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Discussion Starter #161
I didn't have the bearing seated right, and not that it's all in correctly it feels even better. The horn seems to be in working order now, and I figured out the wiper switch has one step below off, so I didn't look like and idiot asking why it wouldn't turn off with the key on. I will be trying to swap wiper motors though, this one is slow and an extra ground hasn't helped.

Hesitant to drop the tank, but still seems like it'll be better for the car in the long run. Might be taking trip to check out some parts like an Abarth exhaust, which I don't really need.
I'm just throwing thing at the wall here and there, but it's still pretty fun.
 

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Yes they are, but you will appreciate the feel once on the road.....
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Fixed some vacuum leaks and got the tank and cleaned the tank. Almost ready to put the dash back in, with the diesel cluster for now, suppose I might get a small tach to be safe. I found my old timing gun and I can't tell if it's not quite working or if the motor is wandering. It's the FI distributor from an 87, so it looks like if would be set at 6* before tdc. Not sure that should be different for carburetor. I have a vacuum line from the dizzy to the port on the carb, but I haven't tried it with that off. I could still have a vacuum leak somewhere though.
 

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No on a Carbed unit from reading in the UK forums setting the timing to @ 3 BTDC and then setting the CO2 is paramount to the smooth running of the Carbed units. Vacuum leaks play havoc on these critters similar to the older 2tc models of Toyota's that I ran. The Hall sender Dizzys can wander a bit, but actually you set the timing on them to 750 rpm after the engine is up to temp, and not cold. On my 92's it is only set @ engine warm, and at 2250 RPM...you can't set it with the engine at idle.... (There is a different way to set the Digi using a DVOM on a cold engine, that works well but on a CIS it doesn't work right.).

I did think that you have to remove the vacuum advance off the engine to time it, and plug the vacuum leaks as well as plugging off one of the vacuum lines on the engine. I will do a quick search in the uk mk1 forums to get you to a thread....

You might also want to look at timing a 86 Dodge Omni, or Chrysler Horizon as they used carbs and the 1.7 VW engine on those as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
The CO2 ? I'm not sure I know what you mean. I'll have to get a tach before I know the rpm, so that'll have to wait. The dodge info isn't easy to find, for some reason, but that's a similar carb to what I have and might help. I'll check the uk forum too. I was way off, I had it beyond 6, so I set it back and it is better. I did find another big leak, need to find a better grommet and check valve for the booster.
 

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On the older exhaust ports there was a CO2 take off with a blue cap... You used a gas tester to check the co2 level.
little blue cap to the left of the throttle body.

 

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Discussion Starter #167
Happy Holidays!
This keeps getting easier. I'm checking boxes off right and left. Still no tachometer to really see where I'm at, but I've dialed the timing to about 3btdc and found the worst vacuum leaks and now we're starting and running nicely. The booster is toast though, engine nearly dies when I apply the brakes, but with the hose plugged and the brake depressed it runs fine. I suppose a booster upgrade could be good so I'll start looking into that. I haven't done a lot to the brakes besides vented discs, so I don't know how much I need a bigger master, but it could be a good time to do that. Oh, and my heater valve leaks. That's hopefully easy enough to fine.
 

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go with a porsche 944 heater valve it is more like the OEM gate valve and is easier on the control unit.



You can see the difference.
here
 

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Discussion Starter #169
That heater valve looks like a good idea. There is a lot of confusing information about updating brake booster and master cylinder.
 

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Get the master and the booster off a cabbie. You will have to remake the Lines a wee bit.
Your fluid level sensor will be relocated to the res cap, and the proportional valves will be moved to the Master Cylinder.... This along with new SS jacketed rubber lines from the hard connect to the calipers, and to the rear axle hardlines will increase your braking power.

You will also note that you can change from solid rotors to the 83 /Cabriolet/GTI vented rotors and pads..... Just my t20 thoughts.

There is a Company in Texas that will rebuild your booster... if you can't locate a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
I did do vented a while back. Super easy.
I'll look for the cabby gear, if my booster is bad, the master can't be much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
I'm modding a MK2 booster and master into the car, and so far that's fine. Making sure I get the hydraulic lines in the right place. Can't find my proper bender, so I need to pick one up tomorrow.
Read too many threads about cleaning up the engine bay and now considering deleting the coolant overflow, heater core and hoses. I'd rather not loop the line, so I might wait till I have a nicer radiator and use a smaller tank.
 

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Wondering if perhaps I should embark on getting my Caddy swapped over to Cabbies MC and improve the brake lines in the process. Mine seems to have terrible stopping power. Not so good as I now have the turbo on and more power under foot.
 

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With the Cabbies MC you will probably need to re-route the brake likes as you have a different proportional valves, and then go with Hawk or similar Ceramic Pads and vented rotors off of a 83GTI or later Cabriolet, I would also suggest that you change your rear wheel cylinders. If you also change the rubber hoses for Teflon centered SS jacketed brake lines you will not believe the pedal response as there is no ballooning of the lines at all under pressure.
 

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With the Cabbies MC … you will not believe the pedal response as there is no ballooning of the lines at all under pressure.
Not to hijack a thread here but I like the increased pressure idea. Likely that my old lines do balloon like crazy under pressure. Without being there to see it, how would you know? I was thinking of doing the pressure test on each wheel. Bentley spells it out and values you should see. I just need to convert a bleed valve into an adapter for a gauge I have that goes up that high.

Thanks for giving me more ideas to spend money on parts. But it is for SAFETYS SAKE dear, I REALLY NEED these SS lines.
She rolls her eyes, whatever, it is your money honey.

YES!!!
 

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When I replaced them on my Green Cabby, I couldn't get over the feel of a solid pedal.......
I think it was some of the first things I did on my blue Cabby, the really impressive was when I rebuilt my Calipers.. and got all the inner bit shiney, and smooth.........
 

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Discussion Starter #177
That wasn't too bad. All mocked up. Have to take it all back out again to clean up, put the reservoir seals in, and paint the booster. I fabbed up a little extender for the rod. Seems good though.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
I'm not sure where to find the info, but if I remove the heater pipe, valve and block off the port on the engine, couldn't I run a hose (or straight pipe) from the pump to the expansion tank and it still work like a closed system?
 

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I had a heater core go out on me on my Caddy a week back and I still wanted the use of it so I just took a longer section of hose an looped it enough that it didn't kink and routed it from the heater valve back to the hose off the head. Kind of a pretzel look but I didn't have to worry about anything leaking or getting too hot. All I did was delete the heater core.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
I had a spare distributor from when I bought the engine and I decided to install it today. I guess I need a more clear set of instructions, I have a Haynes manual that is just a little bit confusing and most of the stuff I found online was either missing pictures or seemed to leave information out.
I lined everything up before removing the original distributor and everything seemed mostly fine. I didn't do anything with the belt. As far as I can tell I'm supposed to line it up with the top dead center mark on the flywheel and not be 6° one. Everything seemed mostly fine but the new distributor didn't have B timing mark on it ( that seemed to be the worst of it).

Now the engine isn't starting and the most I can get popping out of the carburetor regardless of the adjustment of distributor body. I'm going to attempt to line everything back up and try again. Hopefully the worst case scenario is I'm off by a a tooth or something.
 
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