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Discussion Starter #121
I have a better understanding of the system now. (Thank you cabby-info.com)
Looks like this was lambda and I'm not finding the parts I need. Some of the parts like CPR and Thermo-Time Switch are on engine but I'd have to hunt down everything else . Since I already have some suitable parts and know how (from my chevette times) I think I'll get a carb on here for now. I have been told that I can still run the ignition side of CIS, but the only part from that I have is the distributor.

Decided to clean up a bit since the header is off.

 

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Discussion Starter #122
Getting things labeled, removed, and tucked away to drop the diesel. Gotta grab some chain and the proper tool to remove the intake ( 8mm? ) and the axles ( 12 point?)
I also sprayed all the engine mount bolts with PB Blaster.
Should be about ready to lower out of the car.

And I guess I get to figure this out how to get those exhaust clips off.
 

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To get the Exhaust clips off, I usually used a #2 phillips and inserted them in the hole and sprung them off.



For your diesel, I would take all the metal water outlet flanges and put the on your newer engine as they won't distort and leak later on. I converted all my plastic ones on the 93 2h over to metal off the older Diesels.

Once you get the Axles off Bungie them up on the Shock towers or springs to keep them out of your way.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
yeah, I just used anger, stubborness, and a crowbar to get the clips off.
I'm gonna clean and maybe paint the engine bay while I wait for parts. I feel like with the way wiring was when this car arrived, maybe I should do a wire tuck, as sort of an appeasement.
We'll see.

 

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Try "Totally Awesome" it is Cheap and effective available at Family Dollar but the 16 oz spray or half gallon, usually at the dollar store for a buck. Spray it on, let it work for a few minutes, then re-spray and Scrub then rinse. I have seen it pit paint so don't leave it on too long.

Wrap up the CV's with Baggies and wire ties, keeps crud out of them as well as water.

HMMM id that a hood latch that seems to be missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Yes, the latch was getting stuck a while back. I never figured why, but there were only 2 rivets on it and even after I got it secured the hood would still get stuck so it's off for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
The passenger side diesel engine mount bracket is different. I have to either hunt that down or remove and cut this one.
 

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Before you go chopping and hacking something of value would you like me to look in my stockpile of engine parts and see if I have that bracket that mounts across the front of the engine? I would be willing to part with that part as I don't plan to use that engine in any car at this time. Just do a PM and let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Looks like I'm becoming a collector. the only way it seems like I'm gonna get the ignition parts and mount bracket (etc) is to get this other engine in my area.
What a ride. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #130
So I realized I haven't done anything about the tank or fuel pump yet, but picked up some good stuff. Got the right ignition stuff, and the engine mount I needed, (along with the whole engine and some sort of MK1 CIS if I wanna try it)




But also got what seem to be GTI flares. The front seem right, but something is off about the rear that makes me think they are just fronts (might be wrong though)
 

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Can't swear to the arches, as I thought the left front was the right rear and vice-versa.
The engine mount is correct, but the mount is toast as I can see cracks in it.
I have a gimmie for extending the life a wee bit and to prevent the engine from dropping and messing up the
shifters alignment when it goes again.

Take a chunk of the old mount after you cut it out and fit it at the top.


I used to use throw-away sockets which also worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
I got heavy duty ones, but I was considering putting something in them, maybe epoxy even? Currently I'm pulling all the wiring out of the engine bay to clean up, re wrap, and possibly tuck into a hose under the fender.

The guy I got all this stuff from has a 2 owner cabriolet that's way clean, but he's an aircooled guy. Just getting all the water stuff new homes.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Everytime I pick up or drop off a part, this happens.




What do the motors on these do? Height?
 

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Either that or front to rear, never had a set.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
The motor tilt. Gonna swap them side to side. Keeps the piping on the driver from getting more hurt, hides the wonky bolster, and the passenger is in better shape. I might try woolite to clean these, but I am not sure.


Looking forward, I need to clean the tank and get a pump. I am not sure if mechanical or electric is better. the holley Weber doesn't need a ton of pressure, but electric with a regulator could be more consistent? Maybe.
2nd 1.8 has a bracket on the valve cover that seems like it'll be helpful. Not sure if it's factory.



Also, I am getting a header or different factory manifold because I am not doing clips again. Ha, even my second motor has clips. It was in a bus and has some weird stuff going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
So I'm getting into it again. Got plugs for the injector ports. Is there some sort of sealant I should use here? RTV?


Carburetor is looking good. I used an empi linkage but I am unsure about the attachment so I'll have to look into it.


Currently going with a mechanical pump but may use an electric to keep volume up later ( as my dad did on his camaro year ago)


And here this mount from the engine that was in a bus. A chevy alt fits it, so I can only wonder what it was for besides getting the alt really low.


Other than pressing the mounts in and cleaning up the wiring I think everything is going alright.

Things are looking less diesel and new to MK1 lately.
 

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That lower mount reminds me of the York a/c mount. What it is mounted to is the upper pivot of a Sanden mount, or an original alternator mount for non-a/c equipped cars. Normally they used a long bolt through the whole mount as if you look at the front of it there is the Bushing that when you tighten the pivot bolt on the alternator or a Sanden a/c compressor it draws in and squares the alternator to the mount.

The Chevy alternators were a popular upgrade for the 55A alt that was on the Diesels for folks that wanted to up the amps for a stereo/amp/sub upgrade.
 
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Discussion Starter #138
I didn't like the way those plugs fit, just didn't seem like the right thread pitch, so I did the penny thing. I pulled the engine bay wiring through the firewall and I'm planning how to run it along the drivers fenderwell. I just think it'll look nice, considering how the car was when I got it. Suspension stuff is up in the air, but I kinda wonder if just plain jane struts and shocks with cups up front and plates in the rear to lower it would be a better set up than knock off coils.
 

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Folks have been using that penny trick for years. Struts and coils, well i am but an OEM type of guy. I like the stance that I have and with my old bones I don't want to lower it at all....
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Well, that took a while.
Anyway, back to it.


Still want to change to CE2 wiring but we'll see.
 
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