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Discussion Starter #1
About a month ago my rear running lights stopped working, found out that Fuse 6 on my 2014 Jetta SE was blown. After replacing with a new 10a fuse everything was fine. However, about a week ago it blew again, after replacing it this time, it blow as soon as I put it in. I have tried tested all the rear running lights with a multimeter and each one seems to be functioning correctly. Does anyone have any idea why fuse 6 would blowing so quick?
 

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Blowing a fuse means a dead short to ground.

Unplug your tails, ALL of them, and headlamps, and see if the fuse still blows when you
plug it in. If not, plug in each lamp, see when the fuse blows. The headlamps have
a running light too, each corner.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have to run to the auto parts store to pick up more fuses and will give that a try. I'll post results in a little while. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Every light was disconnected (rear running, brake, all headlamps, from and rear dome lights). Put in a new fuse, it blows immediately. Not sure where to go from here
 

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There is a short then, somewhere between the BCM/CECM and the lighting,
and the light switch.

Might even be the CECM... It's not going to be easy truing to trace down
a short when there are so many places it can be happening.

You might have to unplug the two large plugs at the BCM, and put a fuse
in, see if it blows. IT is under the dash, upper left... The CECM supplies the
power to the lamps, so if it has an internal short, it will blow the fuse.

So, even if the lights are off, you put a fuse in, and it blows, or just when
the light switch is at the on position?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it depends. Sometimes the car is off and the fuse blows immediately when a new one is put in, other times you have to turn the key to the on position and then it blows.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lights do not have to be in the on position for the fuse to blow. I have also tried removing the light switch and the fuse still blows.
 

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I unplugged the two large plugs on the BCM and replaced fuse and the fuse did not blow. Turned car on and the fuse still did not blow. Started the car, turned light switch to the in position and the fuse is still good. Does this mean that the BCM has an internal short?
 

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They're the same thing...

Can get them on eBay, but there are two different models,
Euro and USA, they have different KeyFob frequencies.

This is from another thread, where a guy is having problems with his
running lights not working on one side, and I got him the CECM information:

You will need to access the CECM, and write down the LONG CODING
stuff, for example:
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 937 087 G HW: 1K0 937 087 G
Component: BCM PQ35 H+ 103 0572
Revision: 00103 AE
Coding: 6D180A1E90272A0480080081700005C441010086434D8D6064 8020200000
Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200
VCID: 354FFB8E9C2080B0C2A

That will need put in the CECM you place into the car. Highlight and COPY it,
paste into a TEXT editor (notepad) & save. Then, when you put the replacement
CECM in, load and COPY it from notepad, and paste into VCDS.

Make sure the battery is disconnected when you do the swap.

Also, with part numbers? Say yours is 1K0 937 087 G, you need the same
part number, including the G if possible. If you get one with a J, it
is a later revision, not sure how it will act, but VCDS should still be able
to program it with your copied code.

DO not get a EUROPEAN model, your remotes won't work, different frequency.

CECMs with 315 MHz radio key/carrier frequency (USA) end with the letters A, C, E, G, J, L, N.

SO, one with a Q will not work for you...

Here is a replacement example, with CVDS screen shots:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/169586-vw-polo-diy-upgrading-bcm-body-control-module.html

This is a European model, if course, but the procedure is the same.

FACTORY mode is only if you ordered a brand new one, that has no programming.
 
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