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Discussion Starter · #961 ·
well, I would have sprayed Mickeys third coat but other events overtook my time, like the first airshow on the south coast for two years, well worth the wait, now my Little Sister is visiting from West Virginia, so I'm distracted even further from attending to Mickey, normal VW restoration service will resume shortly.
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Discussion Starter · #962 ·
stripped down the spray gun after another coat, good clean off with a rag wet with thinner.
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A gun needle, B needle spring,C needle end cap adjuster, D nose spray cap.
these tiny air holes have to be kept clear of drying paint and debris, or the spray pattern will be affected.
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digging through the box of parts removed in the big strip down, found the number plate light cover and the other wing light cover, these both need preparation for body colour paint.
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the lighting wires to be removed...
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unscrew that, unplug this and away it goes into storage in a marked sandwich bag.
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Discussion Starter · #964 · (Edited)
the rear light cover has a graze in it.
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I usually use what I have at hand, and as I'm a keen model maker I have milliput to hand, great little filler for small jobs like this, it's a two part resin product that mixes and feels like Plasticine. mix two equal parts together.
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when the two parts are mixed to uniform colour, I roll it in with a cocktail stick.
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leaving it proud so I can sand it back flush.
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the wing top light cover has some chips in it's leading edge, so Milliput can fix those too.
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you invariably mix up too much, but that's ok, I roll the surplus into a test ball, so I know the filler has cured rock hard before I sand it smooth.
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Discussion Starter · #966 ·
the primer on the repaired part, you can hardly see the crack now.
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the luggage bay will need a further coat of chassis black carefully applied by brush. It's suffered Pearl white overspray. The under side of the bonnet lid will need a coat or two of black too.
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never owned a beetle before, I'm wondering if I've rigged the bonnet hinges right as this is far as it will open.
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the same goes for the engine bay, paint that and the underside again with chassis black.
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Discussion Starter · #967 ·
stirring the paint with equal part thinner, just a small amount to paint the passenger door and the light tops. It looks like I'm mixing melted vanilla ice cream.
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the paint shops offer these filters for free, just grab a bunch at the door as you leave. they filter out any lumps that may clog the airgun.
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decent coat on the light tops.
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door painted, I'm quite pleased with how that turned out.
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let that lot dry off for a couple of hours, just the roof top to finish off now.
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Discussion Starter · #968 ·
on goes the light top for a trial fitting . I've not done a lot on mickey lately as I've come down with a bug, that's ok, as I need to await the arrival of a 1 litre can of gloss clear coat, known as clear over base in the motoring circles. It should be here Thursday and I hope it will even the gloss finish overall and provide a hard covering and protect it from UV drying out the paint.
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Discussion Starter · #970 ·
The floor pans needed sponging out again as they had filled with rain water, after a wipe down, I wanted to check out a couple of things before I re-cover the chassis and crack on with the clear coat.
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the fuel pipe starts here on the right side of the frame head, obviously it's fed from the fuel tank suspended above, but the fuel pipe leads inside the frame head and down inside the tunnel.
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trough the junction to emerge here, this is the filthy original fuel filter on the end of a flexible length of hose. This needs renewing, or at least cleaning. I'll try passing a length of wire down the pipe from one end to the other to clean it out and get clean thinner running through it.
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Discussion Starter · #971 ·
I need to rotate the right side rear swing axle boot so the seam is atthe three O'clock position, at twelve it will just lead pressure to that seam when the arm moves up and down.
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I got the other side one on ok, I just need to get the wrong one to fit like this..
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Discussion Starter · #972 ·
cleaning the gun,bowl and bowl cap between the colour coat and the on coming clear coat, can't afford any contamination between the two.
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I then experimented spraying the clear coat neat, then with a mix of 50/50 thinner.
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for whatever reason, the thinned clear seems to drag every piece of dust out of the air and trap it in the layer on the wing, so I'll let that dry and lightly sand it before going again in two days with neat clear coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #975 ·
today was a sunny warm day, perfect for getting bins of loose parts out for a clean.
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give all the spiders webs and dead insects a pressure wash to get rid of them along with the accumulated dirt.
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then given a scrub in soapy water.
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I seem to have four rear light to choose from, their chrome bases look to be in good condition.
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this one is out of the running right away...
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this air filter oil bath looks interesting, and it's right for a "72", needed all the dead insects blasted out and left to dry in the sun for a while. A bit of surface rust, so I'll electr dip it to try and keep the German writing.
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Discussion Starter · #976 ·
using my older battery charger, water with a spoonful of caustic soda, make sure the black terminal is on the dome, inverted in the water, and the red terminal is on the sacrificial piece of metal, in this instance a worn out surplus to requirement Morris Minor gear stick.
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an hour later, a scrub with an old toothbrush, the rust is running off, but I've lost the tiny red script I wanted to save for originality sake. Never mind, a gloss coat of black will go on here, back in for another hour.
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Discussion Starter · #977 ·
an hour later, and there's no sign of rust, ready for a coat of krust, then some primer before a coat of gloss black.
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in goes the bottom half, rusty end under the water, now with the water full of rust, the electric will flow more effectively.
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Discussion Starter · #979 ·
there are some pinholes to deal with..
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the only screw holding the tin on was heated up and it gave way and unscrewed.
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so into the fresh clean hot bowl of water. With a spoonful of caustic soda, look at it bubble. the sacrifical metal sending up bubbles on the left, the piece sending up a line of bubbles on the right.
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Discussion Starter · #980 ·
All the renewed parts cleaned and repainted, placed up out of the way on the top shelf in the
garage.
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the next part for cleanup is the wiper mechanism, rust up solid, that is easy to strip down and derust the frame
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although this isn't an overly complex piece of kit, I still took loads of pictures so I can reassemble it without trouble or head scratching.
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