[Rusty-bug-man]

now for the last broken off bolt that will hold the fan shroud on, drilling that out is going well. Oncwe I cut it flush with the angle grinder and centre punched it.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

The flange wire brushed off. This is going well, so I'm stopping for now.so I can start on a positive tomorrow afternoon, after my dentist gives me two fillings in the morning, more drilling.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

drilled through and tapped to take the m6 screw.

the screw goes in nice and smooth.

trial fit of the fan housing onto the engine. The screws did up nice and tight.

General view of it test fitted up, it has to come off again to fit the fan itself, and all those shims in the same order.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

Thermostat now, purchased from just campers, you can't seem to get the bellows type anymore. My bellows is blown and expaned, even in a cold workshop.

quick test with a hot air gun and the new one does expand a little bit. It's up to it's highest point, trapped under the top of the frame.

I've ordered a replacement for the rusted out longer bottom air ducting plate, I'll be re-welding the top of the other one.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

the top of the shaped operating bar, that is meant to go from the Thermostat to god knowns were, its three inches in from the edge of the fan housing right side.

three inches in takes me to the fixed blade in the fan housing, doesn't make sense, theres nothing for the bar to connect to to open the flaps.
So to hell with it, I cut the bar and let it drop out, the end of the bar where it meets the thermostat are both female connections, missing a part here.

Never mind it's done, I'm wiring the flaps open.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

So the flaps are permanently allowing full flow, I don't live in a freezing climate so I'm ok with that. The two small baffle plates just click into place.
Something that went right for a change.

the baffle plate on the other side fitted up ok too.

moving forward a bit now, just need to get myself that new Dynamo and I can fit up the fan housing. Once I have the lower tin I can fit them up too, now that the thermostat issue is resolved.

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

a used lower tin arrived today, to replace the rusted out one, I will have to remove the heat exchangers to get them on.

 

[The Rustfinder General]

I thought you were still hibernating... and then I discovered that 'keep me logged in' apparently has a time limit!
I wasn't logged in so I didn't get any alerts

I am still hibernating as the garage is like a walk-in freezer 😱

 

[Wyttearp]

Great work and thanks for showing the steps taken!

 

[67bug]

I have been pretty busy with other automotive and electronics projects so am just getting caught up with your progress. It takes a lot of time and patience to get a rusted bug back into running shape. I have one in fully disassembled shape right now and a 69 Karmann Ghia to make a restoration decision on. You have done a great job so far.

In regard to the thermostat rod protruding in #1125, I think the photo in #1122 may show the place in the flaps where the right angle connects. Generally you would attach the flaps and the rod to the fan housing and then attach set it on the head shrouds allowing the rod to pass through the cylinder head area. It hangs down and you attach the thermostat to the wire and then attach the thermostat to the bracket. Once the engine is assembled, you turn the thermostat to close the flaps most of the way then heat the thermostat to make sure the flaps open completely. You need to check the thermostat to make sure it expands and contracts (when really cold) enough to move the flaps completely.

You really should see if you can get this to work. It will help on cold days to get the engine and oil up to temp faster.

You might try dropping the bellows/thermostat into some ice water or put in a refrigerator to see if it collapses.

Might be a bit late but the air deflector in #1126 goes against the bottom of the cylinders before the pushrod tubes are installed. It is currently under the pushrod tubes. This will cause the center two tubes to become oil heaters and cause the cylinders to run slightly hotter.

Thanks for all the updates and pictures. Others will find this really useful.

 

[Backformore2]

The bit of blue sheet metal and the other bits of sheet are tnware covers for a singleport type 1 engine, so they do go with what you have. Most of the parts I see are identifiable as beetle parts, apart from those concertina things. hmm, not sure about those. Heritage also on my doorstep. I've jsut seen off a mk1 Renault 5 restoration, ready to start my next. Planning to build engine first while I seek a car. Good luck with your project. 'Light recommissioning' it isn't!

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

Some helpful and welcome comments there Guys cheers, I'll move the baffle plates out before they do some damage to my tubes. The bottom plates are now going on, test first the left side one.

this lip is preventing a gas tight seal, so off it has to come.

and some off the angled edge to let it in toward the centre.

tight fit, no off with it to give it a coat of VHT matt black

 

[The Rustfinder General]

In regard to the thermostat rod protruding in #1125, I think the photo in #1122 may show the place in the flaps where the right angle connects. Generally you would attach the flaps and the rod to the fan housing and then attach set it on the head shrouds allowing the rod to pass through the cylinder head area. It hangs down and you attach the thermostat to the wire and then attach the thermostat to the bracket.

I've been trying to find a picture of this to post, but it doesn't seem to be something people take photos of 🙄

I would photograph mine if it wasn't for two things:

One - I haven't got round to taking the engine out yet

Two - I don't have a thermostat rod... or a thermostat... or the flaps in the fan shroud!

A previous owner must have removed the lot!
I keep meaning to get a new shroud but haven't got round to it, and 20 years later I've never had a problem becasue of the missing flaps/thermostat.
But I will get a new fan shroud one day...

Might be a bit late but the air deflector in #1126 goes against the bottom of the cylinders before the pushrod tubes are installed. It is currently under the pushrod tubes. This will cause the center two tubes to become oil heaters and cause the cylinders to run slightly hotter.

I missed that! 😳

Yep, deflectors go above the tubes.
Could be a pain to rectify 😬

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

painted black, the first bottom screw in.

after some trimming the right side bottom plate, heavily welded and repaired, painted in VHT Matt black.

 

[The Rustfinder General]

View attachment 48509

I swapped my exhaust nuts out for 12mm copper ones.
Less chance of seizing and the smaller size means a spanner fits better in the tight space

 

[Rusty-bug-man]

sprayed in it's new paint, trial fit of the right lower plate.

this fits perfectly at the back, where the right lower plate goes, so what's it actually for and where does it go.

the baffles are out, I may not have their use, but at least they aren't wrongly fitted, heating up my valve rod tubes.

test fit of the lower plate on the right side, rather good.

when the right side heat converters go back on this area will be hidden, no thermostate, no control rod, no baffle plates, I wonder how it will all go?