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144K views 1K replies 23 participants last post by  Rusty-bug-man 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all, I'm new to Beetles but not rust bashing and car restoration, slow time in my own workshop/shed.
someone I know is selling this sorry old rusty bug.

44647


I would want to return her to factory spec, I'm not into custom or soup ups. Unlike the previous owner who was using it as a donor car for the monstrosity sitting to her right.
44648


he told me the moulds for the front fibreglass wings for the "thing" are over there to the right under that moss and ivy, yes I thought, "and they can stay there too"
 
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#1,124 ·
Thermostat now, purchased from just campers, you can't seem to get the bellows type anymore. My bellows is blown and expaned, even in a cold workshop.
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quick test with a hot air gun and the new one does expand a little bit. It's up to it's highest point, trapped under the top of the frame.

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I've ordered a replacement for the rusted out longer bottom air ducting plate, I'll be re-welding the top of the other one.
Brown Wood Gas Font Building material
 
#1,125 ·
the top of the shaped operating bar, that is meant to go from the Thermostat to god knowns were, its three inches in from the edge of the fan housing right side.
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three inches in takes me to the fixed blade in the fan housing, doesn't make sense, theres nothing for the bar to connect to to open the flaps.
So to hell with it, I cut the bar and let it drop out, the end of the bar where it meets the thermostat are both female connections, missing a part here.
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Never mind it's done, I'm wiring the flaps open.
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#1,126 ·
So the flaps are permanently allowing full flow, I don't live in a freezing climate so I'm ok with that. The two small baffle plates just click into place.
Something that went right for a change.
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the baffle plate on the other side fitted up ok too.
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moving forward a bit now, just need to get myself that new Dynamo and I can fit up the fan housing. Once I have the lower tin I can fit them up too, now that the thermostat issue is resolved.
 
#1,130 ·
I have been pretty busy with other automotive and electronics projects so am just getting caught up with your progress. It takes a lot of time and patience to get a rusted bug back into running shape. I have one in fully disassembled shape right now and a 69 Karmann Ghia to make a restoration decision on. You have done a great job so far.

In regard to the thermostat rod protruding in #1125, I think the photo in #1122 may show the place in the flaps where the right angle connects. Generally you would attach the flaps and the rod to the fan housing and then attach set it on the head shrouds allowing the rod to pass through the cylinder head area. It hangs down and you attach the thermostat to the wire and then attach the thermostat to the bracket. Once the engine is assembled, you turn the thermostat to close the flaps most of the way then heat the thermostat to make sure the flaps open completely. You need to check the thermostat to make sure it expands and contracts (when really cold) enough to move the flaps completely.

You really should see if you can get this to work. It will help on cold days to get the engine and oil up to temp faster.

You might try dropping the bellows/thermostat into some ice water or put in a refrigerator to see if it collapses.

Might be a bit late but the air deflector in #1126 goes against the bottom of the cylinders before the pushrod tubes are installed. It is currently under the pushrod tubes. This will cause the center two tubes to become oil heaters and cause the cylinders to run slightly hotter.

Thanks for all the updates and pictures. Others will find this really useful.
 
#1,133 ·
In regard to the thermostat rod protruding in #1125, I think the photo in #1122 may show the place in the flaps where the right angle connects. Generally you would attach the flaps and the rod to the fan housing and then attach set it on the head shrouds allowing the rod to pass through the cylinder head area. It hangs down and you attach the thermostat to the wire and then attach the thermostat to the bracket.
I've been trying to find a picture of this to post, but it doesn't seem to be something people take photos of 🙄

I would photograph mine if it wasn't for two things:

One - I haven't got round to taking the engine out yet

Two - I don't have a thermostat rod... or a thermostat... or the flaps in the fan shroud!

A previous owner must have removed the lot!
I keep meaning to get a new shroud but haven't got round to it, and 20 years later I've never had a problem becasue of the missing flaps/thermostat.
But I will get a new fan shroud one day...

Might be a bit late but the air deflector in #1126 goes against the bottom of the cylinders before the pushrod tubes are installed. It is currently under the pushrod tubes. This will cause the center two tubes to become oil heaters and cause the cylinders to run slightly hotter.
I missed that! 😳

Yep, deflectors go above the tubes.
Could be a pain to rectify 😬
 
#1,131 ·
The bit of blue sheet metal and the other bits of sheet are tnware covers for a singleport type 1 engine, so they do go with what you have. Most of the parts I see are identifiable as beetle parts, apart from those concertina things. hmm, not sure about those. Heritage also on my doorstep. I've jsut seen off a mk1 Renault 5 restoration, ready to start my next. Planning to build engine first while I seek a car. Good luck with your project. 'Light recommissioning' it isn't!
 
