Yes/no/yes, possibly.
The first thing I would test or replace would be the sending unit on the water outlet flange.
The Second First thing I would do is to Clean the Battery to frame wire, and frame to engine. If still OEM I would replace it.
Moving on to the sending unit, they do go bad, and I have a HOW DO I FIX them in the Electrical faq's DIY's.
I would suspect on the cluster a flakey gauge, or if your fuel gauge is acting up as well a bad or iffy 10V stabilizer which is a lm7810 device.
You can buy from ebay or dealer for 35-50 dollars even on-line, or use a FA7810-AET for 95 cents from mouser, or an electrical supply house, at that price you can buy a few as in 5, and send me half the price of the remaining 30-40 Dollars I just saved you
Bad grounds on the cluster as well as iffy 12V to it so check your BLACK wire in relation to the Ground wire on the cluster (brown) then compare the differences between pin 14 and Frame. I usually add a frame splice about 5 inches back of the connector on the brown wire with a Scotch-lok wire splicer and the frame with a small pilot hole, sand to bare metal using a ring connector and a self tapping sheet metal screw.
If your connector is like the ones I picture in my how-to's I add one piece of electrical tape under the mylar to force the mylar to make better contact with the pins of the connector.
The first thing I would test or replace would be the sending unit on the water outlet flange.
The Second First thing I would do is to Clean the Battery to frame wire, and frame to engine. If still OEM I would replace it.
Moving on to the sending unit, they do go bad, and I have a HOW DO I FIX them in the Electrical faq's DIY's.
I would suspect on the cluster a flakey gauge, or if your fuel gauge is acting up as well a bad or iffy 10V stabilizer which is a lm7810 device.
You can buy from ebay or dealer for 35-50 dollars even on-line, or use a FA7810-AET for 95 cents from mouser, or an electrical supply house, at that price you can buy a few as in 5, and send me half the price of the remaining 30-40 Dollars I just saved you
Bad grounds on the cluster as well as iffy 12V to it so check your BLACK wire in relation to the Ground wire on the cluster (brown) then compare the differences between pin 14 and Frame. I usually add a frame splice about 5 inches back of the connector on the brown wire with a Scotch-lok wire splicer and the frame with a small pilot hole, sand to bare metal using a ring connector and a self tapping sheet metal screw.
If your connector is like the ones I picture in my how-to's I add one piece of electrical tape under the mylar to force the mylar to make better contact with the pins of the connector.