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turning the engine over I'm worried about the forward and backward movement of the pulley wheel as shown in the video I shot above, does this throw a shadow over this engine I wonder, there's no apparent movement of the pulley wheel with the jemy bar, only when the engine is turned.
Possibly a silly question, but is the pulley itself bent? Can see the pulley wavering like that due to a crank shaft issue, or a bearing issue,even a worn crank shaft thrust washer could only allow front to rear movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #783
thanks for the replies John and Wayne, I don't think the pulley wheel is in great shape at all, but the whole wheel moves in and out, could well be something deeper inside, as you say the crank shaft journals or the bearings, either way I'm at a junction here, repair what I have, get a new engine or go electric motor and convert it.
 

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You could mark the shaft and see if the crank is moving in and out or the pulley is bent. Electric would likely give you more torque and power but you would lose your "boot" if that is where the batteries would go.
 

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You could mark the shaft and see if the crank is moving in and out or the pulley is bent. Electric would likely give you more torque and power but you would lose your "boot" if that is where the batteries would go.
Recently saw a video of a bug converted to electric, his project used 12 batteries, 8 in back seat area and 4 up front. Added 800 pounds weight, top speed 70 mph, 7 hour run time
 

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That's a lot of weight. Mike from Wheeler Dealers show has a car related show thus sumrsmer here. One episode was visiting rpea shop in Southern California that was putting used Tesla motors in vintage cars. Mostly Porsches. One was a VW bug with a ridiculous amount of horse power. Depends on what you like. I like keeping classics classic. Or with a little performance boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #787
slowed right down late into winter, but I thought I'd do a winter check, see how the body is coping being out in all this rainfall we've had.
44762


it feels like most of the rain has ended up in my floor tub, like a swimming pool for Penguins.
44763


I sponged out that freezing rain water, three buckets worth.
44764
 

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Discussion Starter #788
gave it a good clean out and dried it off, krusted some small rust spots, but overall it's doing ok considering the conditions. Back on with the rain cover and some more elastic bungee holders to keep the rain out. Nice and tight for the rest of December, lets see what 2021 brings us, can't be any worse than this year.... he says fingers crossed.
44765
 

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67 Bug. 2275cc, 10.1:1, 48IDA,Eagle2242Cam,2300Lb clutch, 3.85 diff. Lowered,roll bar, 5pt, swaybars
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Rusty-Bug-Man,
Just looking through your adventures. Looks like a lot of progress but a lot of labor on just about every system or body part. That's some commitment :)
I noticed on #640 that you wondered if the boot goes in the cross member hole. It is, as you installed, a press fit seal.

You have a lot of the car together already but I would have recommended you replace or add a 1/4" SS fuel line in the tunnel. If you, or next owner, ever decide to build a high horsepower motor, the stock line might be a restriction. It is easiest to replace when the body is off. Did you cut open the tunnel to reweld the clutch cable tube. There may be fractures or rust after all these years. If rusted, you may have to replace it.

Additionally I would advise you use urethane rear transmission mounts. Urethane front mount would be good but probably not needed. I have seen a lot of VWs with oil getting on the stock rubber mounts, as yours did, and they will deteriorate over time. If you use urethane mounts they are a bit stronger and you won't have to replace them again (cheap insurance).

Make sure you paint the brake line heading for the rear along the tunnel if it is not SS. Water can collect by the tunnel,during rainy seasons, and eventually rust it out.

Also I would recommend putting a 3/4" sway bar on the rear of the car since it has a swing axle. Also install caster shims on the lower front axle tube (very easy/cheap to make from pipe stock). Handling will be greatly improved, especially at highway speeds.

In #779, if the pulley moves in/out, I would suspect you have not put the flywheel on and/or have not set the end play yet. The front main bearing has a surface for shims to run on between it and the flywheel. After you set the end play (probably about .004" to .005"), you should not be able to see the pulley move in/out. Once that is done, check the pulley to see if it is bent. Bends generally mean someone has pried on the pulley with pry bars or screwdrivers to remove it.

Keep up the good work and us informed with your progress.
 
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