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Discussion Starter · #1,041 ·
first off, the retaining nuts. Separate the Carb from the pipe.
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I'm looking at this thinking, the surface rust on the mild steel part will benefit from a electro dip.
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the body is cast metal, hopefully that will have it's dirt and fuel staining lifted.
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so into the bubbling turmoil, lets see how it all looks in a few hours.
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great news, I'll be looking in and making comments and observations, "what the world needs now"...... is another Beetle restoration Story.
There's always room for one more 😋

And I should have added to "And good news (if you like bad jokes and terrible puns)", horror and shoddy workmanship (some of it probably on my part 🤪)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,049 ·
during the test to see if the throttle stop screw bore against the moving stepped plate, I noticed that the limiter stop pin was missing, so I glued in a screw and cut the end off with the Dremol mini cutter. As you can see from the image below, the pin will stop the plate from swinging right around to the wrong position, making the carb impossible to tune.
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that wasn't the only reason this carb was in trouble, the throttle stop screw wasn't engaging with the steps in the rotating plate. the angle is all wrong. When the screw is tightened inward. it misses the steps completely.
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so taken apart, the bend angle adjusted, the threads redone with a tap and die. Now the tip of the screw touches on all of the steps so the idle will stay tuned as the engine warms up the vacuum advance. Picture below is the newer Carb and how it should look.
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and the screw Engages with each of the steps, the older carb now Fixed.
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Discussion Starter · #1,053 ·
remove that blue towel that's stopping the bonnet from jam shut, replace it with something waterproof, till I can find the cup.
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hope for some dry weather next week, in the meantime, I can heave a sigh of relief that I got it together, time now to get a rainproof cover on the whole kit and caboodle as it's about to chuck it down.
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Hope I can still get that access panel lid back on, I've still got some work to do down in there.
View attachment 47838
The back of the panel slides under the crosspiece.

The best part of doing the floorpans with the body on was that I could check the bolt hole alignment against the heater channels before putting it all together. Most of them had to be 'adjusted' or the bolts were never going to fit through 🙄



And some pre-emptive advice... if you're going to be taking the cylinder heads off you will need this to get them back on correctly.
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Discussion Starter · #1,055 ·
Thanks, very helpful info, I'll take note of that cheers.

car under wraps on todays wet drizzle, time to do some de rusting of small parts.
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out of the dip and medium grey, the tank washers behind kurusted turn a purple colour.
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four surviving body washers and the two front washers in grey paint ready for use.
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surviving body bolts passed through a die to clean up the threads, I'll be able to secure the body until the new bolt set arrives, postal strike allowing.
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these two spacers were in the box, can't remember now where they go, but I'm sure the Heritage website with jog my memory, for now it's in the dip for these two.
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these two spacers were in the box, can't remember now where they go, but I'm sure the Heritage website with jog my memory, for now it's in the dip for these two.
View attachment 47847

They look a lot like these (which I also need to clean up)
Auto part Cylinder Metal Pipe Gas


They go inside the Napoleons Hat and the bolts holding the brake master cylinder go through them. They then stop the two sides of the Nap's Hat from being squeezed together when you tighten the bolts.


Talking of gaskets... well someone somewhere probably was... have you got one to go under the petrol tank around the opening?
And did you put rubber doodads between the front axle and the body before you put them together? There's two go on the beam under the body mountings and two go on top under the bolt washers.
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There's a lot of little things to remember when putting a Beetle back together 🤔

edit There's also one (each side) goes between the body mount and chassis at the back, and I think there's another under the rear crossmember (also on each side)

If you've already sorted them out them please feel free to ignore everything I've said 🤪
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,057 ·
really helpful post Rustfinder, I am aware of the rubber do- dads as you call them, but the tubes location was enlightenment, cheers.

I still have yet to take delivery of the body bolt set, so it's on with the bonnet catch. It sits here, on the front panel and acts as a catch for the bonnet lock, needs to be pop rivetted in.
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it's linked to the glovebox by a long white cable, seen on the right here, just near the bonnet release lever pop rivetted to the cardboard glove box. Also on the bench in front of the glovebox, is the bonnet catch two parts, these screw together either side of the bonnet lid.
Food Newspaper Staple food Fish Ingredient


the catch dimple, secured by pop rivets, the little hole on the lower right is a screwdriver access to the catch screw that holds the white cable.
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the glovebox secured into place using the metal band secured and tightened by a screw in the bottom edge. The white cable, which way does that go I wonder? time for some old pictures.
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this picture taken in 2019, shows the white cable going down the center. it's caught and secured two inches down from the glove box left hand side, by a bracket. then it heads off to the left hand side. (right side of car)
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here it is peeking out from the right inner wing, running along under the front presumably meeting the catch on it's left hand side (right side of car)
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the bolts set arrived late afternoon, great move forward.
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I am aware of the rubber do- dads as you call them
In that case ignore everything I said about them... in fact...


You ain't seen me... right?
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But I will tell you how much fun there is to be had if that bonnet cable snaps... or comes out of the clips holding it in place... or the release handle comes away from the side of the glovebox... or if the catch just feels like jamming shut for no reason at all 😆

My bonnet release handle is under the dash next to the fusebox, meaning the cable has more of a straight run (disregarding the curve at the front) and less chance of playing silly buggers 😋
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,059 ·
Today was a trial, lining up the body holes, got the first one at the rear in, not tight as there are movements to be made to get the others in line.
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the other side is 15mm out, I've placed a drift pin in there hoping to hear it ping as it drops into place and tells me it's lined up and ready for a bolt.
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the front bolt holes need to move 15mm to the cars left, this will line them all up, so I'd better lift and push the front 15mm to the cars left.
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