#1,132 ·
Some helpful and welcome comments there Guys cheers, I'll move the baffle plates out before they do some damage to my tubes. The bottom plates are now going on, test first the left side one.
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this lip is preventing a gas tight seal, so off it has to come.
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and some off the angled edge to let it in toward the centre.
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tight fit, no off with it to give it a coat of VHT matt black
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#1,136 ·
sprayed in it's new paint, trial fit of the right lower plate.
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this fits perfectly at the back, where the right lower plate goes, so what's it actually for and where does it go.
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the baffles are out, I may not have their use, but at least they aren't wrongly fitted, heating up my valve rod tubes.
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test fit of the lower plate on the right side, rather good.
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when the right side heat converters go back on this area will be hidden, no thermostate, no control rod, no baffle plates, I wonder how it will all go?
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#1,137 ·
the front plate, blocks off hot air from entering the cabin, had been cut off short by the previous owner for some reason, probably to get it off.
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here it is before I removed it.
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1. the tin fouls the cast flange where it meets the bell housing, that needs to move back.
2. gap between the cast top curve and the tin. the clips are present to fix it down.
3. Cut off short, I have to remake that part.
 
#1,138 ·
I welded on an L shaped piece to be able to bolt down the plate to the cylinder covers front flange.
Red darts made from tape show me the location for the bolt holes.
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press that onto a solid timber edge for a punch to mark it ready for drilling.
Wood Finger Gas Fish Office ruler


holed drilled for the bolts, now I will dress the welds and clean up the holes.
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painted in vht paint, left that dry and fit it Tomorrow.
Wood Bicycle part Rim Engineering Automotive exterior
 
#1,139 ·
I would cut off the long exhaust port studs to about 1/8" to 3/16" beyond the nuts. Best practice calls for lightly coating the threads with "never-seize" before putting on the nuts (should also use on lug bolts/nuts or any threaded attachments that can rust). Shortening is important because the studs will rust often causing the studs to unthread from the head as you try to remove the nut which will probably jam with all the rust on those long studs. Also if the thread is real long it becomes a problem with interference between it and the exhaust manifold tubes. Never-seize is important to keep the nut from rusting to the bolt, another common problem.

The engine will work without the thermostat and with the fins fully open. Problems are slower heating up in cold weather, thicker oil for a longer time, barrel sealing is not as tight for a longer warm up time (less a problem with low compression ratios). You do know the cylinders grow as they heat up and so do the push rods. This is one of the factors in determining the valve adjust clearance, head nut torque and problems with aluminum vs. steel vs. chrome-molly push rods.

The air baffle you are holding in your hand is one of two. They mount to the rear of the cylinder covering sheet metal pieces, oriented similar to how you are holding them. In some of the cars you will find one or both with a ~1" hole, and a pipe, for a breather for the air cleaner preheat pipes. See the recent thread from Colonel Biggs asking about the air preheat pipe plumbing. There are pictures that help show where these mount. They are air directing baffles.

The sheet metal plate that has the piece cut off, was probably done to install it after the engine was already installed. Also the front plate is there for two reasons. The main reason is to help seal the engine compartment area so the fan only draws fresh air from the vents behind the rear window. That is why there is a rubber seal around the engine sheet metal where it meets the body. The second reason is to keep dirt and dust from being pulled into the fan from below the chassis pan.
 
#1,140 ·
If you are not familiar with "Never-Seize", it is a brand and a generic term for a molybdenum grease that is mixed with powdered nickel, lead or aluminum. Essentially it captures a lubricant in the threads along with a fine powdered metal paste which keeps water out and provides a metallic lubrication between the two iron/steel surfaces when loosened. Several manufacturers make it and a little goes a long ways.
 
#1,141 ·
Thanks for that lot Tony, very helpful. We have a similar product called Copperslip, to be smeared over threads.


the rear plate fitted at last. Bit of a struggle, but it's on nice ands firm and there's no movement or rattles.
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what is just as important to me is, it's clear of the cast engine curve where it mates to the bell housing, much gnashing of teeth and harsh language if that
were to foul the join come engine mount day.

now to clean up the clutch plate with brake and parts cleaner.
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#1,144 · (Edited)
Lever kits fitted to the heat exchangers.
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some compromise was needed as the fixings in the kit, the triangle clips were too big, so tap was wound on to make a thread and a nylock nut fitted, the levers are on nice and strong.
1. the link to the control wire that turns the heater flap open and closed.
2. lever return spring.
3.Nylock nut holding the lever firmly in position
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#1,148 ·
bolted up, the fan spins evenly, and even more amazing, it spins inside the fan shroud without scraping.
I know, I'm as amazed as you are. So, periodically spinning the pulley wheel as I bolted down the fan
shroud to the top of the engine. Just to check it was still spinning freely.

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here's the rub, I need to pack heat resistant material between the Dynamo and it's stand to keep the fan spinning free, when I push it down it grates.
So I'll pack that out before I fit and tighten it down.
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#1,149 ·
heat resistant packing material under the Dynamo, just a single 5mm layer, lets see how that goes.
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I bolted the Dynamo retaining band together with a two inch bolt after having cut threads in the band to take the bolt
I can tighten it up and still have the fan spin free.
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with an inch deflection on the belt, the fan rubs inside the shroud, needs a second layer of heat resistant material to raise the dynamo up......... start again.
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