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They is BREEDIN' !!

6455 Views 111 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  RuralTowner
Picked up another 1980 Caddy w/ factory shell. Found it back in November and its potential purchase was all part of "a plan" laid out upon selling the Lemon Snowball on the day it got it's eye punched out. Still have that car and still plan on selling on it...repairs have been made.
Now all 4 of these things...the 2 Rabbits + Caddys have all come from the same town about 75 mi away...the 4-door plus Some Assembly Requireds which came with numerous extras were from a single seller. The 84 and this 80 from two other separate ones.

Seller runs a tow yard and had purchased it off another guy who had it in storage for some months after the original motor 1.5D blew up. Has another in it that is BELIEVED to be a 1.5 but I've yet to confirm it. Engine cranks but cranks very slow with the starter in it. It bolts in fine but is skinnier than in any of the other's I have with an extra mounting ear on it. Am guessing it's actually for another VW model...gasser no doubt...and just doesn't have enough guts to crank fast against the diesel compression. Will be using the starter from the SAR Caddy since I know for a FACT it works properly since the one I tried using to test start it after first finding it didn't want to work when I installed it even though I tested it BEFORE heading that way with it.

Exhaust is the dual pipe and the flimsy flange on it is broke so it's held up with bailing wire for now.

The solid rubber shifter know with the molded-in pattern says 4 speed but I think it's actually a 5 in it now since I can get it to move into the top right corner. The only body damage on it is the wheel-well side behind the front passenger tire. Am guessing since the CV axle was no longer in the spindle socket that the ball joint had come out (the pinch bolt was missing) it had then fallen out which would've made the whole strut shift backwards. Other than some minor surface rust in the rain gutter along the windshield there is a thumb sized spot in the side of the cab behind the passenger door.

Asking price was $1000 but was able to get it down to 900 which is still a fair price. Seller first considered dropping some off the top if could keep the tailgate since the one HE has has a bad crease in it but opted not to since though this one is externally okay...can see good amount of bowing out from inside the bed. What I MIGHT do since I have another tailgate that came with the SAR Caddy I might let him have it if it's straight (haven't checked it yet...still sitting in the SAR bed). Hell...he has an IH Scout I'm interested in that I MIGHT be able to work a deal on between cash and possibly some VW spares.

Without further ado....
Currently parked at a friends about 10mi away where I can tend to the more immediate needs w/o interference. And NOOOOO I didn't tow it here with another VW...that faded red truck in front is an oldie Toyota.

Figured since I'd be looking at close to 700$ or bit over just for the glass + install in the SAR Caddy not counting having to go through a bonded title process...that the now 900 paid for THIS one even's things out or better. This one comes with an Oregon title that just needs changing over.
It also seems I have a running trend with these things....not counting the SAR Caddy where the catches for both doors need adjusting BADLY...the remaining 2 which have become 3...their passenger doors (front in case of the Snowball) can only be opened from the inside. Snowball's CAN but is stiff as hell and even the REAR door is a pain. This Caddy's pass window is stuck in the down position since I suspect the regulator has given up but I know where I can get a replacement.

Those little triangles seen below the liftgate are cheapo HarborFreight 3-mode hand lights (red outer - white inner - FLASHING RED OUTER) since the tow lights seen on top I couldn't get them to work proper so were just there as attention getters while the HF lights did the flashing job.
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That happens when they get under your skin.
Changed starter...cranks faster now but still no cigar. Can hear pistons moving but they only make that hollow thumping noise as engine breathes. Pulled #4 GP and held thumb over it while cranking by jumping starter. Could barely feel any compression buildup. Held hand over intake cover...the early centered oval type...couldn't feel any suction. Tomorrow going to bring a compression tester and pull the injectors and do a wet test.
Tomorrow going to bring a compression tester and pull the injectors and do a wet test.

I would be soaking the rings with some penetrating oil or atf and brakefluid combo. The rings might just be stuck but if you have already cranked on it some it might not work as well as if you had not.
Isn't the first attempt at starting it. When it was still parked at the tow yard is where I tried it the first time with the slow cranking starter. Could count the cam sprocket revs if had bothered to look.
Compression is clearly L O W for some reason since never once got it to even catch even with Canned Coercion (Starting Fluid). Will know more tomorrow. Will try wet test...might just do it with ATF since it would have a SLIGHTLY easier time getting into the cylinder form the pre-chamber than motor oil will.

