed cracked or that the Fuel Pressure Regulator is wonky, that the tank can pressurize to 45psi.... In actuality the Gassers hold pressure in the tank to assist in preventing vapor lock and that is a good thing, which is one reason that on Gassers that are injected, you should turn the key to run for 4 seconds to allow the pumps to prime the lines, then start the car. I have done this on all my FI injected cars save for the Diesel..which the ip has to spin to produce fuel pressure.... On FI gassers it can prevent a flooded system, and totally wet plugs will not fire, you can flood the pistons with gas that seeps by the rings if weak and allow gas in the oil via the crank.
 

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Also ifn't ya want you can get a gasser fuel filler pipe that accepts the Gassers cap. I do know that on Cabbies that have been replaced you have to trim it as it is usually a 10 gallon tank filler neck, and the latter 13 Gallon tanks used in 84.5 and newer ones (space saver spare) used a slightly shorter filler neck.
 

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Discussion Starter #196 (Edited)
I feel like this is probably the best option, and I think that's the last diesel thing on the car. I'll look around for one, probably best to stay 84 and down.
Tank is going back in soon. ( I found a gti filler neck. it's on the way. Now to get a cap, HA )

Also ifn't ya want you can get a gasser fuel filler pipe that accepts the Gassers cap. I do know that on Cabbies that have been replaced you have to trim it as it is usually a 10 gallon tank filler neck, and the latter 13 Gallon tanks used in 84.5 and newer ones (space saver spare) used a slightly shorter filler neck.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Got the new neck in the mail. Though it was the same at first, but it has flaps on both ends, where the diesel one had neither. However, it does take the same cap.
Weird.

Either way, on to the front of the car again.
I think I need sharper bits.
 

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Or a Corded Drill, Can't believe they are OEM. If the are bolts and nuts use a Impact or Long breaker bar and torque sheer the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #199 (Edited)
They are riveted in ya. I suppose a corded drill might have more torque possibly. I might also hit these with the angle grinder.

Edit : Drilled the heads off and used a hammer and punch to pop them out.
Gonna clean em up and paint them while I wait on the parts.
 

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Use a tad of Never-Seize on the Post going back to prevent them fron Rust welding to the strut, when you replace the struts later on you will be thankful for that.
 
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