[Rusty-bug-man]

the main pipework was subjected to pressure wash, the larger diameter pipe left water rush through,

but the smaller one is jam packed with carbon, from one end to the other, no wonder there was a cooling issue leaving black deposits all around the engine.

carbon head to foot

the main pipe will need to be drilled out, so I'm going through the elbow both ends.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

jugs back on, time to take a close look at the cylinder heads.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

I thought the push rod tubes wre made of treated cardboard, but on closer inspection they are aluminium, so I can clean and reuse them.

the original rubber seals can find one last task, the diesel flush, I'm going to do after this test re assembly.

then I'll take it down again and re build using new rubber seals

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

with the right side cylinder head fitted, tightened up in a certain order laid down in my manual.

the tubes fitted with their old rubber seals

I knew it was worth keeping this old .22 rifle cleaning rod handy, there's plenty of greasy guck inside the tubes.

with both heads fitted, time to re fit the drain plug for a big diesel flush through.

 

[JohnNewb]

How will you flush it? Fill and dump or some kind of pump?

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

I poured the diesel in through the filler hole and turned the engine by hand for a few minutes.

I unscrewed the drain plug and out came the diesel fuel into my bowl. Once back in the bottle this was the colour of the diesel, not as black as I was expecting.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

the studs, various disasters.

the stud stubs left behind, need drilling out.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

tackling the first broken off stud today, drilling it out.

it takes ages, but when that drill bites and the swarf twists to the surface, very satisfying.

with a smooth hole where the stud used to be

tapping out the threads

finally test fitting a brand new stud. all but four of the studs cleaned up ok with a die screwed down over them cleaning up their threads, one down, three to go.

 

[JohnNewb]

So, are you using left-handed drill to remove the studs? We commonly use EZ Outs. You drill a hole in bolt/stud center. Then the ez out is supposed to grab the bolt and unscrew it. I almost always break them off in the hole and then have a broken stud with a case hardened piece if metal in center.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

never hear of EZ outs, may have to look those up. Stud number one fits ok, now on with stud two.

again, took ages to drill it out, but finally, the tap was ready to use.

to break the monotony of drilling out the stud I separated the exhaust box and heat exchangers into three parts, only one heat exchanger is worth cleaning up and saving.

the other two thirds is on the scrap pile.

the fan box and engine tinware out of the way for now, but plenty of work to be done to save those, later on.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

more stud shenanigans, this time on the other side with stud three, my problem isn't being able to grip the stud enough, it's the amount of torque needed to free the stud from the block makes me aware that the weakest point might be the metal of the head around the stud breaking off, each time the studs break. first off with the old gasket.

just a quick look at it's replacement for comparison.

apply a little heat to expand the stud and hopefully release it, so I can just wind it out.

well I live in hope that it will happen for me one day, in the meantime I've ordered Dewalt extreme two, new sharp metal drilling bits.

 

[JohnNewb]

It takes a lot of patience and a few choice words.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

finally treated myself to some Dewalt Extreme 2 drill bits, they went through the stud metal like a hot knife through butter, I made more progress in five minutes with this drill than a whole day with the others, Quality means everything with tools. And drill bits are no exception.

so that's the last exhaust studs replaced, time to move on to another part of this rebuild.

 

[JohnNewb]

So, are those drills "anti-clockwise" to jam in stud and back them out?

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

So, are those drills "anti-clockwise" to jam in stud and back them out?

no, straight drills, re tap and screw in new studs.

the order of bolting down the head, shown in the Haynes manual

new round white seals on the push rod tubes.

23 foot pounds max torque for the head nuts

head back on in the order described in the manual

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

next the oil cooler seals, I'm going with the two on the right. The two black one's on the left are the old originals I've just removed.

test fit, they go on just fine.

the oil cooler back on

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

starting to look good.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

drilling through the carbon build up blocking the pipe with solid material, very satisfying breaking through after drilling in from both ends and joining up the drillings.

the carbon drilled out like compressed soil, here's some of it in my dustpan.

I'm going to widen the drilling through the carbon in the tube as much as I can to let more hot air pass. Then it'll be time to weld up the holes either end and de-rust the outside.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

turning the engine over I'm worried about the forward and backward movement of the pulley wheel as shown in the video I shot above, does this throw a shadow over this engine I wonder, there's no apparent movement of the pulley wheel with the jemy bar, only when the engine is turned.

 

[JohnNewb]

Does the pulley move if you try turning to different positions? Seems like it has to move statically if it moves that much when rotated. I don't know what it indicates but guess crankshaft or main bearings. My knowledge is limited but I remember on Wheeler Dealers show that crankshaft movement like that is not good. Good luck. Are you tearing motor apart to rebuild?