If not for the fact that the body condition is strongly in it's favor...kinda regret buying it now since the other Caddy here RUNS...just needs a HELLUVA lot of assembly + glass (which alone would cost most of what I paid for this one whole).
Pulled injectors and gave hefty dosing of Wal-Mart's Super Tech brand of pen spray...then about a cup worth of ATF between all cylinders. Tomorrow will have test gauge. Will pull injector's again and STAND CLEAR!!!
What I MIGHT end up doing if turns out compression is truly shot...MIGHT just go and pull the pistons and re-ring as long as the tolerances aren't beyond the degree of "shot" that my 84 DD has.
The verdict is out. Engine is shot to ****. Had added the ATF//pen oil day before yesterday. Just came back from it not 45 min ago. Pulled all 4 injectors. Started with #4 with compression tester. Let it crank for few seconds...not even a twitch. Not even a puff of air when released pressure. D/C'd tester and added oil through the adapter nipple. Crank again and once more not a twitch but DID get a little puff out of the release. Cyl #3 same thing...same thing. Only did dry test on #2. By this time I didn't even bother with #1.

On gauge the increments after 0 starts with 60 (just above needle rest) then 80...100...etc. Seems I'm looking at completely collapsed rings. Am wondering if THIS engine had suffered from an episode of a good ole runaway...burning up the oil and cooking the rings. Come to think of it seems to crank a bit slower than either the 84 or 81 LS do when had to bleed them so slower crank speed might be bearing drag?

Was thinking of possibly just pulling pistons and put new rings. But if the bearings are scored would need new rods...still have a set of new mains that never used in the 84. Might be better off with my original plan...a Pull N' Drop with one of my spares. Just need to check back with the guy I bought the SAR Caddy from along with the load o spares to clarify a few things. The engine in question has an aftermarket head but pan still filled with the liquid soot that diesel oil quickly becomes.

Will be ordering a clutch and while waiting for it will probably pull the head on THIS engine to get at least some idea of what's going on.

EDIT: Just need to know where the attachment points are for pulling n dropping the engine//trans assembly.
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Okay new clutch just arrived. Also have a new rear main seal from AutoZone that I should have ordered at same time as clutch but forgot to. Now I can get the replacement engine ready WHICH BY THE WAY needs a flywheel put on. I have another buried with everything else but there is a Giesel or is it Das(? and no you're not misreading and that's not a typo) since it's a gas block w/ diesel guts...flywheel should be the same. Otherwise just need to get the belt pulleys properly lined back up since the belt was only on loose and so the engine binds up (only cranked by hand so far). Be lot of trial and error.

Now to double check...JUST IN CASE a Pull N Drop is unnecessary...can these engines still crank safely if the CAM is ONE TOOTH off? I know if the crank is 1 tooth it means binding at best or catastrophe at worst. Only other thing would be attachment points for when the yanking begins. Can't be just that eyelet of an ear on the top corner of the head...would be unbalanced.
If either the Cam or the Crank is one tooth off CA-CA will occur.
As when the engine is running either may strike.

After you get the timing spot on with the Cam lock in place, and the number one lobes all the way up.
You then make sure that the Crank is at 0tdc on the flywheel.
The Ip is locked into place with a bolt or pin,,, I always had a bolt.

Rotate the Crank fully with no binds (easier to do if the glows are out). If there is a Bind do not force it back it off reset your time.
You will get used to the Diesel Dance, that is move crank move cam move crank until you get it back in time.
Okay just wanted to be sure. I remembered 1 was bad for certain. The spare engine is only binding since belt was loose as mentioned. Since it will be going in place which btw as it sits is strictly a long block + IP plumbed in but minus the flywheel. Getting everything lined back up should be easy...just at tad tedious. Fully plan on pinning the IP and working the cam//crank alternately until I can install the lock plate...tension the belt then try turning it over. Getting the FW bolted up correctly should be FAIRLY simple once cam//crank back in proper time...just make sure the TDC marker is pointed up.
I can remember doing my fist belt and tensioner on my diesel, I was Scared stiff, I had a bind, and well learned the diesel dance. I think now on it and well I started buy setting it in time prior but still things move. Also I would pin the IP allow it to move as you can reset it.

After I had a new belt shred on me @ 130K miles and blowing the piston into the valves...I swapped engines with another that had 145k on it the issue that he had was it blew head gaskets every year. Well I got really really good at swapping gaskets and re-timing it over the next 180K. If I had known about the weakness in the bolts and the availability of the ARP stud kit I would of used the Studs. But that was after I sold it as none of my kids wanted to Drive it too smelly and noisy....:)
But that was after I sold it as none of my kids wanted to Drive it too smelly and noisy....

Funny how kids are so different from us, yet so much the same as they get older. It was my high school aged son that introduced the family here to the VW diesel Rabbit. I don't even know where he got it now. But it was a four door, 1.6 5 spd and was perfect for his hauling of buddies around. They would all kick in a few bucks for "gas" and my son could drive on that much money for a month.

