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Discussion Starter #221
I didn't spend an hour and a half bending brake lines to not put fluid in when I bled it. Give me a little credit.


That wire isn't so bad but the lack of brake fluid in the reservoir may make a bit of a difficult moment when going for the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Got a good deal on a set of snowflakes (avus). That makes 3 sets of wheels I've had on here and I haven't been around the block.



Also got a wiper motor with some stuff but it's from a mk4 and only have 4 spades. No black wire, so not sure if I can use it.
Riveted together too.
Looks like this one, but I don't have the pigtail.
 

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I know you can use a mk3, but never heard of the mk4 set. Look at the Vortex IIRC there was a discussion on that mk3....to mk1 swap
 

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Discussion Starter #224 (Edited)
I'll worry about the wiper later. Had to adjust the shift rod, think I have that settled.
Starting problems again.
Starter doesn't spin and solenoid doesn't engage, but the X relay clicks.
So far I've
1. Checked the switch, same click.
2. Put a thick gauge ground cable on a starter mounting bolt
3. Tried another possibly good X relay
4. Jumped 30-50 terminals and across the solenoid poles, spark but no change ( no spin/ engagement )
*5. Touched ground cable directly to solenoid negative. No change

Could be the starter too
Probably time for that ford heat soak relay

Edit : the oil light blinks when the switch is off but not when I turn it to run.
 

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oil light blinking is normal for a non-running engine.
Look for 12v on the starter solenoid, if that isn't there when the key is moved to start, then see if Jumping the Solenoid straight to the battery will move the starter. Make sure that the solenoid pick wire in on the as you look at it the right side of the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #226 (Edited)
oil light blinking is normal for a non-running engine.
Look for 12v on the starter solenoid, if that isn't there when the key is moved to start, then see if Jumping the Solenoid straight to the battery will move the starter. Make sure that the solenoid pick wire in on the as you look at it the right side of the solenoid.
Checked both of those out this morning.
12.7 with the key on. I may have checked that before but didn't put it on the list.
Jumped the ground cable to the solenoid, nothing different.
I'll pull it off later when it cools off.
 

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If you jump the Solenoid direct to battery and ground and don't hear a click and the starter spin, then I would suggest that a starter may be in your future...You can remove it and run it by a parts store and have it tested.

I used to do that with a Eagle Premier that I owned, I would part out a junk yard car, test it on my Cars battery, then run it by Autozone or the like to have it tested, if it pasts about 3-4 tests in a row I would say it's good...same for alternators, as I got 4 bad ones in a row from napa,,,on the last one I had them all tested, and sure enough 3 of them were as bad or badder than the one I brought in...the 4th one passed....

Don't get me started by the Napa Manager that told me I had an electrical issue, I handed him his butt on a plate after the tests...
I also asked him about the rebuild dates that said 1994....so they had been sitting on the same shelf for 10 years...Afterwards the parts counter guy came outside and thanked me for raising cain with the manager as the parts guy said he was an arseclown and needed it.

:) .
 

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Discussion Starter #228
I had that happen with an AutoZone alternator. I took one home and it didn't run. I brought it back and the guy at the counter swapped it out no problem. When the second one didn't work I tried to take it back and they told me something must be wrong with my car. I went back home and drove the car to the store with the crappy alternator installed. They tested it putting out barely 11 volts on their own gear. I asked for my money back and went to advance. I had them test the alternator right in front of me and then I put it on in the parking lot. Sold that Subaru two years later with the same alternator still on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
I pulled it off and as I feared, it's dead. Gonna look around and see what I can find. Thought about getting one from a pick and pull and changing the brushes and such. Wide range of prices refurbished.
 

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Upgrade to the year 2000 automatic TDI starter. Much better starter and no more replacing the bushings in the transmission ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #231 (Edited)
Upgrade to the year 2000 automatic TDI starter. Much better starter and no more replacing the bushings in the transmission ;)
My engine is from an 87 and the starter is a small form factor like that. I got a cheapy since the car has barely been out of the driveway and I just need to not have to push it.
Started up much nicer. Once I replace the axles and work on the steering rack it'll be set!

Well and put a dash in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #232 (Edited)
Looked up more about my spare engine and the head is a solid lifter 373-h with 40mm 38mm valves, but the interesting part is that it seems to have a higher lift cam too.
I'm gonna investigate further but maybe after I've been on the road a bit I can swap to this head and and get a header to go with it. Winter swap? Not sure.

OR maybe a 2.0 bottom end to go with the head?
Planning is not my forte
 

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Discussion Starter #233
I've had this for a while but it has a broken off stud where the two parts meet. If I've already got a leak at the exhaust clips, wouldn't this with a thick gasket and proper torque be an improvement?




 

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Left hand drill bits, and a reversible hammer drill will get the stud out, use about 2 sizes smaller than the stud.
soak it in PB-blaster s couple of days.... youtube left hand drill bits to get a feel for them if you haven't used them to remove a broken screw/bolt.
 

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I LOVE left-hand bits for getting out those stubborn bolts and such. If you go up in drill size from something smaller sometimes the heat and vibration cause the rest of the bolt to come out. Then just chase it with a good tap and don't forget anti-seize when installing.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
I've used an extractor, but not the bits. I can try that I suppose. I could barely get a drill started on it, but this could be a dull one.
 

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Discussion Starter #237
So of course when I try to remove the broken stub properly I end up drilling through. So I just did it oversize and tapped it. Good enough.

 

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been there a time or 3
 

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Discussion Starter #239
Lots of work in the garage during quarantimes. Put the dual outlet downpipe and a muffler on the car.


Got a pair of rebuilt spindles so I need to source good 90mm axles to go with. After that I wanna go through the steering rack and I think I'll have done everything but re-do the wiring.
 

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I know that when I got rid of my Cracked out the Arse manifolds for the g60 and dual downs, I noticed a whopping 200hp difference in the Seat of the pants driving. :) Welcome to the club..... Just be sure to make a heat shield for the steering rack, as I used an old license plate to shield my Rack. IIRC you don't have power steering so The manual racks are tougher. I really likes the older GTI/Scirocco style. and the Bracket that bolted it to the block to make it rigid and less prone to cracking...
I had one 90 using a pace setter header that worked great as well but I had to modify it to fit my 90 as it clunked a wee bit..... That 90 after putting in the short throw shifter and re-working the exhaust and air intake was a blast to drive.... Too bad a Jeep Liberty Decided to meet up with me by Accident. the jeep had to be towed, I drove off....

For the CV's I have a good rebuilder north of me in Buford, I take them up in the morning and I get nice ones back by noon, CV source is the name, and I do think they can ship...they just charge you core, until they get your old ones back. I trust his rebuilds over any I have gotten from a parts store...
CV Axle Rebuild | CV Source Inc | United States . Don't as me but I will tell you that a CV that has been done by CARDONE is a accident that is waiting to happen, Shoot anything by Cardone.

And I have both 90mm and 100mm rebuilt by CVsource.
 
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