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I've had quite a week, my computer has finally bitten the dust so I've invested in a new one, the bad news is that I've lost my old e mail address.
the good news is that I can start a fresh as Re-build- a bug man with no mention of rust, all Mickeys rust has gone now, so It's all assembly and wiring.
 

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Here's a fine example of how not to overthink an issue, always try to consider the least path of resistance. So my Moggy Pickup, two rear wheel bolts won't tighten, so off it all came, the drum, shoes, snail adjuster. Lucky that the new stud goes in without having to pull the hub, just enough room between it and the brake backing plate, out came the marked pair of studs, in went two new one's.
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in they went using a nut to squeeze the splines into the hub. The old one doesn't look too badly damaged,
not enough to cross thread it. Low and behold, it's the wheel lug nuts that are faulty, would have been such a easy fix.
Dough!
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Take your time RFG, remember, we do this, not because we need a car, we do it cos we like a project, what's not to like about a Tinker?
I do like a project, but mine is definitley for driving though. She was my daily for many years before 'The Big Rebuild' and none of the replacements (more like stand-ins) have ever been the same 🙄


Here's a fine example of how not to overthink an issue, always try to consider the least path of resistance. So my Moggy Pickup, two rear wheel bolts won't tighten, so off it all came, the drum, shoes, snail adjuster. Lucky that the new stud goes in without having to pull the hub, just enough room between it and the brake backing plate, out came the marked pair of studs, in went two new one's.
View attachment 47998

in they went using a nut to squeeze the splines into the hub. The old one doesn't look too badly damaged,
not enough to cross thread it. Low and behold, it's the wheel lug nuts that are faulty, would have been such a easy fix.
Dough!
View attachment 47999
Don't be too hard on yourself... I once replaced an entire gearbox/axle/rear drum assembly, only to find out the reason the car no longer moved was because the splines had worn away in one of the drums 🤡
 

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the oil filler and dynamo base bolted down over the oil filler thin metal grill.
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the attached oil breather pipe leads downward and exits below the tineware line.
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when I offer up the rearmost tin, they clash, so it needs a hole cut adjacent to that bolt hole.
I've marked the pilot hole A here, but it needs reaming out wider to accept the breather pipe.
the larger bole is for the heater pipe to come up from below.
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Remind me, which air filter do you have? Is there a large pipe that goes to it? If there isn't then I don't think you need that (broken) hole, and may have the wrong tinware. If there is a big pipe then ignore what I said.

When I had a single carb on my 1600 engine it had one of the big plastic air filters, and there was a pipe the same as the heater ones from the fan shroud that connected to it and went through the aforementioned hole.
 

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good points there RFG, here's a picture of the engine prior to stripdown in 2019, the breather pipe appears to go down at a tighter angle through the tin, the hot air pipe does look to come through that larger hole. it's all a bit odd as it seem to have shifted since 2019.
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Only just realised what you're doing (bit slow tonight). I think your oil breather pipe is in the wrong place, it should slot in the tin that the dipstick goes through (as far as I remember, it has been a long time since I had the original oil filler fitted)

And that older photo looks like you have the extra piece that comes through the tinware (in the 'broken' hole) for air to the filter. I lost that piece after an engine rebuild at a friend's house in the early 2000s (I actually think he stole it as he didn't have one on his engine)
 

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you're dead right about the pipe to the air filter, I managed to bolt up the rearmost tin, and bolted the hot air pipe in too. so far so good.
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my main issue now is that both cylinder tins have their screws sheared off flush, so I either drill
and tap them or weld on studs. The latter sounds the better option.
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The only way to tell if the fan grates when on the engine is to bolt everything in place (fan shroud, dynamo strap) and then spin it. It can catch if the shroud is just slightly out of place, but you won't know until it is fitted properly.
If it is still catching then shims need to be added on the shaft between the dynamo and the fan collar.
 

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The only way to tell if the fan grates when on the engine is to bolt everything in place (fan shroud, dynamo strap) and then spin it. It can catch if the shroud is just slightly out of place, but you won't know until it is fitted properly.
If it is still catching then shims need to be added on the shaft between the dynamo and the fan collar.
Or it could be on the fan collar, it's a veeeery long time since I removed my alternator from the shroud. On the last rebuild I just lifted it all as one piece.

You have a chip pan air filter. I had one when I bought the Bug, swapped it for the long plastic one with the paper filter, then got twin carbs with separate filters
 
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