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make sure positive and negative never come into contact with each other while the charger is on, results in a blown fuse. That goes for the sacrificial scrap and the piece being de-rusted. add a tablespoon of Caustic soda powder to the water and stir it in, watch any cuts on your hands as it stings. Here is the edge of the plate with tiny bubbles coming off it as the process takes place.
View attachment 44167
Do you use regular water, or. De ionozed or distilled water, or one Any better than the other?
 

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Discussion Starter #602
Do you use regular water, or. De ionozed or distilled water, or one Any better than the other?
hot tap water with a spoonfull of Caustic soda, you could add salt to improve electric movement, but I've never found it necessary.

A couple of hours and out came the plate with the grease, rust and dirt laying loose on the surface ready to be sloughed off with a rag.
44169


in goes the pedals, but only the pedal pivot bar fits under water in the bowl, so this will be done in two parts.
44170

bubble bubble toil and trouble free.
44171
 

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hot tap water with a spoonfull of Caustic soda, you could add salt to improve electric movement, but I've never found it necessary.

A couple of hours and out came the plate with the grease, rust and dirt laying loose on the surface ready to be sloughed off with a rag.
View attachment 44169

in goes the pedals, but only the pedal pivot bar fits under water in the bowl, so this will be done in two parts.
View attachment 44170
bubble bubble toil and trouble free.
View attachment 44171
i have never heard of doing this, thnks man
 

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Discussion Starter #605
What Amp setting?
erm...ah... on. there's no amp setting on my battery charger, just an on off button, if it were a more complex,expensive car battery charger then I wouldn't be using it for this, use the battery charger you got from a garage sale or a car boot sale, cheap and cheerful.

the water gets dirty, but don't chuck it down the drain yet, the more debris floating around in there the better. It makes the current flow more effectively.
44173


pedals clean and jet black ready for re-assembly.
44174
 

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Discussion Starter #608
now on to ball joints, I got tired of waiting for the Heritage Centre to call me when they have some new one's in, so, taking a close look at the one's already fitted to the arms, all their rubber dust covers are split.
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they are still available from Heritage parts and only cost £2.75 each.
so off they came, in pieces.
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there is a metal spiral securing ring that holds the dust cover firmly to the stud base, to keep constant velocity grease in and road dirt out. This came off with a hammer and screwdriver.
44181


with a good wipe over with a rag to remove the grease, an inspection shows that these are re usable, just need the new dust covers, when they arrive tomorrow
44182
 

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Discussion Starter #609
getting the dust cover on the lower ball joints is easily do-able.
44192


the upper joints are a different proposition altogether, there is no way I can get the dust cover over the adjuster.
44193


so the rubber boot will be covered with self amalgamating tape and the bottom drilled and tapped.
44194
 

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Discussion Starter #610
tapping the 6mm deep hole to take the grease nipple,
44195


with the nipple screwed in, a grease gun attached and a few pumps later, the fresh grease forces out the old grease through the small hole in the boot, success. Now where did I store that roll of self amalgamating tape.

44196
 

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tapping the 6mm deep hole to take the grease nipple,
View attachment 44195

with the nipple screwed in, a grease gun attached and a few pumps later, the fresh grease forces out the old grease through the small hole in the boot, success. Now where did I store that roll of self amalgamating tape.

View attachment 44196
If you are like me, you will get tired of looking for it, go all the way into town, buy another, and then find the old roll, I do that all the time
 

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Discussion Starter #612
feels good to be actually assembling something for a change, offering up the stub axle knuckle to the ends of the suspension arms. I later found it was easier to connect the lower arm first then pop on the upper.
44197


the arms went on easier than I expected, just line up the grub screw hole with the dimple in the torsion bar and in it goes, topped off with a lock nut.
44198
 

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Discussion Starter #613
I still need to get my hands on the tape, it's in the post, so I'll be taping up the upper ball joint boots with them connected.
44199
 

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Discussion Starter #614 (Edited)
Ok, finally got my hands on a roll, now I can continue where I left off....
44203


temporarily distracted with my Daughters new pet, his name is Teddy. For a Kitten he's amazingly interested in VW Beetles, or is it just Beetles.
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this is the first one I'm dealing with. A split in the upper ball joint rubber boot. A good wipe down to get rid of any grease on the outside.
44205


tape wrapped around the boot, let that set hard and then pump the boot full of grease through the new nipple.
44206
 

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Discussion Starter #616
re-assembling the steering linkages. All new tie rod ends. a Joy to re-connect.
44215


quick twist of the steering mount to see that it all operates as it should,
44216


Teddy, says, "don't forget that needs alignment fine adjustment in due course, to make the car road legal" Thank you Teddy but we already know that......
44217
 

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Discussion Starter #617
the anti sway bar was up next, when I realized I hadn't given it a coat of paint.
44218


the rubbers get a dab of copper grease so they slide on into place.
44219
 

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Discussion Starter #618
first, the bar is tied on with string, just to keep it near where you want it.
44222


the rubbers need a spray of WD40 so the clamps don't bind when you squeeze them closed to slip on the clip.
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knock up the tab and it's locked into position, job jobbed.
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