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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I am hoping something similar has happened to someone else & you can tell me what it is because I have wasted nearly $2000 only for mechanics to swear they couldn’t find a problem. I am loosing my mind wasting $$ and having mechanics look at me like I’m crazy & that there is nothing wrong. I’m to scared to go on a long drive from home & worry that every drive might not make it home. Can’t keep getting tow trucks. Need help.

Most of the time the car is wonderful, drives like a dream. It is my first V6 and I personally was expecting more from a V6 so I suspect possibly not running at full power?

No scan codes most of the time but randomly (can’t find a pattern that leads to it) the car will splutter and chug and when I put accelerator flat to floor nothing happens & it konks out. Usually results in me needing a tow truck but then a couple days later it’s working fine again.

It randomly spits out codes but then they go away nothing worth mentioning - cam shaft and crank shaft sensors, lean idle right bank, mis fire, etc. Brought new cam/crank sensors but didn’t help.

Have done a manual/visual vacuum test & replaced a deteriorated hose but no luck. Think maybe a proper full vacuum test should be done? it was suggested it could be O2 voltage but did live scan & only 2 option were avail for the O2 but I have 3 wires so wondering if that is the problem? But the live data showed readings within range but despite this the chart constantly peaked and troughs which is apparently not correct?

The MAF g/s test was interesting though. For majority of the time it was within range (<10) but throughout the drive it would do random spikes between 30-74 which is apparently crazy high & not good.

Have cleaned the MAF but it didn’t help.

Yesterday when it decided to have one of its moments and not want to do anything when I would accelerate besides backfire a little bit, I happen to still have my code scanner still plugged in so was able to do some live reads and throughout the whole episode of it playing up the voltage of the O2 sensors was zero and I was reading the fuel trim short B1 and fuel trim long B2 and both were reading zero. Once the episode was over (less than 5mins) and the car was running normal again the two fuel trims were reading their normal 25% and -4% correction. Hopefully this means something to someone??

Someone suggested to look at the wiring under the mat of the passenger side? Is this an option & exactly what would I be looking for?
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