[The Rustfinder General]

excellent info RFG cheers, here's the air filter before I cleaned it up, with two big air entry or exits.
View attachment 48034

The big one under the 'handle' goes to the pipe in the tinware, the small one on the side connects to the similar looking piece on the oil filler via a thin braided pipe

 

[Re-build-aBug man]

Thanks for all that information RFG, time to take the fan and dynamo out of the shroud.

the dynamo off showing the woodruff key still in place. The fan nut was tight, had to fix the pulley
main nut in bench vice and use a extension on my spanner, but it undid slowly.

three stages of disassembly, two thin plates before the fan comes out.

close up of the woodruff keyway.

 

[Re-build-aBug man]

for a while I was getting used to not seeing any rust, mouse pooh and nesting debris.
out finally with the fan itself.

all the parts laid out on the bench. Some de rusting needed there...

the fan sits comfortably in my electro de-rusting bowl.

the fan shroud, stripped empty and in need of a clean up and de-rust, but it's too big for the
bowl, have to use the wheel barrow again.

pretty grim inside there, been host to a whole family of Mickery Mice for a while.

bubbling away, a very satisfying scene.

 

[Re-build-aBug man]

So a good probability for the rubbing, the nuts were missing that hold the Generator's bulky weight against the fan shroud, are missing. This could be why the fan rubs when the shroud is placed upright on the engine, the generator is then horizontal but not connected to the housing correctly, easy fix. When it's all nice clean and rust free.

 

[Re-build-aBug man]

to get the Generator apart, I have to unscrew these studs.

they travel the whole length of the Generator and unscrew from this end.

the screw heads are underneath this spinning cap, apparently held on by this keyed nut.
I have tried to pop off the cap, but the nut flange looks to be behind it, holding it on.

I have tried to heave on the nut with a spanner, but so far it's not loosning, I'm frightened to
muscle it as I don't want to damage anything, not understanding it so far...should I just lever it
off with an extension?

 

[Re-build-aBug man]

The book says leave it, don't take it apart, swap it for a recon, or clean the commutator through
the window, having removed the brushes, check them, clean up as best you can, then perform
the electrical tests. So I'll do that instead. It all spins well with no notches or rumbles.

 

[Re-build-aBug man]

With the brushes out, I can clean and inspect them for wear or damage.

closer they look grooved but curved to fit with the commutator

a good peek inside, we can see the commutator windings, with grooves between them A. the
removed spring that pushes the brushes into contact B, The walls of the brush housings C,
The electrical contact point the brushes screw to. And E is dirt cleaned out by a Stanley Knife
blade, from the grooves.

 

[The Rustfinder General]

I recommend replacing the brushes, they're not expensive. I did mine when I fit a new internal regulator in my alternator.
Which reminds me, a good thing to do is fit a voltmeter in the dash area. It was the meter that let me know the regulator was faulty. The needle isn't really supposed to swing back and forth with the engine running 🙄

Dynamo Brush Set for12 Volt

<P>12 volt dynamo brush set.<br>If your dynamo is intermittently charging or not working at all, it may pay to check your brushes first. <br>Brushes are one of the most common reasons for charging faults and the cheapest part to replace.<br></P>

www.heritagepartscentre.com

the screw heads are underneath this spinning cap, apparently held on by this keyed nut.
I have tried to pop off the cap, but the nut flange looks to be behind it, holding it on.
View attachment 48052
I have tried to heave on the nut with a spanner, but so far it's not loosning, I'm frightened to
muscle it as I don't want to damage anything, not understanding it so far...should I just lever it
off with an extension?

There is no keyed nut, it's all one piece. It should come off the shaft with some gentle persuasion 😉

It's incredible how long it took to find a photo of the pulley wheel with its two components separate! I was beginning to think it would be easier to go outside and remove mine 🙄

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

Thanks for taking the effort RFG, very helpful, I'll give it another go, can't be that much wrong with it, famous last words.

The Fan itself look very nice in it's red brown old shotgun colour, the tins getting Kurusted too, glad I took all the dismantling pix above so I know how it fits together.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

the shroud getting wire brushed off as best I can, it's tight in there...

using little wire brushes in my drill, no point leaving any of the loose crumbly stuff on there.

need to get down to the pitted surface

scrubbing kurust in there with an old toothbrush.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

today it's looking like the kurst has done it's job, turning that rusty mess black and stable.

but deep inside, into the furthest reaches, there are still traces of rust, see If I can reach them
at a stretch and get some kurust to do it's stuff deep inside there. Ten I can think about some
heat resistant black paint in there.

 

[The Rustfinder General]

I was inspired by your hard work to go out yesterday evening and do some on my car.

Until I put a thermometer in there...

This was at 5pm

This was at 7pm

So I just stayed in the house!

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

I went into the workshop, just long enough to use some VHT paint to coat the inside surfaces,
had to use a fan heater to raise the air temperature so the paint would dry. The jar of water,
I use to wash out the kurust toothbrush to stop the bristles solidifying, had frozen solid in there.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

This was a chrissy Prez in a double set with a DVD I've still to watch, drawn to the book I've read the intro and two very interesting chapters, the story of the Beetle is so interesting,1938 to 2003, from Hitler and Nazi Germany to flower power and beyond, the story runs parallel to that of Dr Franz Ferdinand Porsch, the Kdf Stadt....

stats 21,529,464 beetles made, Model T ford is second with 15,007,033, from 1908 to 1927 3rd place goes to lada VAZ,2101, and derivatives such as Fiat uno 14 million, Renault 4 comes fourth 8 million.

This amazing story has been written and published, but yet so many books are still published telling the story in a different way, including little gems gleaned here and there.

it's a small pocket book that informs as well as entertains, the peg shows its pocket size, perfect for a long drawn out restoration like mine stalled due to cold conditions in the workshop, and too much booze and roast ham on the go at the mo.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

So the temperature has been reasonable in the workshop today, I placed the cleaned up Carburetter on the inlet port using a brand new gasket, bolted up
hand tight.

.

the fan shroud, continuing cleaning up the exterior surface using wd40 and elbow grease, the vents stick wide open when the tab A catches the curved protrusion attached to the moving flap to the right B, they catch at point C, and it takes a screwdriver to free it by bending B , maybe I should leave it jammed open, it's seldom freezing enough in the UK to need to have the vents shut.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

Watching Mustie on You tube, he does a slow rebuild and start of an old VW engine, step by step, so informative.
I learnt that the curved piece of metal on mine is sheared off, it should form a longer curve to slow the flaps from
flicking open, so they open gradually.

using rat nosed pliers, I bent the curve to let the flaps opening slow down with slight interference, that should work well.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

The engine is down from the engine stand and is now down on it's wood trolley. I can now have space to tighten that gland nut that holds the flywheel on.

the engine clamp in pieces unbolted from the front of the engine.

the flywheel attachment point.

the flywheel itself, covered in workshop dust, so that's the next thing, cleaning that up.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

wire brushed off and given a coat of kurust. The join area masked off.

when that had dried off, a light spray coat of VHT matt black.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

peel off the mask, it's ready to fit back on.

the flywheel back on, given a tap with a block of wood and a rubber hammer. The tooth lock bolted in place

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

wratcheted up as far it will go with the torque wrench, then a two pole extension to get it to 217ft lbs.