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Discussion Starter · #981 ·
when it came out I noticed the VW stamp on the frame, couldn't see that under all the rust and crud, this picture shows the pitted surface, well usable, strong. but each of those pits would have had a tiny indivisible spot of rust, ready to grow under the new paint. that's stable now, time for a spray coat of acid etch primer.
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Discussion Starter · #983 ·
tested the motor with a battery and it works just fine. the perforated heater channels ready to go onto the top shelf to await assembly. I'm doing this and watching the Queen's Funeral live broadcast, so I'm still working at a low rate, popping in and out of the workshop.
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the wiper spindels are mainly of non steel construction, but have rusted small studs that are bubbling away quite merrily.
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finally got around to replacing the crocodile clip with a new one, that should last so long as I keep it out of the water.
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Discussion Starter · #984 · (Edited)
all the parts for the wiper mechanism ready for assembly
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I used a rawl plug as a stand in for the missing bush on the wiper frame moving joint. I cut it down and filed the internal hole till the stud swivelled on it without jamming up.
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a smear of copperslip on the moving joints and assembled it up, with a 12v battery and it spun around smoothly. Black wire to earth on the metal casing of the motor, and red to the fast wire.then the slow position wire, all works great
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that's the first working part of the project ready to fit when the time comes, right now it's going on the finished parts shelf, safely up out of the way.

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Discussion Starter · #985 ·
the heat exchanger I saved has run into a snag, the flap that opens to allow air through has jammed up solid, the flap itself seen here being moved with the tip of a screwdriver.
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but the control levers A &B are stuck fast, won't budge, some patient tapping and spraying with WD40 might work.
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Discussion Starter · #986 · (Edited)
Soaking it in WD40 overnight helped free up the linkages, the flap opens and closes properly now. it's a strong unit, typical VW. I now need to order the linkage extension kit for it.
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and I've purchased a used heat exchanger for the other side, bit of a gamble, but it's £12 as opposed to a new one at £100, if I can get this freed up like the other one I'm saving a chunk of Mickey's Budget.
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Discussion Starter · #987 ·
the body jacked up on timbers resting on axle stands to give me access to the bottom surfaces of the heater channels.
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passing a tap up through each of the captive 8.25 nuts, just to ensure the threads are clear and ready for when the time comes to join the body to the chassis.
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then a coat of krust to fix the surface rust that has developed during the restoration.
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Discussion Starter · #988 ·
with the chassis black given 12 hours to dry under the channel bottom surfaces, I spun the tap in again to clean the nuts of any fresh paint on the threads, but none of it got there, the tap just spun.
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so I lowered the body back onto the trolley and made sure it was lined up, I may have to clamp it somehow so it doesn't shift when I wheel it out to join the chassis.
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some paint on the lower front, but there's areas are going to be sound proofed, but it will help preserve it.
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the left over paint used up on the first wheel arch, it got a fit fumey under there so I'll do it in two parts. This chassis black is perfect applied by brush, so simple and easy to use, and it gives a great finish.
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