He converted it to run on waste veggie oil and that in turn produced a build of a different sort next to the shed in the backyard. After he moved away I dismantled that storage and processing plant but it still took years to get rid of the smell.

When I needed a commuter car later in life my son still had his but was unwilling to let me have it. So I bought my own and converted it as well. But I didn't blink buying my oil from someone who had the setup in his shed. It was just sooo much cleaner to fill cubies and go.

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The replacement engine is certainly being a pain. Have cam lock plate in place and IP pinned...whether or not it is in time or 180 off doesn't matter just yet. Started off guessing then tried 1-tooth at a time at the crank but still getting binding. Since I'm using the previous used belt from the 84 which has alignment marks made with a paint marker (2 marks at cam...1 at pump...then another at crank) I've been able to narrow the window down to within a few teeth.

Ended up pulling the V-belt crank pulley on the 84 to see if the timing belt mark was still legible. It is but barely. When I did the markings I had the cam marked on the top and IP somewhere near the side and the crank near bottom. Didn't notice before but this puts the little alignment dimple that the pulley lines up with where it points almost straight up. UNFORTUNATELY did't think to count the teeth between that dimple and the remains of the paint mark on timing sprocket before I put it back together. Ran out of light some time ago so might just pull the pulley back off tomorrow...count the teeth...then go back to that spare engine.

Have found a bit of a conundrum with it though. It is the 1.6...but must be an early once since the HBs aren't the 12mm triple square nor are they the 10mm hex the 81 came with.
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Well one engine I had the original was 12mm TS the other was 12mmHex, as the head had been off before, so I suspect they went with Allen headed bolts.
Will double check tomorrow but was certain even the 12mm hex didn't fit. I know the early 1.6 some used the hex head but I think the ones the 4-door had were 10mm.
Well...since it's only the TS bolts that are Torque To Yield afaik then after a run just need to make sure they're still torqued.
Will double check tomorrow but was certain even the 12mm hex didn't fit. I know the early 1.6 some used the hex head but I think the ones the 4-door had were 10mm.
Well...since it's only the TS bolts that are Torque To Yield afaik then after a run just need to make sure they're still torqued.
Both of my 81's were 12MM hex Both 4dr, and or allen, there is the 11mm ones that are the bane.
The 4-door had the 10mm socket headed 11mm bolts. Those got replaced with 12mm TS head 11mm that got cut down so I could use up as much available space in the block as I thought I could get away with.
Double checked the heads on the block I'm fighting...they ARE the 10mm socket heads. Since I had the drivers still attached to the HF strip they go on I failed to realize the one for the 10mm was missing and sitting loose in the toolbox. What I thought I was putting in as a 10 was really the 8.

Since the hex-head bolts on the 84 that replaced the PITA socket heads on the crank pulley are hard to get off...clearance between bolt head and crank center bolt requires beating socket on with a hammer...going to end up doing another EXTREMELY tedious route. I have an approximation of where that little stud pokes so what will happen is I'm going to make marks on the cam//IP to line up with the ones on the belt (which I should've done from the very start) so I'm CONSISTENT every time I have to reset. Then make one on the crank to match the one on the belt so I have an indicator so I can actually see which direction I need to go...1 tooth at a time.
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Well...since it's only the TS bolts that are Torque To Yield afaik then after a run just need to make sure they're still torqued.
Not so, Once you get about 1,000 miles on it you still need to check to see if they are at their proper torque. Loosen them according to pattern and then re set them to proper amount. Many folks don't do this and they are surprised that their time and money is gone in just a few thousand miles. Mostly because they run it hard thinking, I have a new HG what could possibly go wrong?

Then the overheating, swelling of radiator hoses, oil consumption and all the other things start happening. Give that engine another hour of your time after running it for a thousand miles and you will be much better off for it.
Once I get that far. STILL on the task of trying to get it timed. Let alone even having the other one yanked yet. When I think it's finally lined up for test will bind. Only got to work on it briefly today as something else came up after. Back to work on it tomorrow.
FINALLY! After spending about 6 hours over the last two days of tedious trial and error I decided to follow through with what I read on another post from one of the VW diesel sites. Pulled #1 injector (though 4 would've also worked since 1 & 4 reach TDC at same time) and backing out the GP so it wouldn't be an obstruction and using a piece of baling wire with the end curled a tad to get through the pre-chamber orifice was able to find TDC. After a little back and forth got it to stop just before that feeling where the piston would want to start going back down. Got the belt back on and test cranked. Before it would bind up (using the raised dimple as reference) at around 2 o'clock...well it passed that point with no trouble.
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