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Discussion Starter #201
After a little bit of messing with the fuel system I have the car running a whole lot better. I corrected some pinging and the engine idle doesn't wander very much. There's probably still a vacuum leak or two.


Realized I was running the car off of the battery and the alternator is not fully charging. It was doing about 12 volts and under. I know that there should be an Exciter wire but I don't know for sure if that works without a gauge cluster. Mine wasn't lighting up and upon inspection a lot of the printed circuits are messed up. The wiring is still wonky from the previous owner so I'm doing my best. I'm not even sure the blue wire existed. I'm pretty sure when the car was still diesel I was just running a jumper wire or some sort.
 

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Look up on google Exciter circuit hot rod.... you will find many an example basically a lamp in the circuit back to the battery, with a 1n4004 1/2 watt diode...IIRC
 

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Discussion Starter #203 (Edited)
update : While I did find a greenish blue wire and connected it, my cluster is knackered so I ran a temporary jumper from the + battery post to the exciter post and got 14.5.
I need to find a cluster, but I have a few switches laying around in case.
 

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Looks like mine aren't permanent to the socket or were changed at some point.


but these look like the replacement mentioned in the post above

If you go to a local parts store you can find the bulbs only and the better way to do it, using the same style of bulb. If you look for a 1990 Saturn SL and get the part number of the warning bulbs they are a higher wattage, and give you more light....Would be a tad cheaper....
 

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Discussion Starter #207 (Edited)
Waiting on the bulbs. Did good continuity tests on all the printed circuits, so I hope that works.
Otherwise the car is running a lot better.

there's a lot of confusing master cylinder swap info and dead ends.

I am not sure how my lines are supposed to be run. I've had more domestics than german. Original master had the rear lines in the bottom and the front on the left side. My swap master has 4 ports, 2 front 2 rear. I was sure it'd be front closest to firewall, but I'm seeing stuff saying different.
*edit : I found a couple diagrams
front


Rear


this looks do-able.

I'm also a bit unsure about my proportioning valve (block) but that's more about possibly doing disc later.
 

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The last one is what they used on golfs and Cabriolets as it is weight related to the opening of the ports to allow increased braking at the rear on heavy loads. Similar to what Chrysler did on the LE minivans in the 90's and the difference is that on the Chryslers the thing was part of the left rear spring assembly..A pain to change.

All I have ever seen is the Older Diesel Rabbits, and the later Cabriolets, I have never seen the weight proportional valve in use. I have seen photos of it in the uk forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
The last one is what they used on golfs and Cabriolets as it is weight related to the opening of the ports to allow increased braking at the rear on heavy loads. Similar to what Chrysler did on the LE minivans in the 90's and the difference is that on the Chryslers the thing was part of the left rear spring assembly..A pain to change.

All I have ever seen is the Older Diesel Rabbits, and the later Cabriolets, I have never seen the weight proportional valve in use. I have seen photos of it in the uk forums.
Yeah, mine only has the one in the engine bay. I have been told I can rebuild 944 prop valves or use after market. I keep seeing Wilwood "residual" valve but seems like that is a different animal?
 

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The vw MK3 prop valve is still available but around $200. You can make a bracket to keep the ride adjuster at a fixed height. Thats how mine was setup on one of my MK2's until I junked the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #211 (Edited)
That's a thought. Could try to get it near the original spot.


The vw MK3 prop valve is still available but around $200. You can make a bracket to keep the ride adjuster at a fixed height. Thats how mine was setup on one of my MK2's until I junked the car.
 

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Sorry for the spammer, but I took care of them. Now back to our regularly scheduled thread.
Briano.

Can't advise on the weight related valves on a mk1, only seen pictures of them on a Cabriolet, and I knew they were on some trucks.... I do know what a PITA they are on a 90ish Dodge Caravan LE, as they were part of the rear leaf spring assembly and sold with the leaf spring.....

I know on my Cabby, I had the 2 on the MC that were on opposing sides, and I never had any issues with the brakes on that thing as I was fully loaded with folks 2 in the front and 3 in the rear..... Zipping down the interstate at 75 Plus, and in stop-n-go town traffic.

I think if you changed over to the Cabriolet system (larger MC and Proportional valves you would be fine, and the Vented rotor's with Ceramic pads never failed me or heat faded....
(Vented Rotors require thinner pads.) and the best part is they were dust-free unlike the organic mettalic.....
 

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@briano1234 the master cylinder mounted prop valves have been NLA for about 7 years. I had this dilemma when putting together my 85 MK2 golf. Even used ones are hard to find. Ive heard leaking ones can be rebuilt but they need to use brake fluid resistant o-rings.
 

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If I only would of known your need about a year ago when I totaled my blue one, I would of stripped the valves out of it, and gladly would of given them to you. If I see a Cabby in the yards, I will took at the valves....
 

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Discussion Starter #215
I hear ya, the stuff I should have saved off some of the cars I sent to scrap.
I'm almost done plumbing in a Wilwood/ Summit knob style valve. Most of the factory style options cost more than I paid for the car and it's just for occasional fun. Getting hot in the garage again so I want to finish a few things before I have to on it work nights only.
 

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That will definitely work and is a cheaper option. Just will take a bit to get it set where the rear brake "proportion" is not locking up the rear wheel on a sudden stop :)
 

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Except for that horrible tape job on the wire :)
 

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That wire isn't so bad but the lack of brake fluid in the reservoir may make a bit of a difficult moment when going for the brakes.
 
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